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Disregard, I missed the NA in front of the 3.5.

Just curious if anyone knew of any other seats that might swap into the 5th gen. Dont care about wiring/airbags or any of that, as those issues are easily resolved. Looking more for direct bolt in as the requirement? Specifically the front seats. F150s? Mustangs? Focus? Edge? Etc. Hell...

I hope it doesnt rust away. My old Escalade EXT lived part of its life in wisconsin, and even with weekly washes including undercarraige, the salt at right through several body panels. Here is my '16

Oh interesting. It looks like you were able to keep your full size spare with those seats. Nice PIU, i have the same color in a '16 EB. We are a rare breed apparently since only 4% of the PIUs made were EB models. Edit: Oh MAN, you have a CTS-V wagon?!?!? Current obtainable dream car right...

Whats weird is that this only applies to 3.7L PIUs and not 3.5L ecoboosts and its related to a cat issue. Wonder if EB has a different cat or the higher exhaust temps help negate it. I wouldnt mind smoother shifting with my transmission but my EB isnt listed for this...

Would love to see pics of your seats :)

Just a follow-up to this. My 2016 PIU has 93k miles and 2500 idle hours, which "equates" to about an additional 82k miles by ford's formula (1 idle hour = ~33 miles). It was built late 2015, and had a single gasket pump from the factory surprisingly. The the rubber gasket was starting to fall...

True enough, but same with any part change. Its a PIU with 92k and many idle hours. The tensioner was already 5-6 notches out, which is right around the point it starts generating CELs. Still worth it to me.

I am pre-emptively doing this job at 92k. Timing chain, tensioners, water pump, etc. Might as well for peace of mind not to worry about it for another 100k.

Ford makes dummy plugs for that airbag light for like... GTXXX mustangs or Shelbys or one of those sportier versions, I believe. You can wire them up with the proper resistance easy enough. Not sure what that is for explorers, but here is a link detailing how others are doing it in the Focus...

You may be able to accomplish some of this with Forscan and a good bluetooth or wired OBDII connector like the OBDLink MX. I changed a myriad of things like unlocking rears/hatch with fob. I believe mine autolocks as well currently, so may be able to find that setting in Forscan.

There are threads about 2011-2015 models. Nothing about the 16-19 style (slightly different) ones unfortunately with adding a roof rack, only removing. I'm hesitant to be a guinea pig, since i know the replacement part is expensive. Might need to go find a wrecked 16-19 PIU somewhere, but also...

So, along with weather, I ran into a snag. It appears the rubber strips are a long single piece. My hope is that the roof rail mounting spots are under there, but I have a sinking feeling the interceptor molding will be ruined in the process of checking if thats true (assuming its held in by...

Not an issue on my car, but yeah, i would gather they wouldnt work well with a heater.

They are liquid resistant... so my guess would be no on breathable. That said, do they need to be breathable for thermal conduction to occur? Or do the seat heaters need to be able to bleed off heat for reliability/fire hazard purposes?

Which sync are you going for? My 2016 has Sync 1 if you need any forscan settings from it. If you are doing sync 2/3, not going to be much help there I dont think.

I grabbed a set of neoprene ones from Costco for like $20 for the pair. They match well and I like em. https://www.costco.com/wetsuit-seat-cover-pair-with-dri-lock-water-repellent-technology.product.100403694.html

Does it go with the speed of the car? It would likely be wheel/driveline related (wheel bearings, PTU, RDU, etc) Does it go with the speed of the engine? It would like be internal/external engine related (belts, pulleys, or worse). Does it happen above 50-55mph only? Its likely the seal at the...

Sure it is. I spent 1/5th price, didn't give K&N money for their overpriced parts, reduced waste, and have a better intake IMO.

I think no matter what,the channel trim has to be removed since the rails are two pieces: the bottom piece that runs along(and in, I believe) the channel, and gets bolted in, and the long cap that sits over that base piece that hides the mounting spots.

Hosting should be fixed now.

Weird, they all show up for me, and they are all hosted on this site? If they aren't working by tomorrow AM, I'll re-host tomorrow on imgur.

Part 2: Now the real fun part. Since the intake will be crossing over some of the wire harness, I added some additional protection to those sections of wire. Granted, this isn't really necessary, the intake didn't really touch these cables and they have wire loom on them, but I am always for...

Greetings! I am big into the "reuse" aspect of "reduce reuse recycle". As such, I always try to look ways to re-purpose old items that still have life in them. With that in mind, I set out to build an intake for my 5th gen that didn't cost a fortune, and hopefully might help some of you save...

Not too worried about that. Just planning on a cargo box for camping chairs/tents/etc.