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That is a pretty big gap. We're (my son's) Selling 2009 AWD now. I got a new SUV and he wanted my old one. His V8 has 228k Km on it and runs smooth without issues. We've got new plugs in the glove box when we bought it. But didn't see the need to swap as power, mpg, idling etc all normal. Some...

If you have DRL module. It can do it when its failed. Simply unplug it, usually located up front on a cross member near a head lamp fixture.

that was a different engine than the new V8 used in 09 and 10 years. Yeah, we're using Pennzoil Utra Synthetic in my son's exclusively with figures crossed.

If any in this group are Krown or Rust Proof treated regularity then you should be ok. We have to do it here in Ontario as well. Bottom of tail gate, doors and rocker panels are the first to got if its not been done.

2010 next 2009 with V8 4.6L & AWD Only. Scratch everything else. The why's are in the forum if you want to spend the time going over years of discussions. 2010 was the last year of the true Explorer thats why for the year

My son has gone back home. He'll have to do that testing. I did all the work to this end on it and with sound connection it should be working. No reason for it not to be working that I can see. For others wondering. The drivers side is -ve and other is +ve. Both etching sides are easily...

Ok, to confirm the results. I metered from the grd stud to the +ve, then the window etching bus for the Positve power. OK -ve etching to +ve also good >14VDC With engine off no power on window I ohmed across the heating array. +ve to -ve etchings and got very low resistance so the heating...

Hmm, I have various meters. I was using an old analogue meter on 15VDC range and it swung over. Almost to 15V so the fraction is irrelevant. i have digital meter with DC Amp range 10A max Nothing higher though. I'll do some testing. Its my son's SUV and looking for assistance.

From the stud and lug both ways. Voltage is there at the window but not warming. I'd have to disconnect one side to Ohm the grid and refraining from that at this time. The post/stud is the part secured to the window and appear normal. Originally the negative was floating loose so I felt securing...

Its +4C and it is not getting warm enough to feel. I am not sure is the windshield is heating. I know there is over 14VDC across it from my meter.

Sums it up, higher trim builds as well but for power train etc as stated above is by far the best way to got. What we considered before buying one. These engines require regular oil changes and we've used Synthetic since picking it up as well.

Checked mine and found the ground side lug very loose. Could not really tighten and it popped off a weird stud. Power across the grid. Its quite windy and feeling it warming up wasn't confirmed as happening. I pushed the fiction lug over the stud and its tight enough to conduct the current...

I figured it out. Failure is not an option!!! There is a plastic clip on top over the shaft which would keep it from receding in. Shaft was rusted and pitted as well. I ended up using my vise to press the shaft out the back against the casting where there aren't mounting tabs which would snap...

Well removing the motor after the wiper arm and nuts was not an issue. All came off without a fight. i got the motor on my bench with the plate off (held by T20 screws). Internally it looks fine, still viable grease in it. Although the shaft itself is going to be the issue. I cannot see how it...

Yeah, I figured it should I know the motor works. Just seized up from our weather over the years. They aren't sealed or lubricated for our climate and/or others.

Well this is a 2009 Explorer. I doubt it applies and doubt its an identical system in this generation as well. If it is then it maybe familiar having done a 2002 many years ago.

I did an 02 Sport my son had before this. This is his latest build and its happened again. I am always wary of dealing with glass mounted systems. Thx for the reply. I get the task of fixing it. LOL

I have searched and all motor issues are for 2nd Gen and arm removal that came up. I don't know if this build uses a tapered shaft as I had seen mention. We got the motor going with manual assist and powering on but once stopped a while I cannot move on its own. I was looking for pointers on...

Jeeps aren't what they used to be. When Chrysler was running things Jeeps were built robust, yet things went wrong but the power train and suspension had BALLS. I had 2002 Grand Cherokee and ran it up to 300k in KM. Then sold it running great. Its hard to find new vehicles well built any more!!

School of Hard Knocks teaches us to check the simple stuff first. Even 3 times to be beyond certain. Assume nothing until its verified beyond question. good to hear you got it. That was close...

It should be first to verify 100%. The ABS sensor cables. Are they plugged in properly and all the way. Thats where you should start assuming the error was not on before the bearings were replaced. Thats what we're assuming.

I had a look at the RAD today before my son was going to go home. I removed the reservoir since it was wet under it to inspect. Turns out the top tank plastic has a long crack in it running across two of the min ribs of the cap to the one at either end of that. I tried to clean and dry it to do...

Rent or borrow a Pickup or Equivalent with a hitch already installed which is suitable to the task. Ambient temp will also be a factor. Winter time keeps subsystem much cooler whereas a hot summer day could be catastrophic and needs to be considered. As above you ride looks mint. I wouldn't...

06 to 09 might have incurred changes. There are a lot of associated part number mentioned. I might have to look at a Ford part site for a number of the oem RAD for this build. If there is a HD cooling RAD it would be on this for sure. Its not a job I'd do or pay some to do twice.

This isn't the time of year I'd want to do it but looks like its going to need to be done. We've been topping off the rad even after downgrading the Rad cap to a lower pressure one as recommended in many older thread. The rear heater hose clamp was leaking. That was fixed and resolved. The...