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Did the shop adjust the bands?

My first guess would be the vacuum motor.....probably the arm that attatches the door to the motor

The idle wasn't too bad before I cleaned the IAC but it did improve somewhat after. I was looking for a solution to an intermitant no start in extremly cold temperatures. Also my Explorer is an '03 4.0L .....I have read of earlier models having IAC valve problems as well.

The answer for me was to clean my Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. I also cleaned my Mass Airflow Sensor again. No problems since.....that was a couple of months ago and we drove through -20 weather turning the engine off at gas stations and leaving the vehicle off overnight at a hotel and it...

Blend door pushes open floor door Anyone figure this out? I finally figured out that the blend door appears to have a tab that pushes on the top of the floor/console duct door and opens it when the blend door is opened all the way (full hot) not sure what this was supposed to...

Having same issue.... Did you ever get this issue resolved/figured out? I have been having the same issue on and off for a few winters....wait a few min and try starting again will usually start. Sometimes holding accelerator to floor while cranking appears to help....which doesn't make total...

No difference in parts between the s and w except the 2nd and od gearing. I think that Ford put the 5R55W into some 4wd and the 5R55S into some 2wd rangers and explorers starting in 2002...... Solenoid block will NOT interchange between 5R55S/W and 5R55N even though they appear similar they are...

5R55S/W tranny parts are the same the N uses quite a few different parts....don't know about solenoid packs between S/W and N

did you replace both sides wheel bearings? Maybe it's coming from opposite side I had a simmilar problem once and it ended up being a rock stuck in the cliper assembly frame on backside of wheel (not between rotor and pads but between rotor and frame of the caliper).

So what was the issue with your engine?

just throwing this out there....if you do your own flush i.e. cut tranny cooler lines and put a rubber hose on the side that returns coolant to tranny into a bucket of new fluid and put a rubber hose on the line that goes to the cooler into an empty bucket....then woudn't that just cycle in new...

Jack up the front end and grab the tire.....hands at 9 and 3 and wiggle wheel oneside toward you other side away and back again....see if you have play i.e. wheel wobbles (note: if you only jack up one front wheel at a time you will eliminate the chance of steering play) If you have play side to...

When mine broke I couldn't keep it in the hot position without having fan speed at 3 or 4 all the time....just a heads up that it may flip back to cold when you start it if it has enough back pressure. You might want to show your wife how to do this incase the door flips back and she doesn't...

that's wierd....I can see the pictures on two different computers. here are the direct links: http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l561/hobbitak/5R55WS/4-1.jpg http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l561/hobbitak/5R55WS/2-1.jpg...

Here are the resistance check and PCM location information....sorry it took me so long.

I'm sorry 8nm is actually 71 in lbs

scanner took a crap....trying to scan a couple of pages from my ATSG 5r55s/5r55w tech manual hopefully I get it to work soon

Helps to rule out a few things like broken bands and servos....although it still could be servo bore wear that is allowing fluid to bypass the servo and causing shifting issues. The solenoid block theory looks more promising if you can still shift into all gears

Check the codes as well as doing a resistance test on the ecm connector from the transmission. this should give you a good idea if the problem is the solenoid block. Does the transmission shift into all 5 gears (ie do you still have OD)? ---If you can't find any documentation on how to do...

Exactly! If you are driving in the mountains, against a headwind or much of anything more than flat land with that much weight with the overdrive on you may be asking your transmission to do a lot more up/down shifting than is really necessary. Pay attention to your tranny temp and maybe slow...

pretty much had the same symptoms....replaced both overdrive (the OD servo was definitely broken....came out in two pieces) and intermediate servos with the enhanced o-ring versions mentioned above. Have a few thousand miles on it now and transmission is still shifting fine. You might want to...

I doubt it's a big deal...I don't think the adjuster assembly is under any hydraulic pressure so the leak shouldn't affect shifting. What I would look into is whether the backing nut for the adjuster is tight and if it is not than the next thought is if the band adjuster may need to be...

not all Ford specific codes (i.e. some tranny codes) will be displayed via generic code readers, as in the ones that autozone etc. use.....worth a try but not a guarantee. Let us know what you come up with and I'm sure some one here can help direct you in the right direction (good...

I haven't pulled much with my '03 4.0, but the things that jump to mind are: 1 don't tow while in Over Drive (use the OD off selector switch) 2 wouldn't be a bad idea to have a transmission fluid temp guage installed to monitor conditions as you are towing 3 if you don't already have the...

8mm socket for pan and filter bolts solenoid body is held with 8 #30 Torx head bolts The specs for installing solenoid body are: torque all of the solenoid body bolts to 89in.lb. (8 N.m), using a criss-cross pattern BTW - did you already ohm out the shift solenoids? Why do you believe that the...