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When I replaced mine, I found a rebuilt viscous coupler, but can't find where it came from.

The left rear window motor in my 05 Mount would work intermittently. If I had the door panel off and whacked the motor housing, it would start working again for awhile. So I decided to replace it. It wasn't too bad of a job. Start by taping the window in the up position. Remove the door panel...

Just fixed this same problem on my '05. It was a faulty button (switch). About $25 from the dealer. Easy to replace, remove the connector from the back, and squeeze the 2 tabs that hold the switch in. Slide the switch out towards the door and reverse to replace. It makes it a little easier to...

Well I just finished this so I thought I would write up a little blub. First off, thanks to rrgone for offering illustrations which helped a lot. It's not that hard of a job, just hard to see what going on. You'll need a T-27 torx bit. Begin by removing the door panel and plastic sheet. Unplug...

I have an 05 Mountaineer that I need to replace the rear driver's side power door lock actuator. But I can't see how to get it out of there. Any help?

Just did this on my '05 2WD. I used the fitting into the drain plug with the quart hand pump. Couple of things. What a freaking mess !! After draining, pan still had a lot of fluid in it which I promptly spilled every bit of. Filter had fluid in it which again I spilled. Trans continued to leak...

Works on my 97 Mountaineer with JBL. The display shows "SPKR" then "RF", "LF", etc as the sound is sent to the corresponding speaker and sub. Also works on my 05 Mountaineer with standard radio.

My bud has the ED and he told me he had to massage the enclosure a little bit. I know the JL was also too deep (they have the same mounting depth). I bought a JL and spent a few minutes with a dremel to cut back the plastic support in the enclosure that supports the backside of the speaker (the...

JL Audio makes a nice 6.5". the 6W0-4: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=23 Elemental designs makes an even better one, 7Kv.2 (EU-700): http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=33

Ooops. Well it did, now it's fixed. Sorry, that should be '97. I just checked the rear axle, and yes, there is a connector above the pinion with a wiring harness attached to it. The old t-case also has a connector with a harness attached to it. So I guess I'm good to go.

Mine's a 97. Not sure what year the new one is. But the new one does have a speed sensor on it.

I have acquired a used AWD transfer case from another vehicle. I have no idea what axle ratio was in that vehicle. Do I need to swap my speedometer sensor and/or speedo gear to keep the speedo reading the same with my gear ratio? TIA.

JL Audio makes a nice 6.5". the 6W0-4: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=23 Elemental designs makes an even better one, 7Kv.2 (EU-700): http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?t=0&products_id=33

I'm interested in a minimal work, low-effort solution. X6, how many miles on your tc? Any issues with it? How much will you ask for it?

Will this nightmare never end? Just went through the whole ordeal of pulling the transfer case on my '97 AWD to replace the viscous coupler. I purchased a rebuilt coupler through Tranfer Case Express for $210 plus shipping. Got it back in this weekend and it's doing the same thing. Arggh. It...

Just went through this on my 97 AWD. It was easiest for me to just remove the center console, pull back the front carpet, then remove the access panel that was bolted to the floor. I was able to get to the top 2 bolts as well as the passenger side bolt (with a swivel, socket, and extension). HTH.

Yes !! You can order dual 2 or dual 4 ohm voice coils. I would suggest the dual 2, then wire them in series to get 4 ohms. This will match the factory spec. But you could get the dual 4, wire them in parallel to get 2 ohms; this will give you more sound but I'm not sure how well the factory amp...

This is a very good one from elemental designs: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?t=0&products_id=33 Also, the JL Audio 6.5 is a good one too. HTH.

Thanks !

Where are those located?

Yes, the CV joint (next to the T case) on the front DS has been replaced.

In my original post I stated that I have replaced the frt u-joint as well as the frt CV joint with new ones and that hasn't helped.

I have a 97 Mountaineer with 5.0 and AWD. With the front driveshaft in, it makes a clunking or popping noise on accelereation. It's not exactly periodic, but somewhat random. With very light acceleration, it's very light or non-existant. It's worse with more gas pedal pressure. On coasting it's...

After doing some research here to find a suitable adapter for my XM radio without using the FM modulator, I came across a company that makes peripheral interface adapters. Peripheral Electronics (PIE) http://peripheralelectronics.com/web/home.asp makes a plug-and-play adapter that will...

Here is what you need. These guys make the interface adapter: http://peripheralelectronics.com/web/aux2car.asp And is available here: http://www.soundoffaudio.com/items.cfm/cat1/Car%20Audio/cat2/OEM%20INTERFACES or here: http://www.xmfanstore.com/showproduct.php?id=pieoem