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Just ran a fuel pump test and no pressure. I can't hear the fuel pump, but then I have never been able to hear it.

I swapped it out with another. No change

Read a bunch of threads, and think I have this problem licked. The car has 230K on it and every once in a while it wouldn't start hot. I live in Vegas, so I attributed it to vapor lock. It always started back up in a half hour or so. When running, it was perfect. The other day it got cold...

On closer inspection, the left front shock is also missing the bushing in the top, so the shock just bounces. When my neck is better, I will do a full check of rubber parts. Las Vegas heat is a killer.

It is definitely not the CV. It only pops once when the weight shifts (i.e. going around a corner). There is no rubber on the mount so the metal binds when flexing. It also makes a noise like a shot shock and I couldn't figure the vibration out for the life of me. Not it makes sense. You feel...

Yes they are all done. Moog. The problem is what looks like a bushing next to the transfer case. I think it is a body mount, but I can't look at it in detail now. I just happened to take another look and noticed that there is almost no rubber and I am sure that is the reason on turns it...

I am getting a popping/clunk on turning at slow speeds (usually r turns.) It feels like something is binding then releases. This car has 230k, but new diff, new transfer case, new upper and lower control arms and ball joints, new cv shafts (including front diff), new sway bushings and etc...

I need to change the ECM and I notice on Rock Auto it says that I am confused if I can do this, or if I have to spend money on an EPROM programmer or something. It sounds like they do a general program when you buy it, but you need to tweak it? I need to get this done to pass smog since...

Um, they are morons, the cable goes right to the radio, find a new shop. If they are talking about the power for the motor on the antenna, I don't know, but an adapter takes care of that. Find a new installer.

To follow up, I was about 10 degrees off by trying to match with old part. You really need to use the tool. Autozone has them as loaners, the part number is: 84-8400T, it was $25, but you get your money back. Codes are now gone since I lined up TDC and used the tool.

98 5.0 Just replaced the Camshaft synch and the car runs great. There was enough of the old flag left to put the new one in the same position. After the 3rd restart I got 2 1309 codes and wonder if I was one tooth out the truck would still run great but throw the code. It seemed to...

Yes, I do. I have been afraid to adjust them, but I will try this weekend. I also know that the ARC doesn't come on anymore, so I thought that would be an issue as well. If that doesn't work, off to the drive train specialists in Las Vegas. Thanks.

98, 5.0 AWD Limited, 212k miles I had my lower Control Arms done and since then, I have a horrid vibration intermittently. Usually from 45 -50mph than again at 65 +. It feels like a U-joint, but I think it may be the Lower Control Arm hitting on the rubber bumper. It feels like the whole...

I thought that since ambient temp was so high that the pressures should be higher than normal. The clutch never even cycles because of the heat. I am sure the compressor is a little weak due to age, and that may be the difference. All the fans work, shroud, etc. The only thing that I haven't...

I have been looking for a guide on what the pressures on the high and low side should be. It is 104F in Las Vegas today, and I went to check since the air is coming out about 70F The low side at idle was a constant 50 and the high side was a constant 350, that seems a little high, but with...

I got the radio from radiosandmore.com and after one misfire (on the limited I had the subwoofer option) the radio went in in about 5 seconds. It truly is plug and play. I highly recommend getting a replacement to anyone wanting the stock unit. Don't forget to get the DIN extraction tool if you...

Thanks to everyone. I decided to buy the factory replacement from radiosandmore.com. After talking with them, I found out they upgraded some components and it is such an easy replacement it wasn't worth putting in an aftermarket.

NOTE - It was suggested that I cross post this here as a possibly electrical problem. I have a 98 limited and the lights on the radio unit (in dash cd/tape etc with controls on steering wheel and changer in console.) have gone out 2 times since May 2001. The last time the repair shop fixed...

I have a 98 limited and the lights on the radio unit (in dash cd/tape etc with controls on steering wheel and changer in console.) have gone out 2 times since May 2001. The last time the repair shop fixed it was $80 and he replaced 5 resistors in the dc-dc circuit. Everything works I just can't...