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I use my library card to access our county library reference section. There are auto repair manuals there. It's not Alldata, but I actually prefer the wiring diagrams shown there over Alldata's diagrams. Just my preference. Otherwise, maybe a moderator can move this thread to the 1995-2001...

My 94 Explorer must be wired differently. The wiring diagram I have shows just two wires going to the starter. One (red) battery cable coming directly from the battery, and one smaller wire coming from the relay mounded on the fender. When the start signal comes from the key switch through the...

My experience with my 94 is the same, except the problem wasn't electrical. The seat belt was binding and not allowing the seat to move back, only forward. Have someone get behind the seat and hold the right hand side seat belt (short harness) out of the way as the you apply the switch. (I think...

Pump is bad. If you want to confirm that before spending dollars, you can "rent" a tester from some auto parts stores, then return it for a full refund (Autozone, O'reilly's, etc). Below is a link on how to use it...

I'm cheap, so I cut the access panel in the floor under the seat as described elsewhere in the forum (so I wouldn't have to drop the tank), removed the sender/pump assembly, removed the float (It's just clipped on), slowly drilled a small hole in the float (hey, it's brass - no sparks), shook...

My 92 had a factory bench seat. It was something like a 40/60 seat with a fold down armrest. I know the original owner (dad) had to special order it that way when he bought it. As I recall, he had to wait awhile to have the vehicle delivered because of it, but he lived in a small town. With all...

I just repaired a sunk float on my 94. I thought about dropping the tank, but finally decided to try the "access panel" method found here in the forum. I think it was well worth the effort, and the carpet and rear seat hide the new access panel completely. There's a great write-up with...

If you're confident the switch is ok, then this will sound weird, but I'd check your battery cables (which are hard to see). My 92 had a cable that had rubbed through the insulation on the frame, and it did all sorts of weird things. Mostly, I could crank the starter ok, but it would never...

I'm afraid FR-425 is right. Here's what I'd do to verify... In the left frame rail right next to the spare tire, kind-of around behind (left and forward of) the left rear shock, there's a connector you'd have to undo to remove the pump. (The pump has a pigtail of about 15 inches). Anyway...

OOPS, Yes, I wasn't thinking. You'll blow your wheel cylinders out. The idea was to try to apply the brakes to see if the springs return normally. Just the parking brake can do that.

When you say the fuel pump is functioning, is that because you can hear it, or have you actually hooked up a pressure tester and driven it to monitor the pressure? Pressure can (and will) fall when driving if the pump is marginal. However, I've also read where the MAF can be on the edge of...

For the rear brakes... Sometimes they grab if there's axle oil that has leaked by the seal. The axle oil will swell the brake shoes. But from what you said, your rear brakes are frozen after sitting for awhile, and not grabbing when you apply the brakes. Also you can remove the drum fairly...

I had a similar problem with a Ranger (same engine/tranny). It had no CEL and no KOEO or CM codes. KOER pointed to a TPS. You could do a simple resistance test (search the forum or go online). It's fast and easy, and you just might find a flat or dead spot on the sensor...

Jason nailed it. The valve that diverts the heat (for #4 ) is controlled by a vacuum switch. The switch is underneath the air filter cover. You'll see two vacuum lines for the switch going into the aft side of the cover. It's more or less a "good idea" that wasn't.

You could simply delete the EGR, but you'd have a CEL on all the time. The computer would be looking for a feedback signal after commanding the now removed EGR valve to open. If the feedback wasn't there, the PCM will set the light. The following link is pretty good for troubleshooting Ford...

In the thread posted above, when you get to the part about the bearing nut lock key, take special note. I'll just add that the key CAN come out fairly easily with a magnet, but you may have to unload (or twist) the lock nut one way or the other, so the key can slide out. It's very small, so...

I know what you mean about the sensor. I had a different problem (It ran good, but I had a CEL light with "lean" codes - ended up being the PCM). During my troubleshooting, I tried a new DPFE just because I couldn't really find a good way to test it like I could with the Valve or Vacuum Switch...

Hmmm, the only thing more I can suggest is that when I did mine, I never saw the hole. I did it by feel. As I remember, the key had to be in the "Run" position, insert the drill bit (at first I didn't think I could get the right angle, but with the L-shape of the vise grip and drill bit I could...

Those compression readings are way too low. I would guess a good reading should be at least 120 psi or more. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4 The good stuff is about 3 1/2 mins into the video

My 92 (R.I.P.) had it, my 94 has it too. Between the two of them, after changing U-joints, RA bushings, steering linkage, tires, ball joints, etc, I suspect it's just worn suspension parts (Bushings, springs, shackles). But it's just a guess.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197697 Scroll down to post #15 .

There IS access...it's just somewhat hidden. Here is a thread on the subject. It helped me a couple of weeks ago when I replaced my cylinder: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197697 Scroll down to post #15 to see the best pictures for locating where you need to be. The...

I think EGR was introduced in 93. My 94 has it, the 92 didn't. You're better off just replacing the bad parts than trying to modify what you have.

Sounds like the "Vacuum Accumulator". I'm not sure what Ford calls it. If that's what it is, it's a vacuum chamber that provides enough instant vacuum to move the actuators for your climate control system (Hot/Cold blend door, and Defrost/Floor, etc). Without it, I suspect those actuators would...

As I recall, mine was a VET1, but it could be Cali emissions.