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For what the dealer would have charged you (if they could get them) you can get what you need from ARP Fasteners.

I have owned 3 new Explorers and removed the roof rack from all of them. A 1991, 1993, and a 1999 and actually had the 91 removed by the new car dealer after they had replaced the rear differential twice for a humming noise while under warranty. Not only was the noise fixed by removing the roof...

Best to remove Explorer roof racks for a slight MPG improvement, very few people use them at all. MHO:bounce:

There are many people pointing to the fan clutch. The easiest way to check if you are getting proper air flow through the radiator is to warm up the engine to normal with the hood closed and lay a shop towel over the grill. If the towel will not stay put that means the fan will not pull the air...

I did what koda did and put a drain plug in during the first 30K fluid change on my 4R70W. I found that the filter only needs changed every other service. With the drain plug there is no mess. Do not forget to drain the torque converter while changing to new fluid.

Since you will be taking the dash apart to replace them, a real PIA, I would suggest getting the "long life" versions bulbs so you will never have to do that job again.

The low side could have a plugged orifice tube.

It seems that there is a misconception about using a cooler range thermostat to make your engine run cooler. The thermostat is a valve and it is fully open at or near it's advertised temperature setting. Once open fully it will allow coolant to pass through no matter how hot it becomes...

I am curious as to why the valve body was replaced? In most irregular shift problems just changing out the fluid will cure most issues. I agree with the previous posters on the Mercon V fluid. In the Ford manuals " Change fluid every 30K miles". Usually this does not get done until it creates an...

I am sorry to disagree with Mbrooks but I own since brand new and maintain a 5.0, including oil changes and they require 6 quarts with a filter replacement.

You are aware that your engine requires 6 quarts of oil when also changing the filter. I have no way of knowing what the PO did when relocating your oil cooler, but it could possible need more oil to fill the system, explaining why it checked low on the dipstick.

Great, you have a Traction-lok from the factory. Use Ford M19546A friction modifier it is what the factory uses in Traction lok and is the best on the market, even the other makes use it. It is a little more expensive @ about $13 but worth it.

Yes very much so, being low on grease can cause noise. Have you determined if your differential is a Traction-Lock?

Yes, Swingin. I have always added tration modifier but I also have seen many Ford differentials that acted up because of lack of proper lube. Especially when a dealer advised an $800 rebuild when all that was needed was additive. I did not say it had no additive, I said the additive may be worn...

If it is quite when cold I would try replacing the axle grease, assuming it is a Traction-Lok rear end. The friction modifier may be worn out. Try just adding a small container of friction modifier to your rear end grease to see if it makes a difference before investing in new grease.

Hi Mike, You might try checking the "Multifunction Switch" as all those lighting functions go threw it and the switches are problematic that is how they came to be referred to as the"Malfunction Switch"

Hi Drg racr, Start by pulling the fuses that keep some electrical items powered all the time, radio, PATS and so forth. As you pull fuses pull the ground wire of the battery to see if you get an arc, if you do you have still not found the draw. Do not forget to close the doors when doing this as...

Front compressor seal is the main leaker, also check the condenser for stone or debris damage, all places with "O" ring couplings. The hardest one to replace is the evaporator but in most cases you can probe it for leaks with your sniffer.

(Ever replace a radiator, only to have a hose fail a few months later?) It is a known fact that on old car cooling systems that replacing or repairing a leaking item, which has been a pressure relief for the whole system, the next weakest part will fail. Thinking you are doing your old car a...

Get the temperature control plastic lever up under the dash as they are very hard to find that are not broken.

Check T/C fluid Some of these issues can be remedied by changing the fluid in the transfer case. I have seen strange behavior from the transfer case and draining it showed lubricant that looked like a 80K mile engine oil change. Once the new lubricant was installed the noise and weird behavior...

Look at the spark plugs Usually this kind of leak into the combustion chamber can easily be found by pulling the plugs and looking at their color or unusual deposits from the coolant being in the cylinder. Coolant can turn to steam and clean the plug in the chamber making it obvious as to which...

This stuff is nothing like the old Bars Leak from years past. Go onto Advance Auto Parts...

Personal Testamone The magic in a bottle does exist, it is called Bars Leak Head Gasket & Cooling Sealant, I bought it at Advance Auto Parts for $44.99 because I had an old 1990Jeep Cherokee that had nearly 400K miles and I did not want to tear the head off to fix this issue which was basically...