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Air intake and a 2.5" exhaust is always a good start. These mods appear to work best as a pair. +1 for the electric fan. Increases available hp and mpg :thumbsup:

Thanks for the concern, but no worries. I researched the hub bearing failures on here before removing the diff. I'm using the cv outers in the hubs. 2000 miles and running strong. I'm afraid it will be in this configuration until I can replace my front pinion bearings :(

For the 97 model year there should be a cv joint on the TC end of the drive shaft. Remove six bolts and you're done. It won't have the slow creep in park if thats the 5.0 tc problem you're referring to...that only applies for awd, not autotrac 4wd. I've been driving with no front driveshaft or...

Flex-a-lite 33054 VSC for the fan http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D33054&N=700+4294924500+4294839058+4294860934+115&autoview=sku

Dead Link Removed and http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238214 3" body lift, TT, Warrior shackles, and add a leaf you clear those tires. How do you like the exhaust? Do you have any pictures of it?

I'm using a fan from a mid 90's crown vic. It's 19" across and covers most of the radiator without a shroud. Very thin and easy to mount on the radiator. $25 at the local junkyard, but they can also be found for $115 on rockauto.com

I "think" you could just ask a moderator to move it for you, just ask one. Or you could start a new thread with a link to this one...

Sounds like the hub to me. Personally I would stay away from the $80 hub its probably cheaply made and not worth the trouble. $177 isn't a big investment when these things typically last 100k+ miles. O'Reilly's carries the same part as Rock Auto for $187 if you can't wait for it. Autozone also...

It's that entire assembly with the hub, bearings, and abs sensor. You have to replace the whole thing which is much more expensive than a rebuildable hub. The diff bearings are more involved to replace but cost $10-15 compared to $200ish for a hub. The hubs are more common to fail, however.

Did you check the unit bearing for play when you replaced the cv axle? I've had a similar problem but I've been to afraid to check it yet $$$. Could also be a bearing in the diff I guess.

It sounds like it could really be the shift rail bore. The shop could have done a poor repair job. The case holes for the helical ramp can get pretty bad from what I understand as well as the ramp itself. I wouldn't doubt if one of these parts were to blame for the extra play in the shifter...

Bummer dude... This sounds like it could be the shift rail bore as well. http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182071 and http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182072 Mine used to do pretty much exactly what you're talking about before I had it rebuilt. Took the shop two...

If you can't find a plug that will fit, you put a silicone intake coupler over that section of pipe and be done with it. Also spectra performance makes a kit with lots of different sized plugs for use with their intake kits and such.

To test it you could do the bwn or disconnect the brown wire from the t-case. If it stays in 2wd with the brown wire disconnected then its some kind of controls issue. If it stays in 4wd then I would assume its a problem internal to the case. As far as the shift motor goes, it is not uncommon...

The transfer case used in the Control Trac 4wd system is only shifted between 4lo and 4high by the shift motor. The transfer case clutch engages and disengages the front drive shaft for 2wd/4wd action, the shift motor has no bearing on this at all. Sounds like what my sport did last fall when...

On my 97 I used to get around 18-19 highway but I'm lucky to get that now. Recently I have averaged around 16-17 on the highway going 75. City isn't too bad... around 15 mpg unless I'm on campus and then the 20 mph limit with stop and go traffic kills me... I have tried everything I can think...

Drivers side on the SOHC is a piece of cake. It's the passenger side that is a PITA. Save yourself some headache and go through the wheel well...much easier than getting at it from above. Make sure you replace your wires too . Use Motorcraft plugs and wires, avoid bosch plugs and autozone...

If you do the brown wire mod with a lighted switch you will know if and when it is going into 4wd.

The 93 explorers only came with the OHV engine. It's the 97 that you need to find out about. It came with both the SOHC and OHV engines.

Sounds good man. Just remember that the brown wire mod shouldn't be used for doing burnouts and the like. This can damage the transfer case clutch, which the brown wire mod disables. I think its mentioned in the thread, however.

You'll want to add the switch somewhere in the cab. The switch doesn't just disable auto 4wd, it disables 4wd high and low as well. When the brown wire switch is engaged you can select 4wd auto, high, and low as usual. When it is disabled, however, 4wd auto and 4wd high will both function as 2wd...

That's your transfer case for the 4wd. Its after the transmission.

But a couple of cans. Put one in the gas tank and another in the intake. Putting seafoam in the intake will clean out a lot of junk but there are a few ways to do it. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238581 I would start reading that but its really up to you where you...

Turdle, where did you get that front drive shaft adapter for the t-case?

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0128 I would start there... Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you could also check to see if the thermostat is sticking open by feeling the radiator hose. It should not be getting any coolant flow until the engine is near operating temperature.