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Apologies, my 2006 XLT Ranger 4x4. 8.8 Rear end, 4.10 gears.

Thanks. Ford spec for my rear end is 80w90. I don't have the FX4 II package, so I don't need 75w140. Also don't need the XL-3 friction modifier as I don't have limited slip. If I had some noise, I'd consider using 75w140 as Ford recommends it in some TSBs applicable to other vehicles...

IMHO if you had a short in the starter motor circuit, you would have blown the main fuse. Since your relay clicks, and you haven't noted total loss of electricity, I doubt it's a short. It could be minor arcing somewhere that's bleeding current away from the starter motor... but not enough to...

Wanted to post an update. I've been measuring temperatures since my last post and they seem to be settling in the 160-180 degree range, depending on driving type and ambient temperature. I still don't have any hums, leaks, or whine so I think all is well. Perhaps the brief increase in...

Don't disagree. I have Ford PremiumCARE on my '13, and I also had it on my Ranger. It pays for itself on the first major failure, e.g., PTU, water pump, etc. It paid for itself on my ranger as I had a water pump failure as well as some premature axle seal failures. Worth considering and...

So it sounds like by pure luck you could catch it early by observing coolant levels, weephole inspection, milky oil, glycol in a UOA... Not much can be done until it's too late...:dunno: I wonder if the pump design could be improved by insulating the bearing seal from the crankcase, similar to...

I'll spring the trap. Is a used oil analysis (UOA) cost prohibitive or cheap insurance? :dunno: Here are some thoughts. Assuming all the repair work is done by the dealer, it's well discussed that an engine replacement is about $7000, and a water pump replacement is $2000, a difference of...

Anyone thought about getting a UOA identifying % glycol in the oil? I posted a similar question here. Water pump failure leads to dead engine

This is a fantastic discussion. Wanted to chime in on this briefly as I now have 85k miles on my '13. I'm trying to avoid the paranoia of a sudden engine failure by taking proactive steps for piece of mind. Has anyone else caught early failure from a blackstone UOA analysis? Here's one of...

I'm curious if anyone has any insight on normal differential operating temperatures for a stock 8.8 with 4.10 gears. I replaced my rear pinion seal and U-joints this weekend and took care to ensure everything was exactly reassembled, including indexing everything. I did not check the pinion...

Yes. Sometimes when I fill up and my gas tank is under vacuum I observe an "air relief" or burping noise from the filler neck. I think this is normal.

That's why I only buy Motorcraft. I have yet to encounter a defective part from them. I've been using them exclusively for several years now for everything from fluids to filters to parts. I've used other parts that either lead to a poor fit, e.g., air filters, or even poor performance, e.g...

Just got the factory rotors turned for $50 for all four. That's cheaper than a new Motorcraft BRRF rotor FWIW.

I'm nearing the 100k recommended coolant flush and fill milestone for my '13 and am reaching out for some flush and fill tips from 5th gen DIYers and Techs. I've searched around the forum and can't seem to locate a discussion on this if there is one. IIRC the FSM flush and fill procedure...

Perfect! Let's tackle one at a time. Others, please chime in if you have more experience, but below is a systematic approach that makes sense to me. 1. There are a few things that come to mind regarding your door ajar and dome light. There should be a door jamb switch beneath the A-pillar...

Welcome to the forum! I would suggest getting the system pressure tested. I'm not sure if your local auto parts store lends out pressure testers but I just checked Harbor Freight and their tester kit is listed at $90. You may be able to find a ford specific kit cheaper on Amazon. When under...

My Owner's manual for my '13 talks about using E85 since it's a flex fuel model. IIRC it advises against abrupt changes in ethanol content - i.e., don't switch from E0 to E85 in one tank; gradually switch by using E10 and E15 over the course of several tanks so the computer can adjust. Maybe...

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you have several issues. Some of them could be related to each other. I have a few suggestions, and a lot of others have gobs of experience here, but before I go on, may I ask how electrically and mechanically inclined you are? Do you have access to wiring...

THAT'S they key once you've confirmed coolant in the oil.

What I do whenever I do a brake job for the first time on a vehicle is I buy new rotors beforehand. I take the rotors that come off the vehicle to my local brake shop to be turned. If they can, I keep them for the next brake job down the line to eliminate downtime. If not, I've got new rotors...

With your truck I don't know if I'd want to know the carfax! Don't ask don't tell! :eek:

PM me with your VIN, or post if you're comfortable.

I had a slow leak in my Ranger that I thought was the water pump based on the sludge around the weep hole. Pressure tested it and it turned out to be a cracked thermostat housing. Huge pressure drop when tested and coolant was bubbling out of the crack. I would expect a very slow pressure...

I think the brake pads on my '65 300SE are the same from the factory over 60 years ago. Not sure of the material but they work great to stop a 4500lb car :D. I have about 75k miles on it. I usually stick with OE. The parts guy at my dealer says the "F" in the parts prefix indicates OEM...

My opinion is that this is an XLS. That appears to be an earlier model XLT badge placed in the wrong spot. The correct badge would have the same lettering as the "Explorer" badge and located on the passenger side of the lift gate (that's how it is on my '01). Also it appears that you have the...