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junkyard is the cheapest.. they are still avail from dealers... about 70 bucks

some of the best closeups of the RA bracket and its rivets I have ever seen.. might want to add, that is the left side, if your working on the right side, look at the pics with a mirror (nearly identical, just reversed)

well, the shift motor takes the t-case THRU 4 hi on the way to 4 lo. but, yes, you need to be stopped, with trans in neutral (and with stick, clutch pedal pressed). another bad switch could be the clutch triple function switch (also has the neutral start switch on it).

well, you do get the added effect of replacing the single most neglected fluid in a vehicle.. brake fluid! yes, it does need to be flushed out occasionally.

for a manual trans?? that would be news to me.

you dont HAVE to put the t-case in neutral to tow, just the trans. Have the t-case in 2-HI, and with your good hubs (your statement), you should be good to go. NOTE: your odometer will indicate distance traveled, its driven off the speedo cable (on the output of the t-case for the rear...

you can fix just one side for now to get thru, but if one side is loosing ball joints or tie-rod ends, might as well figure the other side is just about to poop on ya too.

ball joints, tie rod ends, Radius arm bushings. pretty much everything in the front end.. oops, forgot to add wheel bearings too. if you dont feel confidant checking it all, take it to get it aligned (should be inexpensive, like 40-50 bucks), and have them inspect it while on the rack...

I know about all the people who dont know how to drive in snow, even up here where I live, a full 70% of the people dont know how to drive in the snow. they rely on 4wd, ABS, and most of all, ***** when they can't go anywhere when the road is covered in ice..

Corkey, I was gonna add just about word for word what you just said.. even the part of the bad rockers.. on MY truck too!! The cam sensor issues are a possibility.. but there is also a crank position sensor on these too.. thats much more exposed to the elements also. Cam position sensor or...

hehe, thats a nearly daily occurance for me during the winter where I live.. my old 92 has bad front u-joints (so loose you can move the axle shafts about 3/16 inch in any direction you choose), 2 different size street tires (non of which are any good), and snow from the Lake MIchigan snow...

if the maf and tb were not matched (ie, a 4.0 maf, with a 5.0 tb) you can cause some major computer confusion. one of the main inputs to the computer for controlling spark and fuel (timing and amount in fuel's case) is the maf. they are CALIBRATED to the tb thats expected on the vehicle (not...

maybe water or other moisture from the drain line?

well, several things will lead to ping.. 1. boosting (turbo or supercharging), without proper tune and fuel. 2. advanced ign timing (not much we backyard guys can do with a DIS on this one) 3. poor quality fuel (as noticed when higher octane is ran, ping goes away) 4. increased...

what are you heating with?? a plain propane probably dont have the guts to get enough heat into the damn thing, due to all the metal around it that soaks heat up like a sponge. try MAP or if avail acyteline (ok, so I can't spell it, you get the drift) map is great, hotter than propane...

the vast majority of battery drains are stuck light switches (dome lite), leaky diodes in the alt (while it still will charge, one diode of the dozen or so it has can drain the battery when engine off), and of course my favorite one to rag people on.. left the headlights on..

well, there is a thought here.. there is a suppression diode inside the relay (to kill the induced spike when the relay is released). maybe it was leaky??

parting out, nothing wrong, sounds fishy?? I personally would walk away, fast. if that vehicle is hot, or otherwise not his to do with as he pleases (think of wife's vehicle in an ongoing divorce here), then you want NOTHING to do with it. there maybe hidden VIN's on the parts (even seats...

most 3 jaw pullers will break/bend the ps pulley. need the special ps pulley remover (the pulley has a small groove in it specifically for the puller)

well, the computer CMOS battery analogy kinda works, but the amount of data (and therefore the size of the NVRAM) is hugely different. Most cmos settings are saved in a measly 1 or 2k (thats the largest CMOS ram I have ever seen in a pc). The data saved in the EEC is probably on the order of...

the most common cause of battery drain is a bad diode or 2 in the alt. Note: even with a couple bad diodes, the alt will still charge the battery!! BUT, it will also cause early battery death as well. another thing to look for would be corrosion someplace. not only does it hinder proper...

ford claims 10 miles/20 mins.. but in reality, its ALWAYS tweaking the curves

the EEC will ALWAYS draw power when the battery is connected. Just HOW much I dont know. the EEC has to keep its memory alive (for not only the stored trouble codes, but also the learned parameters), so there will always be a current draw. there may be other circuits drawing too...

I will echo all the checks that where previously mentioned.. BTW, a GOOD alignment shop will check all that BEFORE trying to align it. 3 different SIZE tires can cause a handling problem, but same size should be ok.

RA = Radius Arm.. the thing in the pic thats posted. one on each side of the car. Locktite.. a thread locker (different colors are different strengths) used to keep nuts and bolts from working themselves loose over time. used allllll over the place in the automotive industry. a big ass...