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Truck has 39K miles, transmission fluid changed about 4X over the life. I did tow a small camper many years ago, but fluid has always been good. Never any indication of worn syncro's from the fluid. (Yes 39K miles)

I scored the axle housing by screwing in a bolt without the cover (had some issues with torque wrench so I was testing the wrench to see if it was working...had an issue with it last time I used it) Didn't realize that the type of bolt used for the rear axle would score a circle. :mad: Well...

I will try this trick, I tried bleeding with a pneumatic brake bleeder, and manually bleeding it. No change, I would think that the movement of the fluid would move the air from the system, even if it is stuck on top of the master cylinder. I find if I make siue the clutch is depressed mashed...

I was going to have someone keep pouring in the slave cylinder as I use the pump...I was concerned there was a reason why I couldn't find anyone who has done it as it.

I have air in the line and/or slave cylinder, watched several videos that show to remove the assy to bleed, and thought, why not just use a pneumatic brake bleeder just to suck the air/fluid thru? Am I missing something? Thanks!

Great post! I wish I saw this years ago, my rotors were good n stuck, for the life of me I couldn't get them to budge, I paid a local shop to remove them for me, they said they had to cut apart to get them off....(they were on their for 14 years) Great post

I was thinking of selling my 97 Sport, KBB states the value is $2000, but I am trying to determine a fair price as it has only 29400 mile on it, been garaged since day 1 and has only been out in the snow the first couple years I have owned it. It is in just about showroom condition and has been...

Wondering if someone can take and send me some under the hood piks of their 1999(ish) 5L exp/mountaineer.. I finally am going to sell my blown mountaineer and am going to return the vehicle to stock before I sell it and wanted some piks of the left side/front (fan area) of the engine...

...so keep the truck running as I am adding coolant? I do squeeze the lines (hoses) a bit and also try to pour some antifreeze in the "T" the 4L seems to be finakee (sp?)... ...i just worry about head damage during the time getting the air out. If the gauge is not reading then I there is a...

Everytime I change my antifreeze it seems a little of a pain to burp the air from it. I drain and flush out the old. I have a "prestone T" in the heater line where I can keep it open till antifreeze comes out as I add as the air expels there as I add to the radiator. I add about 5.5 qts of...

My water pump is starting to go for my 5L so since a PITA to change I figured I would go with a Ford one as usually histirically I have had better luck then AutoZone or Advanced Auto so I ordered one from Ford. When I looked at it, it was a generic pump, no Ford numbers stamped in the...

I installed it about 6 years ago...bought it right from Ford. A little lag, but from 2500 and up it pulls quite hard.

I added a Ford Racing (Powerdyne) Supercharger, Torque Monster Headers, and a Gibson cat back exhaust to my 5L Mountaineer just for towing my camper and it made a big difference towing. Less struggle up hills and easier passing...plus it is my dailey driver so it does add a fun factor.

Changed the wires today, figuring since I liked the fit of the stock wires with the TMH's I would replace the original after 13 years.... Well the replacement stock wires are not the exact same length, some are a bit longer which makes it much harder to keep them neat and away from the...

I used the gaskets that came with the headers, prep'd the surface very well and haven't had any issues in 4 years and it is my daily driver. (hope I didn't jinx myself) I have to say that I think that if the gaskets did fail I would remove the header and clean the surface as much as a PITA...

I am going to try to see if I can match the color with a blue LED, or buy just the bulb on ebay and resuse the condom. When I tried that with my Mountaineer I tore it as it was brittle. I was also thinking some liquid blue electrical tape (found at home depot) I recieved a clarification on...

Noticed that the headlight switch buld was out on my 97 Explorer, so I called the local dealer for a price $47.50!!! WTF? it's a $1 bulb with a $1 base. and a .50 blue boot... isn't really a big deal whether it is lit or not, just can't believe the mark up on parts, this was the most...

That is exactly it, the bottom trim is in the way...they look good from a distance, but up close they really arn't too functional. I think if I put some spacers between the bar and the brackets I can bring it out enough so it will be OK. I searched every where for the factory ones, but...

I just installed a set of Westin Nerf bars on my 97 Sport, but it appears I am going to have to modify them as they only half way clear the bottom trim.. My mod will to add spacers so the bar sticks out about an inch more so there is enough to step on and not always stepping on it with your...

Oops, I posted to wrong gen...thanks!

Could it be a temp sensor for heater box? or ambient temp sensor?

As long as the clamps are nice and snug, it shouldn't leak... Might make sense to buy Ford OEM, I have noticed that the parts lately are getting cheaper, and not monetarily either. (Most made in China)

I just installed a set of Westin Nerf bars on my 97 Sport, but it appears I am going to have to modify them as they only half way clear the bottom trim.. My mod will to add spacers so the bar sticks out about an inch more so there is enough to step on and not always stepping on it with your...