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Well, to wrap up, the old mast is gone, the new one in. The old mast had no damage at all to the gear strip, or any of the other gears. The sleeve at the top was just completely worn out, and the mast just came up through it. Pulled the wheel, dropped the fender liner, disconnected the antenna...

Hmmm… What normally keeps the antenna from coming completely out of the fender? The lift motor certainly runs a long time trying to bring it up.

Hmmm… The nylon gear strip seems to be in perfect condition. The mast has escaped through the bushing at the top of the fender. I've had no trouble for 15 years, and this antenna gets cycled every time I drive, I never drive without the radio on. So, would replacing the mast do any good? Does...

97 power antenna, switched on the radio, the antenna came up, and just kept coming, up and out of the fender. Antenna seems OK, nylon gear strip not broken. Now what?

Looks like rust got my long rear brake line right at the beck end. Can't find pre-bent replacement, so I guess I'll have to make one. Before ripping it apart, are the steel lines SAE or metric? What size?

I makes the rear end smoother, by reducing sideways movement. If you saw no difference, it probably wasn't working. I replaced all five shocks a few years ago. I had no problem getting the axle damper. I used the Monroe.

Excellent!! Looks like that site will come in handy for other things, too.

I had to remove the left running board for paint repair, and I'll soon be ready to re-install it. However, several of the retaining clips on the top edge were damaged when removed, and they are not available separately from Ford. Is there any aftermarket clip that's suitable?

OK, got an answer. #1 is KH-202 or F77Z-18472JC #2 is KH-262 or F67Z-18472-BB #3 is KH-584 or F77Z-18472-KB (and had new clamps on it)

In the diagram you can't tell, but the straight horizontal part in the middle is twice as long on #1 as it is on #3. Still might work.

After a lot of searching, including the archives here, I can't find the Motorcraft number for the two hook-shaped hoses between the engine and the firewall on a 97 5.0. #1 and #3 in this image-

I repaired mine that way years ago. Seems to be working.

No, the oil drive shaft is supposed to have a collar on it to prevent it coming out, and the collar is supposed to be far enough up to prevent the shaft from coming out of the pump, but… It sounds like the sychro is coming up until that collar hits the block. Yikes. If you cannot persuade the...

Uh Oh. You will need to tap, wiggle, etc., the sych to get it out. You may have dropped the oil shaft when you pulled the old one out. Get the new one out, and take a look. If you're lucky, it's still there, only not inserted in the drive socket on the pump.

No, because you can see the crescent-shaped sensor flag on the top of the synchronizer shaft. Look at it, and the tool, and it will be immediately obvious if you are right or 180° off.

Never worked on a 4.0. The pic that's upside down is the proper 5.0 tool.

There is. Statically. Move the crank to TDC, and rotate the synchronizer using the tool to set the synchronizer position. Piece of cake. The computer "tunes" the spark depending on circumstances, but it does this based on an assumption that the cam sensor is at zeroed out at TDC. If you don't...

I've seen lower prices than that for the two-row, but since there are at least two different versions used in the 97, it's important to know how to tell them apart, so as to figure out which one to order. So what is the difference?

Do this: Get a new pinion flange nut and new pinion seal. Disconnect the driveshaft from the pinion flange, and wire it up out of the way. Use a hard steel shaft through one of the unused holes on the pinion flange to prevent the pinion from turning. Remove the pinion flange nut...

I'm looking for an answer to the exact same question.

The only one that listed the Mountaineer wheel was Rock Auto, and they get their wheels from Keystone, and it's Keystone that keeps sending me the wrong color.

Dumb question maybe, since you should disconnect the battery when working on air bags, but have you tried disconnecting the battery for a half-hour to reset the PCM?

I tried that and the search feature, couldn't find any source.

stock alloy wheel for a 1997 Mountaineer? Coupla years ago I needed one, and local supplier had no trouble supplying one with the correct purple-gray holes. Now they keep coming with the charcoal Explorer color in the holes. The supplier owes me the wheel, so new or reconditioned is no problem...

I had the squeak for months before I got a CHECK ENGINE light. The shaft got so loose it contacted the inner A circuit pickup, and snapped it off. Even easier: Remove the cam sensor from the synchronizer, and bump the engine until it is in the correct synch position required to install the...