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Just wanted to check in and say my mustang swap engine is running like a top. I'm very pleased with the way it turned out. Austin

Help any? Indeed you did. I really appreciate the detailed info. I will be sure to get the FORD shop manual as well as the badshoe video. One of his other videos walked me through a C6 and T5 rebuild. I once used two screw spread set ups to brace up a flexing I-beam in an industrial...

Well, I don't have your 50 plus years of experience. But I'm thinking I could do ok. I found an old shop manual on how to rebuild the steering gear box in my 71 f100. After 3 store "rebuilds", the one I did drove like a new truck. I designed and built bevel gears for a right angle drive...

It isn't odd at all. When you go from a throttle on to a throttle off, you are changing what side of the teeth you are in contact with. Lets say you have your foot on the gas. Friction from the road is trying to slow the ring gear down but the pinion is forcing that ring to turn. When...

I think we need to be a little more specific on what we are talking about. When it comes to 3rd members, rear ends, or differentials, lots of guys get confused (me one of them). To sfbayjay's early point, can you use a "locker" or traction loc from another vehicle as long as the spline...

Um....ok. We are building a house right now. Once done, this might be on my list of things to do. I will let everyone know how it goes. I'm thinking I will pick up a used diff and rebuild it myself. thanks Austin

There is no "think". You need to be sure of what you have. Yes, you can switch to an open diff. The front differential (if you do actually have 4WD) doesn't care if you have traction lok or not in the rear. You do HAVE to have the same ratio front and back. If you have 3.73, you have to...

I agree with Joscibo. I ran my 2002 to 185k miles and then it broke a spring. Instead of messing with the old motor I dropped in a newer mustang 4.0L. Faster and cheaper than opening that old motor. Austin

That is great! As far as the seat base, do you know anyone with a vacume chamber? That will dry it out quick! If not, then set it in the sun for a couple of days.

I bet you have a blown fuse and/or bad wires where they leave the door and go into the cab. I would remove the rubber boot and check there first.

Apparently, neither the 3rd gen nor the mustang 4.0 have the 2nd gen insulators.

I've had the rear end noise for years. It looks like we will be driving the explorer for another 100k miles so I'm thinking i would like to fix the howling. I know it isn't the wheel bearings. So, is the problem in the pumpkin? Do the 2006-2010 pumpkins bolt in? Do they have the same...

Mustang engine waiting to be stripped. Mustang engine stripped and ready for explorer parts. No mounts with the engine low in the bay. Easy to reach the other trans bolts. UG! The exhaust manifold stud was stuck in the exhaust pipe. Here is what I used...

crankcase breather? No. The 2002 has a PVC that goes from the driver's side valve cover to the intake. So the explorer valve covers went onto the mustang motor as well. injector seats/insulators? I remember pulling the mustang injectors/fuel rail and then installing my old explorer...

Why have the shop do it? Do you have an engine hoist and a shop jack? If so, then you are set. If not, do you have a buddy? Harbor freight has those tools pretty cheap. The rest of the swap is common hand tools. You might need one or two deep sockets or other misc tools but if there is a...

Did you look in the owners manual? Sometimes there is a card in there. Also, if I remember correctly in the how to, some guys found it under the windshield or something similar and behind the ps trim of the C pillar. If you looked behind the trim, maybe it is in the other place. Read the...

It is a trans cooler. I would have never thought to pull the bumper and other parts. Is the condensor in the way? Too late for me but at least others will know if they search mustang swap or similar. Austin

I hated how the trans cooler had to come with the radiator. You have to CUT the trans cooler lines and then splice them later. As an engineer, I was shocked at this design. I know there are reasons for it but I was not impressed. I don't have an oil cooler. Austin

yeah, before you do much else, I would pull some plugs and turn the motor over by hand (using the crank bolt). If it won't turn over by hand, then you are out of luck. Austin

How much do you think an engine swap will cost you? I did mine for $1200. $1100 for the 2008 mustang motor and $100 in gaskets. Plus I got a spare coil pack and other stuff. I figure a new car note is about $500 a month. So if it lasts two months then i got my money back! HA! I posted...

Pull out the wheel wells first. Unbolt the engine mounts, lift the engine, remove motor mounts and then lower engine. This will allow you to get to all the engine/transmission bolts via the wheel wells. Makes it easy. This is of course the last thing you do before removing the engine...

Me too. We have been driving it all week and it is running like a top. Even with all the trouble shooting and tons of idle time after the fix (to make sure it was fixed), it still put down 19.5 MPG when I filled it up last night. With four kids, it is nice that the wife and I have the front...

Just a quick follow up. I had some CPS wires there were pinched behind the PS pump bracket that was giving me some fits. Once that was fixed, it has been running great. I put 500 miles on it in the last couple of days and it feels great. Plus, with the mustang motor I got a spare coil...

Search this site for what those codes mean.

So, when you hot wire the fuel pump, you have good pressure at the rail? If you have spark and pressure at the rail, I would think Crank Possition Sensor, but with the codes, I'm not sure.