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interesting, not at all meaning super low idle like the IAC is not working? then randomly jumping to 1500 or so? Right now I have the IAC unplugged, and it runs just hunky-dory, but with a low idle, so you have to sit with it for a minute in the morning until it builds a little heat and will...

you are saying when yours went bad you had always on or off fast idle? or you are asking about mine?

codes have all been fixed, vacumn lines all look good.

Our explorer has an erratic idle issue, I have tested lots of components, replaced a couple, and it still does what it does (I have another thread on here about that that no one seems to have any clue where to go next). So I was just curious if there was any way to rule it out.

howdy, How common is it for the PCM to go bad on these trucks? Is there any definitive test to decide if they are bad? thanks, pkn

no more bright ideas here I guess?

also, what if you put a dial indicator on the axle flange face? a few thou on that small diameter will translate to much more out on the edges of the drum.

the only way that can be physically possible is if something is in between the 2 surfaces. or if the mating surface diameters are not matching up correctly. or a stud or a hole in the drum has a blemish or something stopping them from mating correctly.

sounds kinda like the backing plate is tweaked out of shape. Or even bent axle housing?

latest update guys: MAF and TPS both check out perfect with the multimeter. unhooking the battery for a while after changing the IAC valve did seem to help quite a bit. I put a vacumn gage on it, it idles at a steady 18in. I pulled the vacumn line off the FPR, looks clean and dry, no evidence...

and shouldn't the TPS throw a code of some sort? on the KOEO or the KOER?

yes, I don't see how I could have gotten it wrong that many times. I was using my friend's Innova scanner, the screen tells you exactly when to do each test, steering wheel, brake pedal, floor it. Mr. Shorty: what do you think of the fact that a new IAC valve made the problem MUCH worse, same...

thats a thought, I did not unhook the battery after changing the IAC. I will try that this evening. thanks

ok, so the new IAC valve made the situation WAY worse, now it takes off way more often, and it revs higher yet when it does it. Is this a clue in itself I am wondering? Like maybe the new valve is a POS, worse than the old one, and that is still the real problem? I ran the codes again last...

Mr. Shorty: No, I have not checked the fuel pressure yet, 1. I do not have a gage, 2. I really do not feel like this is a fuel issue. it makes lean popping sounds in the intake, then the engine takes off, then comes back to idle after a few seconds. never any missing, stumbling or any of that...

ran the codes again last night, getting all "1"'s now. I am out of ideas on this truck.

purge canister solenoid, throttle body gasket(had to make my own, nobody had one until Tuesday), replaced nearby vacumn lines, none of this stuff stopped the surging Bullshit. this truck is about a pain in my ass.

Well, I am back. the truck is no better, still popping thru the intake, jumping 500 or more RPM at random, at idle, while driving, totally whenever it feels like. It's half assed dangerous sometimes. but no missing, all cylinders are hitting fine. After the last set of codes that I listed here...

well damn, I guess in all my reading I never caught the fact that there is a separator pulse, that does drasically change things. thank you. last night I unhooked the battery for about 20 minutes, hooked it back up and ran a couple more errands, about 15 or 20 minutes driving time, then...

I switched ours out for manuals, now it 4 wheels and drives thru snow like a big truck, I wouldn't even screw with the stock ones.

Hi guys, I have a '94 Explorer 2dr, 5-spd, pretty much stock drivetrain. for a few weeks now it will most days start and run fine, but some days it won't start without giving it gas, then it will idle very low, barely 500rpm. the RPM will randomly (truly random, just once in a while) jump...

yes, sway bars have new poly bushings. I'm really wondering about the shocks, they are supposed to be excellent offroad shocks, and the vendor swore they would be good on the street also, they claimed that even though they are 70/30, each side would offset the other, to create solid handling...

and its really not a slop issue, or wandering, or anything like that. It drives very nice in general, but if you twitch the wheel, or change lanes a tad too quick, it does this weird "react too quick/body roll thing, like it could get away from you easy if you don't watch it" type thing...

I already put polyurethane in the radius arms and sway bars, they were obviously trashed when I bought it.

ok, I'm ordering axle pivot bushings today. this truck has only 84,000 miles, so it runs like a champ, but it was a wisconsin truck for a lot of it's life, and everything underneath is rusty, rotted, etc. does anybody have any experience with these jamesduff shocks on the street, thats...