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I can’t remember what colors, but there is a wire that goes to the cylinder for the key chime. A little piece in the cylinder is actuated by the key, which I think grounds that wire? I can’t remember, it’s been a while. But it doesn’t mean the correct key is in—just that a key is in. It’s...

Looks like it. How old is the pump?

Not sure if you have a SOHC or OHV, but my SOHC was sitting at 55psi idle with about 50k mi on it. How is it at 2000rpm?

This was posted 14 years ago

The reasoning is two-fold: to allow the hydraulic to easily compensate for the initial break-in and chain stretch, and to minimize the number of variables. If you go straight to mechanical tensioners and there is an issue, was it your timing component install? Or was it something you screwed up...

Take it somewhere else

The only reason I mention the shoes…mine started chirping as they were disintegrating.

How old are the CV axles? How’s the front driveshaft? When was the last time you checked or replaced the parking brake shoes?

Are you sure it’s the driveshaft u-joints? The noise will be much faster than wheel speed…roughly 3-4 times as fast. I’d still change those due to age, so I guess you can fire up the parts cannon on this job and see if the noise goes away.

Most chain stretch occurs early in an engine’s life. It isn’t purely linear. And if it stretches a little bit over the course of 50-100k, you’ll hear it. Then…snug the tensioner a little. Fixed. Remember, the purpose of the tensioner is to just take up excess slack. Excess slack calls itself...

Anyone know the TPS voltage or % required to command flood clear mode?

Nothing to pull. I’m talking about the heater control valve in the engine compartment. It’s controlled by a vacuum actuator. You’ll be able to see plain as day if it’s working

^^^ Air compresses. You’ll end up with stiffer steering and vibration. Take it on some dirt or similar and/or drive around slow, working the steering from lock to lock a whole lot

Make sure it’s actuating when you change the temp setting. You’ll be able to see the arm move

About tree fiddy

Even with the rod, you’ll still have chain slap on start—just not as bad, or for as long.

yeah, hyd tensioners rely on springs to take up slack on start, until oil pressure builds. That’s when chain slap tends to occur, eventually shattering the old cassettes and guides. The mechanical tensioner mod ensures the chains are ALWAYS properly tensioned.

If you’re only getting startup rattle, I highly recommend going to mechanical tensioners before you shatter a cassette. If you’re getting rattle at idle and above…the damage has probably already been done.

My ‘98 engine didn’t have the rod from the factory. My ‘10 did. So it was added sometime after ‘98. It comes in the 00M12 kit, so it is designed to be added to engines without it. If you don’t have the rod installed, I’d recommend installing it if you want to run hydraulic tensioners. That...

Mine started rattling around 120k, and was still rattling (more loudly) when I pre-emptively replaced the engine at 202k. Some will last a really long time. Others won’t.

I wouldn’t, unless you have numbers showing your compression going. These engines have solid bottom ends. If you had 300-400k then that would be a diff story. Yeah hyd tensioners are normal. Mechanicals are an upgrade guys do here. Yes, you can pull that oil plug easily to check for the rod if...

Fatal hatch damage isn’t always fatal. I was able to repair this…only indication is one of the tail lights is ****ed out slightly

That rod, as far as I know, became standard in later job SOHC engines. I got my SOHC out of a 2010 ranger, and it already had that rod installed in it. With 36k on it, I doubt it was added by someone. The idea is that it allows the tensioners to pressurize more rapidly. If you plan to use...

We have some guys on here who like Melling, I think. Me? Ford OEM or nothing. This isn’t a job you want to do twice. But once cry once. They aren’t Motorcraft parts, they’re Ford OEM (blue/white box)—dealer parts. Avoid Cloyes unless you want to grenade your engine.

It’s under the hood, in one of the hoses that goes to your heater core. Black plastic valve with a vacuum controlled actuator. Check it for proper function