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We had those tests here in FL a while back. I failed a few, older car, until I learned that changing the oil a day or so before the test was all I needed to do to pass the test. You say you changed plugs and wires but I learned that many wires out of the box won't pass a resistance test as in a...

OK, well some good stuff already suggested. But for me it has always been do the simple stuff first. Clean the battery terminals, new trick- I now use a piece of window screen in lieu of sand paper but a brush will do. A light coating of NOALOX, this is an electrical conductive lubricant and...

Steve, have you tried a box wrench with a screw driver bit, I assume cross tip? Might have to tape the driver tip into the box end of the wrench. You should be able to get into the tight place with that arrangement but if you need more upward thrust to say break the screw free an appropriately...

A test light in series with the nine volt battery will limit the current flow. You can make your own or purchase one, most any 12V bulb will work for starters. Various voltage and wattage bulbs will give different results but they can give a visual indication of a complete circuit and act as a...

Have thought of trying a salvage yard for a used alternator?

Do the simple inexpensive testing first and proceed from there. Water in the cylinder will rust the liner every night and add to your problems like water in the oil so the longer you wait the worse it will likely get. Magnaflux or dye penetration testing of any used head to test for cracks...

Sorry for your troubles, hydrostatic lock in any engine can produce extensive damage. Collapsed pistons, blown head gaskets, lifted injectors, bent or broken crank shafts and as you have discovered bent connecting rods among the other things that can go wrong. This is why on large engines it is...

That is why those little caps are so important, it is not uncommon for valves to leak. The same is true of tires.

Make sure the electrical contacts at the sensor are free of dirt and corrosion. Poor contact will change the electrical values and mess with the readings.

Yes the evaporator does have a drain, it is pretty much straight down from the firewall. Check for leaves and trash. Water that gets in near the passenger wiper should flow through this drain. As to the other problem, the air damper is a known issue with that year. You can check the forums for...

The MSN Groups service has closed As we first announced on October 23 2008, the MSN Groups service has closed.

I think a lot has to do with what medium you feel comfortable working with and can afford to pay for be it belt drive, electric, hydraulic or even run off your oil pump. Basically if you design it right it will work. Ah can you have fun doing it? Yes of course even if you ran it off steam. Ok do...

My first guess is it is running lean when it is cold. Like marragtop said pull the codes for some ideas of things to check for like a vacuum leak.

Check the brake fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir, it is probably low. Refill it and the light will likely go out as I bet it does after you have driven for a while.

Ok so you are this far along and I will assume you have a digital volt meter 14.5 VDC with the engine running. Yes hydrometers work and I used them for years before the digital meter was invented but I learned the if you take a charged battery and turn the engine over for fifteen seconds (or use...

Won't the 180 thermostats burn out the cats among other things due to the low temps and the computer conflicts? That has been my understanding since you would essentially be dumping a lot of extra fuel.

Do a search for this thread (Fuel pump inertia switch) it has a good picture, DeRocha and 410Fortune give great explanations of it's operation and testing.

I got 21 gallons in mine once after running it about another mile after it said 0 miles to empty. I get 18 to 19 in mixed driving and not head winds but stop and go with short trips or lots of traffic jams can really kill it. I also try to keep the RPM's below 2K. Oh and I do not use the A/C if...

Welcome to the site. Maniak did a nice job of covering the bases. The things that can really help when answering your questions are the details about how many miles, what kind of oil/weight, do you hear any sounds like piston slap or light tapping of any kind and anything else you can include.

I kept the ends sealed with tape when I changed out the accumulator then I did a slight purge and thus was able to avoid the system evacuation. A charge of oil is also advised since much of it escapes with the refrigerant.

I am going to assume you are referring to a Ford spring connection. If that is the case I was able to split a piece of PVC pipe lengthwise, put a slight bevel on it and that allowed me to expand the spring so I could slide the fitting out. I think this is the same kind of fitting used on the...

Power distribution box http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156872 You may have to search around on the AutoZone site. http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroke...23d800ba8f3.jsp

Don't just throw parts at it and hope you guessed the right one. There is enough information on this site, do a search on O2 sensors, to know if your $85 X 4 O2 sensor is good or bad even if you have to purchase a scanner to get there. Like Aldive said they do not fail very often.

Well at least you found it, I bet it was a PITA to get out.

The battery splitter/isolator is definitely the way to go if you are using more than one battery. The safety side alone would warrant it so you do not kill your starting battery. a larger alternator may help, even a lot, but wire size and proper grounding (a dedicated copper ground) is also very...