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'02 4.0L Explorer stalling when shift into D or R.

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by Reál Schein, July 1, 2016.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^
  1. Reál Schein

    Reál Schein New Member

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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2002 Explorer
    Recently, I've bought a used Explorer with 152,000 miles on it. The truck was routinely serviced at the local Ford dealership. I've driven the thing about 3,000 miles and noticed there seems to be a problem when shifting into Drive or Reverse. The truck seems to stall occasionally (about twice a month). When in drive, the gears are as smooth as butter as there is no clunking at all and it reaches 5th gear with ease. It doesn't seem weather dependent since its happened in a great range of temperatures. I don't know much about the truck, but I can say couple of things. It has 4.0L V6 in it which is surprisingly strong. The engine starts up in about half a second every time. Also, I've very recently put in fuel injector cleaner as well to try and solve the problem. I think this helped somewhat since it didn't stall for about a month after I did this. The stalling has come back however. Anybody have any idea what it could be?
     
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  3. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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    Most likely the lock up converter inside the torque converter is getting stuck on.

    They're not too terribly expensive, the problem is the labor because the transmission has to be pulled out to replace it.

    Is it a instant hard stall as soon as you shift? If so that is probably it, if it slowly dies when you shift it more likely some engine management issue (idle air control?)
     
  4. Reál Schein

    Reál Schein New Member

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    When I shift, the RPMs drop way down to about 400 and from there it just varies. Sometimes the car isn't able to recover and just dies, but sometimes its able to recover and all is fine. All happens within about 2-3 seconds. When it does die, the engine starts right back up though.
     
  5. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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    Ya I think this is a engine function issue as it would be a quick lock up if it were the lockup converter doing it. Does the A/C make a difference?
     
  6. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    When did drive by wire come in? (no idle air control). imp
     
  7. drdoom

    drdoom Well-Known Member

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    2004 I think.
     
  8. TechGuru

    TechGuru Well-Known Member

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  9. lincolnshibuya

    lincolnshibuya Active Member

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    I'd clean the throttle body and idle air controller (IAC) first. a failing IAC could stall the engine when at idle (or when shifting, turning..)
     
  10. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    First, thanks to others for Electronic Throttle info. Note Ford Shop Manual recommends against cleaning the throttle body, stating it has a special coating. Mine at 150K had a crusty build-up along the bottom edge of the plate, almost 1/8-inch high. I used LPS-2 to carefully wipe it all away with cloth. That made quite a difference in light off-idle response, the Ex jumped forward instantly! Also, upon starting, RPMs jumped much higher initially, than before.

    Offering this only to share the experience. My original problem remains unsolved: P2106 "TAC Forced Reduced Power" (TAC = Throttle Actuator Control). imp
     
  11. lincolnshibuya

    lincolnshibuya Active Member

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    same is true with throttle body and iac, "throttle body cleaner" is designed for that.. most people clean them anyway. I usually do as part of my maintenance until the old one failed and I replaced it. It lasted maybe 110k+ miles.. throttle body is still original and just this weekend I cleaned my jeep throttle body .
     
  12. lincolnshibuya

    lincolnshibuya Active Member

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    you might need a new throttle body assembly, either the sensor and/or motor is bad. I believe you have the electronic actuator version. not sure if you could buy the motor or the sensor by itself.

    or check this video..

     
    Last edited: July 5, 2016
  13. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for replying. Turns out, I've seen that video. Also turns out that the P2106 is thrown for a whole variety of reasons. Of course, the wording of it sends one to the throttle body first, which I did. Found nothing wrong with it, it functioned properly as I watched the plate move. But, who knows, so I replaced the entire assembly. Same DTC, then I decided PCM, replaced, same problem.

    Then I learned my code reader could not scan ABS codes, so bought an expensive Bosch which can. Got B1342 "ABS Module Malfunction", plus P2106. One site claims the ABS Module is the only one which can throw DTCs without the car actually having been driven. Sent Module to a guy who repairs them, it came back "Main chip bad, not repairable". So learned same year, make, and model used a whole raft of different Modules, many different Ford part numbers, found ONE matching mine on Ebay, it's on it's way.

    Maybe not end of story: Ford Shop Manual states if ABS Module is replaced, the replacement must be "configured" with the vehicle's specific information. I assume that is VIN, for one thing. At this point I'm hoping the fact that a used one already has vehicle info in it, it will work even though my PCM has a different VIN, the right one.

    If yer still interested I'll post results when I get some. The ABS Module is due here Saturday. This has been a long and difficult road, 6 weeks now, frustrated, have even once gotten DTC "Forced Engine Idle". Last straw would be "Forced Engine Shutdown". Once, "Right Front Speed Sensor", replaced it, no change, but never got that DTC again. I have formed the opinion that the video above, and many like it, are merely propaganda. A chewed up Rear Wheel Speed Sensor, as he showed, would thrown a code saying it's bad. He got no such code, as I recall. Anyway, why would free true and correct advise be handed out, when thousands of dollars are at stake for Dealers' incomes?

    Thanks fer reading. imp
     
  14. lincolnshibuya

    lincolnshibuya Active Member

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  15. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    You may be a lifesaver! I've got the laptop, but lack the computer expertise to understand completely. My Bosch scanner has a cord and and USB connection. The user directions encompass nearly 100 pages of text. So, at this point, I still don't know whether I can communicate with my ECUs, whether ABS, PCM, or others.
     
  16. Lecon Chuitt

    Lecon Chuitt New Member

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    I had an issue where I was stalling and when I took it in to have the codes checked it was my left front bearing. The Speed sensor was the problem and I changed out the bearing assembly. This all happened in one day. I stalled at 45 mph, 65 and 20.
     
  17. imp

    imp Well-Known Member

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    Installed used ABS Module, previous warning lamps (4X4 HIGH, BRAKE, Wrench) now off, ABS light remains ON. One DTC: "VIN Mismatched", which obviously was going to happen, as the replacement module came from another Explorer. But, the vehicle runs fine now. imp
     
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  18. Hugh Janus

    Hugh Janus Active Member

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    So what was the solution to the OP's problem? Seems like this thread was hijacked.
     






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