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03 Explorer with 04 4.0 SOHC Engine.

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by MtExplorer Guy, June 2, 2014.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. Joscibo

    Joscibo Active Member

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    Sent you a message.
     
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  3. MtExplorer Guy

    MtExplorer Guy Member

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    Well success, I have installed the timing chains, timed the motor and just waiting for a couple of parts to arrive, Joscibo, has been indispensable in this fix, thank you!

    One thing I will add, if you are doing your first one of these, buy, beg or borrow the OTC kit, makes things a heck of a lot easier, once I had the motor to TDC, I was able to mark the timing lobe on the cam shaft and the oil feed line going across the top of the cam bearing journals, so it made it real easy to make sure everything was in line putting it back together, but you need to make sure and find a way to hold that cam once you take everything apart.
     
  4. Joscibo

    Joscibo Active Member

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    No problem bud glad I was able to help. Hope you get the truck back on the road soon.
     
  5. MtExplorer Guy

    MtExplorer Guy Member

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    I am just wondering, if anyone out there is smarter than I am, of course I took the timing chain cover off and didn't document, which bolt goes where, as we all know that there are different bolts on timing chain covers, which means, some are long and some are short! I should have taken a picture, but unfortunately I didn't, I am wondering if anyone else has taken a picture of the bolt positions before they took the cover off!

    Thanks in advance!
     
  6. MtExplorer Guy

    MtExplorer Guy Member

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    Disregard, I figured the bolts out, but now, I am wondering, the torque values for the timing chain cover, I have an extensive list of values for this engine, but I don't see the timing chain cover mentioned, it however does have values for the Front Engine Cover, which I suspect is the timing cover and it states 14 ft pounds, am I correct?
     
  7. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  8. cross6

    cross6 Active Member

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    Glad to hear it's working out for you. I'm doing the same.

    I lost a bit down the cavity for the rear chain, it fell down towards the jackshaft sprocket area and I can't find it.

    Is that area open to the oil pan? Hoping I can just drop inspection/lower pan and snag it with a magnet.
     
  9. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    block cradle

    The block cradle limits access.
    PrimeOil.jpg
     
  10. MtExplorer Guy

    MtExplorer Guy Member

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    Ok, Crank Shaft Pulley bolt, I have read 41 pounds, then 85 degrees, 37 pounds then 90 degrees, 33 pounds, 80 degrees, which one is correct and who thinks this crap up? Why can't they just give you a final torque value, like in the old days!

    One thing I will add, if you are trying to figure out how to get your balancer on, this is how I did it, A 1 inch diameter deep socket, tap with a 4 pound hammer, lightly, you have room between the rad and the pulley, once you get it in about 1/2 of the way, install the old bolt you took out, then tighten down slowly until you only have the snout sticking out about 1/4 quarter of an inch, then take the old bolt out, install the new bolt and slowly tighten in short intervals, until it is seated and starts the move the engine, grab with your hands and turn back to TDC, and install the wood jig mentioned in this thread, with the long side below the frame and finish tightening.

    Don't even think about the pulley install kit that Autozone lends, it didn't work on this particular pulley, I ended up using the cam shaft holding tool to make sure nothing moved while I tightened it down, now I just need the final setting and the pulley will be back on the engine.
     
    Last edited: July 23, 2014
  11. cross6

    cross6 Active Member

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    37 to 40 lb-ft + 90 degrees should do it.

    Problem with torque is that if they told you 250 lb-ft, just a burr on the thread, or friction on the thread, or loctite, or anything, could greatly make that number far off. You might get 180, 300, 200 all with the same bolt and torque wrench.

    At the lower torque values, friction doesn't mess the numbers up much. So they tell you to go to moderate torque, like 37 to 40 in this case. Then a torque angle. This way everyone goes 90 degrees regardless of frictions or messed up thread or loctite or whatever messing with the reading.

    I use the bolt to install the balancer, too. Even though it freaks some people out. I use the old bolt and lube it with motor oil. Lube under the flange on the head of the bolt and the threads.

    This will let it draw the pulley on without doing (as much) damage to the threads. The reduction in friction also keeps the engine from spinning, usually.

    Then remove the old bolt, stick your brake cleaner straw in and spray out the crank snout threads. Then blow it out with air. Then install your new crank bolt.

    I like to put a little blue loctite for insurance even though ford says it's not needed.

    Glad the wood jug is working out for you!
     
  12. MtExplorer Guy

    MtExplorer Guy Member

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    As you can see, I edited my message and had to go the other way, the wood jig broke! So my beady little mind started thinking and I just used the cam shaft holding tool to stop anything from moving, I knew the engine was timed correctly, so even if it moved a little, it would not make a difference, all done now. I did give it a touch of blue, for good measure, but I am selling this thing when I am done and it will become someone else's problem to deal with, I am going to find one with a V-8 in it, Or I am going to go looking for an Expedition.
     
  13. cross6

    cross6 Active Member

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    Haha yep. When I bought mine I was looking at the same thing in a V8 for about the same price. (Used vehicles)

    Went with the V6 because nicer interior or something. Been regretting not going with the 4.6 for a long time...
     
  14. MtExplorer Guy

    MtExplorer Guy Member

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    Well finally, I have this darn thing back together, replaced all the fluids, double checked wiring and gave it take off notice.

    Fired and ran for about 30 seconds, then quit and now will not fire, I checked spark, has good spark, but I am not smelling any fuel, so I had my wife turn over while I was spraying starting fluid into the manifold, no fire, I am a bit stumped, what should I check next, I have read threads about the Crank Position Sensor the Cam Shaft Sensor, I know the engine is timed correctly, I have the 6488 tool kit and checked to make sure everything was lined up correctly, have no weird grinding or banging.

    I don't know where to go next?
     
  15. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    check your fuel pressure

    I suggest that you check your fuel pressure. If it is good then I suggest that you perform a compression test on at least one cylinder in each bank. That will eliminate incorrect camshaft timing as a possibility.
     
  16. MtExplorer Guy

    MtExplorer Guy Member

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    Street,

    Just did a fuel pressure test on the drivers side rail, 6 pounds with just turning the key on, then I cranked the engine and it jumped to about 57 pounds, which if I am thinking right means the pump is working and the system is getting fuel.

    I will do a compression test when it cools down a bit.

    Thanks.
     
  17. MtExplorer Guy

    MtExplorer Guy Member

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    Well I am done for the season, pulled the right hand valve cover and found that the rear timing cassette is gone as well, so will be parking it, cover it up and finish next spring, I hate these motors, what a piss poor design. This is the second motor in this rig and only has about 80K on it, had the oil changed regularly at 4000 miles, I am meticulous on taking care of my cars, this is just very disappointing.
     
  18. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    fuel stabilizer

    Sorry about the bad news. I suggest that you add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank.
     
  19. Joscibo

    Joscibo Active Member

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    Man that sucks. These engines are a real Bi.ch. I will not dig in to fix I run til they drop and swap out if need be. Find a donor on Carpart I use the newer low mile Mustang motors!
     
  20. dablack

    dablack Member

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    I agree with Joscibo. I ran my 2002 to 185k miles and then it broke a spring. Instead of messing with the old motor I dropped in a newer mustang 4.0L. Faster and cheaper than opening that old motor.

    Austin
     

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