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you could go as high as 95-01 for the body, only 2 mounts wont match on the radiator support if you wanted to update to gen 2, be a little extra wiring. 91-94 will be the easiest. all explorers have the plate on the trans tunnel for the 5 speed, just have to swap the pedals in(bolt in)

1st one is 15x8 procomps with 35 mtrs 2nd is 2k ranger 16" rims on 285/75/r16 can get a better picture currently have the 16s on my 97 explorer with 235/85/r16(skinney but tall tire a tad smaller than the 285s

just look up the shock part number for the 5" rough country kit, its based off the superlift kit.

get one of these Quick-Connect Compression Tester will tell you how the engines health is doing, my bet is those are just old and weren't firing correctly

i have her holding the gas pedal down at startup to build oil pressure before starting , was going to replace the tensioners but was reading it caused more damage than good as the plastic guides might be brittle from age, other than than havent read another other fixes.

see them a ton out here,(believe it or not the ones on the west side of the mountains in wa state are rust free) but the 1st gens are getting harder to come by for parts here at the pick n pull. sadly the whole firestone thing killed them and the popularity with rangers and xj /aftermarket...

interesting on the quality of moog, where is the origin from? i have heard differences on where there parts originate from is a big factory lately, the ones i have didnt have the seal like the one pictured above., maybe i got a old batch.. but if there quality is down definitely look at...

they are pretty decent stuff, its what bronco graveyard supplies for there steering stuff, was pretty high quality and on par with OEM when i did the steering on my old 88 bronco when i had it. as for balljoints im running Moog lowers on my 97 i stole of my 2k ranger, and they have probally...

jjust kinda showing what im talking about. also i just run oreilly house brand reman cvs.... only busted them once on my 2k ranger, full lock and alot of wheel hop.

you can get more than 2" out of it.... but it does make the ride more stiff. i spaced out my factory shocks with some some over size nuts on the 2 bottom studs and 1 on the top stud, and i double up on the washer on the top side of the mount as i have ripped the shock out of the mount before...

a 410 said, you have 95-01 explorers and 98-11 rangers for the front diff plus 01-05 sport(2 door) and sport trac(same for the rear axle) 3 bolts pop one of the upper ball joints and you can get it out, only time its a issue is if the flag nut breaks.... pick n pull is the cheapest source...

2 ways to get 6"... sas or Rough country 5in Ford Ranger Lift Kit (98-11) 5" and 2/3" body lift. 7-8" ....... with the rough country kit you need to flip the axle to the bottom of the springs and weld on new perches....

factory 16" ....(mine are off a 2k ranger) yes they will fit lockouts on a dana 35 ttb and yes the plastic center caps will work after you drill a hole sorry dont have a pic with the combo together but i was running it last year so save some gas mileage over the 35s

also the newer explorers are only worth it if you get he 4.6l.... the 3rd gens have the same exact 4.0 sohc with the same exact problems...

i just bought a 01 a few months ago for $750 with 180k 2wd....4.0 sohc.... you can find decent 5.0 ones for under $2000 my current daily i paid $350 for (97 5.0 awd leather loaded 220k currently has 232k) just invest in another 2nd gen 5.0/4.0 ohv and save the 97 for parts or run it til the...

dont think there are any differences in the lowers, my 94 explorer vs 2000 ranger differences though 1. uppers plastic vs aluminum same gasket for botttom of rail but the aluminum ones use 2 and the plastic upper uses molded o-rings 2. EGR(no egr on 2000) 3. spark plug wire routing 4. fuel...

im and currently doing research myself, and i keep comming back to the stock cam is the best for the weight of the explorer/torque, e303 sucks, 2 consideration: 1 is the stock valve springs are to soft... so you will need to upgrade them(even the stock HO mustang cam is to much lift for them)...

City bus fender flares?

if superduty uses same abs sensor Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting 99-16

option 1(what i am running, cheapest) 1/2 flat stock drilled at 8.5" x4(lift shackle) Explorer Pro Comp 13120 Rear Short Add-a-Leaf Kit(removed my sag) 02 f250 rear shocks with pin bar eliminators.(optional for more travel) option 2 Explorer Leaf Springs, Ford Explorer Leaf Spring never...

maybe a vaumn leak, while the engine is cold start spraying the starting fuid around the vacumn lines and intake gaskets and see if the rpm changes. another thing to check is the clutch pedal switch, it might be bad, if memory recalls the manual ecm will hang/delay the rpms from dropping to...

my bet is you didnt get the intake gasket lined up properly, i made that mistake installing a intake on a 289 before and dumped coolant straight into the exhaust.. did you use alignment bolts(bolts with the head cut off) or plastic pins when you sat the intake down? you also been driving it...

block to frame frame to negative terminal(thats how factory is setup), if you just run it to the battery from the block then the chassis wont be grounded and will cause issues. should go to a hole ontop of the frame infront of the coil bucket, thats where it is on all my ford trucks

4.0L Camshaft Synchronizer : The Ranger Station how to reset the timing, also you did get the crankshaft sensor plug in next to the harmonic balancer right?

i run it on my 94 and 97 with my pioneer decks, the remote blue wire controls it, only difference is the pioneer needs less input to power the speakers when using the bypass harness....dont remember the white wire but been a while since i wired it in. i have stock 2000 ranger speakers in my 94...