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That throttle plate adjustment screw is basically used to keep the throttle plate from binding at the idle position. The throttle plate should be fully closed at idle to let the by-pass Idle Air Control valve control the idle. You could also have a problem with that by-pass IAC valve. It can...

I like the idea of a mod that can be readily undone. One problem that could arise with the zip tie method is, the switch is not designed to be compressed all the time. The spring could eventually take a set and not work as intended, if wanted to work again. Not a big deal though. The switch...

This is interesting. American rangers after mid 2000 don't have hubs that can be disengaged. The disconnect to the front drive is at the transfer case. I am not aware of any easy way to engage low range without having front drive engaged. Our Rangers after 2000 would have to remove the...

That is what he should have said. I don't know if this is important to you but 03 models got thicker windows and possibly some other minor changes to reduce noise. If you go with an earlier cab you will not have this "upgrade".

The timing chain issues were pretty much resolved by 05. The worst ones were in 01 and improved for 02 but some still had problems. I have 190K miles on my 02 Ranger 4.0 SOHC and so far no timing chain guide problems. The only thing other than normal maintenance items that I had to do to it...

I went with 33x10.5" tires. If I would have gone with the 12.5" wide tires, I would have needed the body lift.

Hi Ted, I was going to do this when I put 33" tires on my Ranger. However, I found out I only had to bend the mud flap brackets a little to get clearance at full turn. I have been in some pretty rough stuff with quite a bit of articulation with no rubbing. I guess I got lucky. I did raise...

I had an 89 Ranger do this many years ago. I bought a new sending unit and found while changing it that the connector was kind of loose. After installing the new sending unit the gauge still fluctuated. I then crimped the connector a little to get a better fit. That solved the problem...

I would start with trying to lubricate it. I like to use a light oil.

The blower fuse should be under the hood on the driver side near the firewall. It is number 16 and should be a 40 amp large fuse.

I think with a diesel, you would want to run taller gears. A diesel typically has more torque and can handle the taller gears compared to a similar displacement gasoline engine. You are right, diesels normally don't rev very high and 4.10 gears would be pretty slow unless you run some tall...

If your Ranger is 4WD, 31x10.5-15 tires should fit fine if your wheels have the correct back spacing. My 02 came from the factory with 31x10.5-15 tires. They were on 15x7 wheels but a 1" wider wheel should not make that much difference if the backspacing is correct. If you have a 2WD...

If you can feel it through your steering wheel even when you are not moving, I suspect the power steering may be the source of the vibration. That is unless you have something contacting the steering shaft that could be transferring the vibration. If you can feel it through the whole truck...

The fuel pump comes on only a second or tow when the ignition is placed in the run position. If the engine is started the fuel pump will continue to run. If you are having a hard time starting it, the check valve in the fuel pump may be bad. It should hold pressure when you shut the engine...

Looks like you need to use a VOM and trace the electrical wiring back from the fuel until you find power. Just remember the power is only switched on for a couple seconds when the ignition is turned on. Make sure the ground to the fuel pump is good first.

Did you cycle the ignition switch many times to prime the fuel pump?

The only Ranger 8.8" differentials with 31 spline axles are the 03+ FX4 Level II and the 02 FX4. I think some of the later models (around 2010) could order the 31 spline as an option. The 31 spline was not available in 98 so you should have a 28 spline axle.

I doubt it has anything to do with your locking hubs. Those electric shift systems are prone to problems. Some of the potential areas have already been mentioned but there are other items that can fail to like the shift control module. I think the shift motor is the likely source of the problem.

I wouldn't pay much attention to the soft pedal if the clutch is disengaging when you push in on the clutch pedal and the clutch is not slipping when you drive it. Many times a new clutch will be softer than a worn out clutch. If you didn't replace the master cylinder and didn't run the fluid...

I suggest you check with http://www.network54.com/Forum/260730/. There are some pretty knowledgeable guys there on Ford transmissions that may be able to help you.

I replaced mine recently and they are definitely not the same. I should mention that nothing was wrong with my sensors. The O-rings had deteriorated and were leaking. I could not find the correct size O-ring so I had to buy new sensors. That is pretty costly for an O-ring replacement.

You can probably get by with doing just one. If I were doing it, I would do all four. The brake fluid should be bled (flushed) periodically anyway. This is a good excuse to do it. If you bleed one line and the pedal feels good, you should be good to go.

The Ranger A/C engages in all control positions except dash level only and floor only. Even the combined dash and floor levels engages the A/C. This is used to control moisture in the cabin air to help prevent fogging the windows.

It doesn't look like any bleeder I have ever seen. Then again, I know very little about RABS except how to change a control module and that was so long ago that I forgot most of that.

I am somewhat confused. You say it is stuck in gear with the engine running. If the engine is running with it stuck in gear, the vehicle would be moving. Are you saying the shifter lever is stuck in the first gear position but possibly the transmission is in neutral? If that is the case...