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:mattmoon: runs back to LvC

usually when ive seen a melted dpfe, there is a larger prob, like plugged cats/exhaust/etc, the exhaust needs to find the easiest way out, hence youre dpfe sensor. there is no vacc on the dpfe hoses its exhaust back psi, most dealers have the sensor and the hose in stock ($50~ish for the sensor...

also try spraying the wires with water from a spray bottle, it helps promote the arcing

+2 on the blower motor controller, same thing happened on my Lincoln with auto temp, it was on/off/high/low it was all over the damn place even with the heater turned off. its a expensive version of a "blower motor resistor" in a normal setup. and its not the heater control panel, just follow...

or even easier, take off the belt and run the and for a sec or 2, see if it still squeeks

hot in start is red with a black tracer pin 3 Hot in Run or Acc is white with a violet tracer pin 10 hot at all times is light green with violet pin 9 i would post the diagram but its a pdf file and i cant upload it to photobucket

the weep hole is like a 1/4" was there a cap where the thumb size hole is?

+1000 on label everything! but people seem to over, complicate it. eng removal 101, generic eng R&R things ive learned remove the battery there is usually a large wiring bulkhead connector, dont bother unhooking all the connectors on the eng LABEL VACUUM LINES and be careful they get...

heres some wiring diags, not sure if you have auto lamps or not so heres everything, even fog's the airbag wiring is usually in a yellow shroud (kinda like a big loose piece of heatshrink, and you dont wanna ground this (it allready has power, its switched on the ground side)

yup

the bolt pattern is the same, but i think the depth of the "hat" is not, the crown vic rotors have a very deep hat and the explorers seem shallow

i believe ford has a tsb for this that involves re-routing the rear sunroof drains, they angle slightlly upwards, so it overfills the track and leaks out of the overhead counsole, i had to do one and it SUCKED

ok, beenwrong2002, cycle your key from off to run, 8 times ending in the run position, and your doors should lock/unlock, if they do then you can add a remote and mishawaka, read post 1 it tell you how to make your own code, but the factory code will allways remain

i really hope your kidding....................right? :eek: if your not, dont do that, it will eventlly get water in it and go to hell quick, i agree with just driving it and it will work out

prob just a unused connector, ford dosnt make a differant harnes for each option package. best bet is to look at the pins in the conector and make sure its unused, just look to see if its full of crap if so, just stick it somewhere out of the way

most likelly, ford has a small issue with these, i see 3.0 12v tauruses weekely, if tou have a manual trans make sure its not the pilot bearing (see if the noise changes with the pedal), if not then theres your prob. how did everyone else time these? if they are out a little bit it will run ok...

lol its chicken(8) but its ok, 97hmmmmmmmm here ya go, if it worked with the door in one poss,i put my money on the harness through the door jam

what year ill throw out some diagrams

mine has them OEM, painted bumper rusting around all the damn holes, not to mention the original owner backed into something and squished the lr corner

yup iac, and i believe its on the very top of the intake (under the cover)

yup i want i want, even all the right color (as mine:D)

south of rockford, next to byron (most seem to know where that is) on 72 at the other end of the world

i aint got much money (just bought explorer LOL) but if its cheep im in

k well my photobucket wont let me log in, but on my 00 5.0 (diff but i could show you where mine is)the DPFE is to the left (driverside) of the egr mounted to the back of the intake manafold all you see is a black rectangle with a gray 3 pin oval connector

poss when and where you thinkin?