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What about the sparkplugs, when was the last time they were changed? PCV valve and it's grommet? How old are they?

Thanks - nice writeup. I'll do it at the same time when I'm working on the shift motor.

Dave77, it went down and won't come back up? Could be the wires have broken on the window regulator. Once you remove the door panel, you may be able to see the broken cable.

You need new bushings for the motor. My 93 had the same exact symptoms. See this thread and you'll be set with $10-20 in parts. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145469

There is a plastic bushing that goes on the striker bolt that the latch attaches to when you close the door. Is that still intact or even present? If not, replacing it makes a huge difference on how the latch engages.

I bought from this place http://www.littlepassengerseats.com/ford_explorer.htm Very happy with it; I've had it about 10 years now and it has held up very well and allowed us to keep our 1993 much longer than had we not put in the third seat. You can call to see if they have used seats...

Try here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-screws/=bieeyf You can then search for by the bolt size, pitch and length. Couldn't find any flange bolts greater than 90mm for M8x1.25. But they are available in a standard hex and just use a washer instead.

Looks like it stopped. I sprayed the bleeder screw with brake cleaner a couple of times. The only thing I can think of was that it removed any residual brake fluid between the threads which may have been leading a pathway for the fluid to leak out. Once that was cleaned out, all was good.

Replaced the LF caliper and bled the brakes. The bleeder screw has a slight leak. I don't think I overtightened it. It's pretty well tight. Should I replace it with a new one or can I use some kind of teflon tape to get it to stop. Thanks.

Could be the bushings in the motor. Here's a thread I had about replacing the Driver's door bushings. There's a link to another thread on how to do it on the back windows. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235228

Sounds like the bushings. Mine had the same symptoms and once I replaced them, they were like new. Checkout the following threads. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145469 http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235228

I've had this in mine for over 10 years now. Definitely got extended life out of my Explorer as my family grew. Great product. Took me 3.5 hours to install taking my time. Definitely recommend it if anyone is looking to add a 3rd row to a 1st Gen. It can be mounted forward or rear facing...

Here's is my post when I did the Front Driver's of my 93. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235228 I would think the front passenger should be the same. Mine was also stuck in the down position, but once I got the motor out, I was able to push the window closed until...

Sorry to hear about your trouble with the driver's window motor. Hope it is easier for you to get the motor back in. Here's a thread I posted about my replacement of the driver's side bushings. 93 Driver's Side window Bushings Replacement

I bought this a LONG time ago but never installed it. I wasn’t sure where on the pan to install it. Did you put it on the side or bottom of the pan?

Yes. I forgot to mention to unplug the motor wiring which is at the bottom of the door. But after it is unbolted, just pull it out through the speaker opening.

If they are still original, I would give it a try. The parts are cheap enough and it is not that hard to do with all the info on this site. I'd block off 1.5 hours (conservative side) to do it. Mine worked OK, but would lock up randomly. I was always afraid it would not go back up when...

5. My bushings hadn't disintegrated, but weren't round anymore. They would work fine but the motor would get stuck randomly. So if this happens to your windows, this may be the cause. New Bushings versus Old Bushings 6. Place the new bushings in place. The gear was a little hard to put...

Just did my driver's side window. It's a little different from the rear windows, so I thought I'd post some pics. Thanks to 85Dave's thread "Power Window Bushing Replacement with Pics" (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145469) which was invaluable. So I'm just adding...

Checkout www.radiator.com. They have 2 listed for $98 and $101 for a 1994 Explorer. The $101 has a core thickness of 2.25” vs 1”. Do the online chat to figure out the radiator you need. Type in “Are you a computer?” anytime and you’ll get a coupon code for $25 off when you have them call...

Looks like the water passages on both sides closest to the firewall are all blocked off with rust/junk. Mine was leaking from the drivers side water passage closest to the firewall. I didn't see what my intake looked like when they had it apart, so I can't tell you if that is normal...

I had water in my oil and it turned out to be the intake gasket. The engine ran strong and I didn't notice any performance loss. Only when I checked the oil did I notice the milkshake color and knew there was something wrong. Hopefully yours is the same situation.

Both will fit. The difference is how much do you want to spend. The 9000 has a 9-way adjusting feature whereas the 5000 doesn't. I've had RS9000 (older 5-way adjustable) since 1993 and have no complaints about them.

BestBuy sells it. I think Circuit City too.

I just did this on my 93 Explorer with the JBL system. The head unit seemed to be fine but all I heard was ticking noises when I tried changing the volume. Luckily it was the head unit and not the amp that was the problem. You can use the factory wire harness with no splicing but you’ll need...