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that is correct. been about a year now and i still have no issues.

well first ill say i found the problem. i figured it was the u joint since i replaced them last year with the cheepest ones i could get because i was in the middle of a road trip and strapped for cash. this morning when i got off of work i put the front tires on the curb and took a look at the u...

yea im going to before i leave work. no way im gonna try to drive 100 miles home like this. i work at a hotel so i might just have to spend a few days here till i get it fixed. if it turnes out to be the front driveshaft would i be able to drive the truck with no risk of damage to the front end...

wow this thread is 7 years old. simply amazing. and thanks for all the gas saving tips just took off my roof rack and gained 1mpg up to 21 mpg now.

OK i have a weird vibration coming from what feels like the front end. Just replaced balljoints/tierods 2 months ago. i only feel the vibe when im going 55+mph. the weird thing is if i hit a bump on the highway that compresses the suspension it goes away until the truck stabilizes and then it...

mine does and i cant figure out what the sound is. also i only hear it in the warmer months

try using paint stripper it should be strong enough to knock off the black stuff which im assuming is break dust. but wont hurt the rim

man i really wish i had found out about that harness before i burned out my lom it would have saved me a lot of headache.

what type of harness?

im three months out and my lights are still working like a charm. also i noticed right when i did the bypass that the headlights seemed just a little brighter.

normally not responding to your own thread means you got it fixed. well i shot all 3 locks with pb and nothing i got some metal flakes so im guessing that the locks are toast. ill just deal with parking the truck close to the house so i can hear the alarm. unless somone in the chicago area...

on my way to autozone now

damn any idea how much that is gonna run me?

i cant unlock any of my doors or my rear hatch with the key. i never noticed this problem before(been using the keyfob). the key goes in and out freely but i cant turn the key at all any ideas of how to fix this.

i had the same problem check ur rear heat. when i turned mine off it went away. Problem fixed :D

a lot of people are talking about the scissors inside the door im gonna have to take a look at this in the next few days or whenever it warms up here in chicago

first of all my handle is really stiff. the power lock is no longer working to lock it. and my driver side latch is stuck. its really cold so i dont want to spend the time it would take to figure it out so id love to get some help on this one id at least like to get the latch fixed. when i close...

well anyone know a shop in chicago cuz im trans stupid. one thing i didnt mention is that my od light started flashing when i dropped second gear

About 2 months ago my ex stopped going into second gear im wondering if i replace the valve body will that fix it. and how much of a pain is it to replace the valve body

I had the same problem with mine being burned out so i just bypassed the headlight portion of my lom. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2100422#post2100422

im not sure if this will work on explorers of other years the schematic was only for 95-96 i think

I updated accordingly. Hope this helps yall.

i was assuming everyone knows how to properly connect the wires(eg. soldier and cover with heat shrink) and yes after you join these wires you need to reconnect the lom so that you dont use anything else(all i had problems with was my headlights). mine is still connected to all but those 4...

i have the schematic and i did it myself. it works perfectly

Ok so finally we have relief. I got a chance to talk to a ford technician and he got me the schematic for the wiring. He showed me how to bypass this damned module. All you need to do is cut 4 wires and reconnect them. The only thing u lose is ur computer will no longer tell you that one of ur...