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No I did not. Sorry I wish had something to tell you. I ended up just turning around and selling the truck without doing any of the repairs.

Thanks! Someone should throw that in the top post in the sticky "Everything you need to know about keyless entry".

Can some do me a favor and tell me the battery size for a 1997 keyless remote? I took the batteries out and left them on my desk at work and would like to pick up new ones tonight. Thanks!

I only put in about 3.5 quarts I didn't add any friction modifier and I filled until it came out of the fill hole. So maybe that last .5 quart accounted for the 1/4 inch up to the fill hole? So there is only .5 quarts of Mobil 1. Would having an extra .5 inch of fluid make the rear end...

Looking back at my bottles, I used 3 quarts of Valvoline SYNpower, also claims to have frictio modifiers in it, and 1 quart of the Mobil LS (I grabbed 3 at one store and 1 at another, grabbed silver bottles...didn't realize I was getting different brands). 75W-140. I was under the impression...

Ok so I just bout 4 quarts of the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic oil to change out my rear diff oil. The label on this stuff has a big red tag that says "limited slip" in and makes a big deal that it is recommended for all standard and "limited slip hypoid differentials" and "meets or exceeds Ford...

Thanks Izwack, I had read through this post as well as Gavin's post on rebuilding the 4404. They helped me understand where the VC was in the case and lots of info on how it works and how to test it. But I was still looking for the specifics on any special tools (like a press or something)...

I'm considering just opening the transfer case and replacing the VC. A new VC is $300-$400, a rebuilt T-case is $1000. Do you need any special tools to get to the coupler? Do you break anything in the process (do you ruin any seals or anything else that will have to be replaced from opening...

I know there is debate (or was debate) about driving without the front driveshaft eventually ruining a good viscous coupler. However if your viscous coupler is already toasted, will driving without the front drive shaft hurt anything else?? I can't think of anything (other than the car behind...

Awesome. So is the friction modifier a Ford specific product? Where do I get it? I've only had mechanical limited slips before...just used lube without any additive.

I looked up how to do a differential flush, it said the following: 1) Drain diff fluid 2) fill diff fluid, drive 5-10 miles 3) Drain diff fluid 4) Refill Someone said the differential fluid is $80...so this procedure, having to refill the diff twice, would cost $160 in fluid. Any...

I was wondering about that. Thanks for clarifying. I was also wondering if he pulled the drain plug...did he replace the fluid that drained out????? Good to know there must have been something lost in translation. The check out guy was reading off the mechanic's notes.

Thanks Jcat, so is it just random? Sometimes after removing your lower joint you have a "stretched" hole and need the oversized and sometimes not and there is no way to know until you press out your existing joints? Or do you always need the oversized balljoint after pressing out the factory...

So I see MOOG offers the lower ball joints in two size - regular or oversized. What do most people use? Why?

"oil spray" that sounds like a good idea! Then my oil leaks would blend in better to the rest of the undercarriage!:D Actually I had an automatic undercarriage oilspray system on my suburban, the rear of the transfer case slowly seeped fluid and the universal joint on the drive shaft flung...

Windsor, that is a good perspective, I have no reason to believe the engine and trans in the truck have any problems...but boy, if I they do develope a problem after I put the rest of this stuff in (rebuilt transfer case will be $850) it will be hard to swallow. Romeoville, it is rusty, but...

How can you tell it is the engine that is vibrating? ***never mind...just saw this happens in park while not moving*** Can you describe the vibration better?

Yeah...you're right, I always try to explain that to my wife, if I got use out of the truck I shouldn't expect to sell it for what I bought it for. I shouldn't use the phrase "break even" or "sell at a loss". I guess I mean, I usually end up investing WAY WAY WAY more...and in the end...

thanks swshawaii...good to know Ford agrees with the change. Does anyone know the reason why ford used 2-piece originally?

I had some coffee this morning, now I'm starting to think about keeping the truck and fixing it. I can get all the front suspension parts for both sides for like $180 total, and just replace them all. Then get an alignment for $100. I'll take out the front driveshaft for now to deal with...

Why did Ford use a 2-piece upper control arm on the passenger side? Since you can buy a single piece replacement....one not have one-piece from the get go?

Just curious. What is the difference between the early V8's and later V8s? Other than Gt-40p heads?

Anybody done this? Anything crazy involved? Mine are all fogged up and one of the turnsignal housings has a hole in it. Don't have to take off the fender or anything wild do you? Truck isn't here at the moment, can't look.

Yeah, I think that would be my game plan. If the rear axle dies I'd just get a used axle, forget messing with rebuilding the diff. I just get nervous, this poor truck has been passed around. It was previously titled in another state, sold through an auction to a cheap car peddler, who sold...

So, Bought the new 97 5.0L for $2,200 with 91k mi. Could tell the front end was a mess, so took it in to have the professional take a look before I invested a dime. Here is what came back 1) Upper and Lower ball joints, upper VERY bad (I knew this) 2) Right outer tie rod end is bad 3)...