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I had similar symptoms to you except for the stalling at idle. I had to replace all my cats because they were clogged. No codes. A hose of my DPFE sensor (EGR related) kept blowing off because of the back pressure. A good exhaust should be able to tell you.

I've had a first gen and two second gens. The first gen had no problem but the second gens I've gone through several. It's an awkwardly designed handle and you have to be careful with it when you open it. I just buy new ones off ebay, they're pretty cheap. At least they are easy to swap!

I had the same problem I was having a "lack of power" on a road trip and when the rpm's got up there, a hose on my DPFE sensor (part of egr system), would pop off making a hissing sound. I took it to the Ford dealer and they told me I needed my cats replaced. They wanted $1800 for it. I...

Got it on!! So I ended up "making" my own installation tool. If you need to install your damper, and it won't go on by hand, this is what I'd recommend: Go to your nearest specialty hardware store and find a threaded rod same size as your crankshaft bolt (mine was 12mm x 1.5). Also get a...

Got it on!! So I ended up "making" my own installation tool. If you need to install your damper, and it won't go on by hand, this is what I'd recommend: Go to your nearest specialty hardware store and find a threaded rod same size as your crankshaft bolt (mine was 12mm x 1.5). Also get a...

Damper trouble So I've been having loads of trouble getting the new damper on. I started a new thead in the "under the hood" forum and can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290308 Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So I've done lots of searching and I haven't found anything useful. 2000 4.0 OHV I had stripped crankshaft threads, cleaned the threads, now I'm attempting to install the new damper. If you would like to comment on the stripped threads please do so here in my Explorer 911 thread...

I finished tapping tonight attempted to install the new damper. I tried to mount the new damper by hand as I did twice with the old one. It took me no more than 5-10 minutes each time I did it with my old damper. The key on the crankshaft is also harder to line up now because of clearance under...

No, I forgot to use lock-tite the first time. I don't know how to find out about the grade of bolt. That makes me nervous because if I go into a specialty hardware store and someone tells me that it's a high carbon steel or something, I won't really know for sure. I'll just be trusting he knows...

Anybody else have any thoughts on this? My dad firmly believes I need a longer bolt and that I may have only one more shot at this. He does not think an extra 1/4"-1/2" of bolt will throw off the balance. He says, "what if the threads don't hold with the regular bolt the next time?" I'm more...

So it wasn't the damper causing the problem, the bolt just became loose. I took the damper off again and the male key from the crankshaft "carved" a wider groove into the female slot in the damper. This happened because the bolt loosened enough so that the damper was wobbling around at the end...

Uh-oh not again So a week or two later here's the deal... It started a funny vibration when idling yesterday (nothing too concerning). Then today the vibration got worse and a I hear a bad rattling sound when idling. I took it to a shop and the owner, a technician, and myself were looking at...

Yea, when I was researching I found a video where someone was tapping with the forward/reverse technique. I would have had to do it this way either way becuase of the hardened steel. I didn't have proper cutting oil but I used a combination of 3 in 1 oil, wd40, and pb. It did the job.

Thanks for the help, I bought the tool and it worked great. The universal set from autozone did not have the right size tool for the nut or the pulley. I didn't want to run around trying to find the right universal set at another autozone, so I shelled out the dough for the right tool, well...

Fixed! So i finally got off everything to access the crankshaft, once I had the right tools. I decided to try and "clean" the threads using by 12mm x 1.5 tap even though I had been told by several people you can't tap hardened steel. The first several threads went through no problem, then it...

I attempted to remove my cooling fan via a Autozone universal fan removal set to no avail. The kit didn't have the right size open ended wrench for the fan clutch nut or the right size tool for the four bolts on the clutch. Is it possible to remove the cooling fan by removing the four bolts...

I've done some more research and found that people have used helicoil before on a crankshaft, with mixed results. Others have re-tapped to the next biggest size. I have concern of balance issues with the bigger bolt or if I have to drill it out for an insert. I have heard of people making a...

Thread Insert So, I'm pretty sure the crank isn't hardened steel because the threads probably wouldn't have distorted if it was. I'm going to either install a thread insert myself or have someone install it. I have someone who will do it for $200 but won't guarantee it will hold any sort of...

Heat treated hardened steel? So I got a hold of the drill and tap guy. He said that he could put in a solid threat insert (similar to heli-coil). I told him I had a 12mm bolt and 1.5 thread pitch and he said the longest insert the made was about 1.3 inches. He thought that would be plenty of...

Shop Update So I took it into the shop today. They cleaned out the threads and put the new bolt in, but it would not torque down properly. I think it was still just turning, not able to get it tight enough. The owner mentioned something about using a heli-coil screw thread insert, but he didn't...

Of course I do, that was a dumb comment I made. I'm planning on driving the truck 5-6 miles tomorrow to the shop. I put the original bolt back in and got it as tight as possible. You tighten it to a certain point, then gets looser. So I got it right to the point before it gets loose. My...

Good points, thanks for bringing that up. I have the OHV, so I don't think I have the chain or timing cover. But either way, you pursuaded me not to take this route. Does anyone know if tapping hardened steel is possible? Is it just very difficult? I believe that it takes a special tap. If...

The previous bolt actually has smaller threads than the new one, so I don't think that's the case. Yes, the threads in the crank are chewed, when I tried to put the new bolt in just a bit, the threads in the crank rounded the threads on the bolt.

I'm not sure if the bolt is torque to yield, or exactly what that means. But I don't think that's the answer because the bolt that came out was severly distorted, and definitely had a different size thread pitch than the bolt the dealer gave me, assuming that was the right bolt.

Update 2 So I called a shop this morning and they told me since the crankshaft was hardened steel you cannot tap new threads. I talked to another shop and he said he may be able to tap the threads, but he needs to see the car. I think someone just needs to know what they're doing to tap...