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used to be I would recommend DDM (though I never would recommend a kit only), but with their recent bulbs causing delamination of the chrome layer in some projectors. I no longer would. Their bulbs run hotter than most mid-level HID brands and way hotter than true oem brands.

Some of the retrofit forums are pretty dead. Especially the high-intensity forum. The main one that has essentially ALL of the traffic is the HIDPlanet forum. You will find loads of people on HIDPlanet who have retrofit pretty much every car made since the 1970s (one guy retrofit a 1930s hot...

Call it as you wish, I just speak from my personal experience, having made a good number of LED drop-ins for others. I have purchased supposed 20k mcd LEDs that were noticeably brighter than other supposed 42k mcd LEDs on ebay. As for ratings, how many people buy multiple bulk quantities of LEDs...

Nope that is a pulldown resistor for the sense wire. It shouldn't take anywhere near the full 3W of current. THat being said, it appears he either has a derivant LM317 or hooked it up backwards Pin 1: Adj aka Sense or SW Pin 2: Vout Pin 3: Vin

Hehe, first off as I mentioned to energie. No offense, but there is no way in hell those are 55k mcd. No way. Likely the seller is either quoting what was told to them by the Chinese manufacturer or they themselves are manipulating the results. mcd is a much more easily manipulated value than...

Avoid the ones with 5mm LEDs like that. THey don't have enough metal to serve as a proper heat sink (considering they are not Voltage regulated). This would lead to an early death of the LEDs. Superbrightleds tends to have much better options. Surface mount LEDs (which can then use the...

It would help if you provided some pictures. Some details on the projectors etc. I can usually help you out if I have the basic information provided.

Actually, you are half right. The cost wouldn't be too bad (Relay, some wire and some diodes). It would just take some time.

Obviously the blue tint is going to make them bluer, that being said the bulb without the tint will be brighter but yellower. The xenon in halogen bulbs serves an entirely different purpose than in HID bulbs. In HID bulbs it is there are both an inert atmosphere and as a light source. In halogen...

One thing I just noticed, no way in hell those things put out 35 Lumens at a 31mA current draw. Some of the BEST (AND EXPENSIVE) LEDs right now put out 20ish Lumens at 50mA (this excludes some of the super high power ones which can get some crazy efficiencies but at much higher currents).

It's dying. Plain and simple as it is heating up its making it worse.

I am comparing apples to apples here, meaning same exact bulb with clear glass versus same exact bulb with tint. Its a physical fact, a filter reduces output by filtering out certain frequencies and letting others pass. As for these new bulbs, it maybe either a) your eyes perceive bluer light as...

You do know there is no such thing as DOT approved right? It's entirely self-certification according to the DOT guidelines. That being said, bulbs with a tint on them (more so blue than yellow) suck. You are sacrificing chunks of output for a color.

I bet its in your owners manual. Every car I have owned had that in the owners manual. On a side note, EVERY car I have owned had improperly adjusted headlights when I got it. Some where high, some low and the worst was one I purchased from a person where one headlight aimed down the other up.

Yup, that should be easily possible. I remember my explorer had the perfect gap for it. Just make sure you put a regulator on those LEDs. I have seen SOOO many of them with burnt out LEDs or sections.

I've seen the 11's on ebay for a load of money but not the 21's. Digikey has them though: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=425-2287-5-ND Mouser...

When I say OEM I mean OEM projectors like TL, FX, etc. These are slightly worse than the bottom line OEM projectors (Hella E55's, E46's etc.). Comparison wise, these will give you a similar cutoff (good!) but with less width and intensity. OEM projectors like a TL give you LOADS of width and...

Some states yes soe states no. ALso, Bill that mod you linked to is EXACTLY the schematic I just posted above. The blue plug goes to your stock plug, the orange plugs go to your bulbs.

Sorry it took so long. Here is the schematic: The simpler version just removes the second relay and the pale blue wire connects to the orange one.

Alright, get ready for one of my wall-of-text posts :D :wavey: I am going to post this so far and then expand on it. First point: Red behind clear will be brighter. Here's why: With white behind red, you are filtering out a huge chunk of the spectrum just to get the red. This reduces your...

There is no such thing as too powerful of a wire. The only thing is too much voltage. All car voltages are roughly 12-14.5V fluctuating.

One way is just using a beefy diode (very beefy), but then you risk burnt wires etc. The other way is the brightbox method. No need to buy one of those controller boxes if they are more than $30 or so bucks, because you can make your own at that price. All you need are some wires (12-14...

DId you test the outputs with a DMM to see if the connector is atleast getting power?

Yep, those are non-conductive. COnducive is usually chrome finished plastics, metals, etc.

Dunno what I was thinking when typing that first sentence. Ignore the words half foot. It should just read: Any non-conductive material should work provided the leads stick out the other end.