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@rmkilc how did your solution hold up?

its a car that I work on, I have not done any further fixes to this issue, tires are rubbing, and client is not complaining. Plenty of other things to fix on this Ford, so no resolution here.

yes, those are anchor bosses, and must have sealant on them as well. Otherwise you may get oil leak from under those mounting bolts

Very cool rmkilc. I hope the material holds up. I too would be willing to order from you. Minor note, on the car I worked on, that split plastic washer under the stopper was broken in two.

The car I am working on is 2016 Sport model as well, 20" tires. Maybe its something particular about tires on the car. They are pretty new I definitely see rubbing marks, so much so, that wheel well is already rubbed through in one spot against the body. Don't have a lathe, and as you correctly...

Good find, but of course there are questions. What material is this made of and what are its dimensions? Will it stay put, either in recess of the rack or at the edge of the steering arm? There is no way to affix it, just relying on pressure fit. Remember passenger side is a cork screw design...

read through this post and look at the pics. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/popping-grinding-in-steering-when-turning.444310/post-3805517 Without the stoppers, the tires rub on lower control arms and wheel well fenders. At least it happens on this car, I think it has 20 inch stock...

That's a good question. The stoppers could definitely stand to have larger surface area. The one surviving stopper did have impression around the inner diameter where it hits the inner portion of the rack, but its not a deal breaker. I don't think it would make a difference if you used a single...

So I come back here, somewhat humbled. I was so excited about my fix and was sure it would last. Car came back for routine work and while at it, I decided to inspect my handy work with steering rack stoppers. To my dismay I found passenger side to have one semi intact stopper and one completely...

Lol, fellow Cheshirite here. Congrats!

Autel Maxisys 906ts

I would highly recommend to not just ignore it. This is most definitely a safety issue. Piece of that washer can get wedged between the steering arm and the outer housing, rendering you unable to turn. Right (passenger side is especially bad, because of the shape of the arm.

I have the special tool, but its of no use here, because there is no space to use it. I used zipties, get it nice and tight and its as good as factory. As a matter of fact, because I had to do the job twice, the original zipties I put on held perfect. Yes, given the perfect world, I would have...

Hey guys, did not see any repair threads on this error, so decided to share the knowledge. If you have airbag light on and have either B141B (driver side) or B141C (passenger side) codes, issues with second row inflatable seat belts codes, don't despair. This is actually a pretty simple repair...

As promised, coming back here with resolution. Hold my beer. Here are the parts I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/1979-2004-Mustang-Steering-Limiter-Spacers/dp/B01N1P0T20/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Limiter+Stop+Spacers&qid=1573233017&s=automotive&sr=1-1 Worked like a charm. I first installed one...

worked on 2016 EcoTech 3.5L turbo explorer, same engine design. I was under the car and could just barely made out the weep hole behind the alternator. The picture I posted is a very good reference.

Found this picture, not sure if it will help you much, but it shows location of the weep hole.

I never removed alternator, so I never actually observed the weep hole in action. That said, look at the attached pics for the passage direction. I believe RobinsonAuto Ford Edge 3.5L videos showed the weep hole or maybe its my imagination. Either way, if you look at the pictures I posted before...

Just to bring my story to conclusion. The job was finished. I spent a grant total of 25 hours to complete the task. I am sure second time around I would be quicker, but I doubt I will get to do this again. To add to list of essential tasks, after I installed the new waterpump, I temporarily...

I threw away the old parts, right before it dawned on me what they were. I will be following up with the repair, so this time, I will measure things up and provide resolution.

No I did not. I don't own a Ford, and by the looks of it, not planning on any time soon. This thread came up when I was looking for details on performing water pump replacement, so this is just paying it back to the forum and for people who actually want to accomplish this themselves.

Here are pictures of what the leak looked like when I got the car '

Not my car, so not sure when it started to leak. Dealer apparently saw the leak and informed the customer. I want to say current mileage is around 170k miles. But, like I mentioned earlier, my neighbor friend lost an engine on 2012 Mazda CX9, with around 135k on the odometer. If you look...

So, let me put into prospective. For a dealer who has all the right equipment, AC charge machine, hydraulic table to drop the subframe, etc... It "maybe" quicker to drop the engine. But it requires so many other items to be disconnected: exhaust, axles, etc. I am an advance diyer, doing this in...

I have done over 20 of Honda J engines (current running series of V6 Honda/Acura engines for the last 15 or so years. This job is very mechanical in nature, nothing super ordinary. Plenty of room once you get all the components out. More room to work than Honda. The only reason to take the...