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that is awesome...

Best thing I ever done was doing away with that nonsense.

I changed ALL the switches, same thing.. I can check it with the voltage meter and got 13 volts on both pins with the engine running.. I give up, I have the right current all the way to the motor just like the other side but yet the motor wont turn.. Its haunted or just not meant to be

yes, does the same thing... I just checked the voltage on the passenger side and has 10.06 on both pins, slightly less but it works perfectly

I been trying to fix my left rear window motor. I have 3 different motors and I can not believe ALL 3 are doing the same thing. It will roll up like a champ but wont roll down. I took it back out and plugged it in , it won't turn the motor but that one way.. Its HARD for me to believe all 3...

pull the codes... even if the CL isn't on.. From my understanding there could be stored codes

Mine has been doing the same thing for over a year now since I bought it... I tried and tried to fix it.. I don't look at it anymore. I put a manual gauge in,, It fluctuates SOME but not near as much as the factory gauge does.

You know if what you say is true yo may have just touched on the issue. When people go a while with bad brakes then replace it. They hard stop a few times trying out the new brakes not realizing they messing up the seat. I didn't do any hard stopping because I never do anyway . I'm a slow...

It works on mine but I have yet to get in a place I need it..... 4 hi carries me everywhere I need to go

I have 2 sets of auto hubs I will never use.. 1 set I know it good, the other set MAY just need cleaning.. I kept them, somebody from here or elsewhere may want them one day

I would almost bet money its wired up wrong... that fits..... How did it run BEFORE the tune up? Like does now or better?

I bought the pads from Advance Auto and I didn't have much money so I'm sure they are the cheap stuff........ I will upgrade next pay day and see what that does for me

Worst design Ive ever seen of a fuel filter... I completely changed the set up with compression fittings.. I now buy a filter for 7250 Case International tractor for my replacements.. takes me longer to get the shield off than it does to disconnect the and change the filter..Best thing I ever...

Mine did the same thing.. The clips fixed the rattle for a while now its right back doing it

I put new plugs and wires today.. Its suppose to rain tomorrow, I will see if it helped..I was hoping to find some cracks or breaks in the old wires, I didn't.. I got a parts truck with a coil on it... I will swap it if it continues and see if that helps

Any ideas on this? I went through some ruts full of water yesterday going to a deer stand and it done the same thing. It cuts out when you accelerate.. You can only run about 35 or 40 until whatever it is dries back out. No light, no codes

no codes..... I'm proud that fixed it because its locking like charm every time now

Torque Converter

Did you burp the cooling system? Mine still swings a little but not as much as your desribing

I finally got around to cleaning the MAF, last week.. I been busy as a cat covering up ...............never mind... anyhow It fixed my CEL and get this. My TC now locks up perfectly!! Is this a Co-Inky-Dink or would a dirty MAF cause it not to lock?

depends

It runs fine now that its dry, should change the coil pack ? wires ? both? avoid pools of water?

I'm kinda wondering if I have some bad spark plug wires. I may buy a new set tomorrow and if that doesn't fix it , I guess I change the coil pack off my 92 parts truck. It idles fine, but if you try and get above 1500 RPM it cuts out spits sputter pops. No CEL , no codes

about my explorer that causes to act just like the old distributor Fords would do? I just went to town , ran fine on the way. I got almost to the store and met a car, it forced me into a big puddle of water. It splashed all over the hood and windshield, it was GOOD splash. Well now it acts just...

The Anti rattle clips worked like a charm