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03 lincoln aviator

Pure sexiness right there. I say clear unless you can pull off pin stripping so it doesn't look ricey. In other words elegant other wise just clear.
 



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Pure sexiness right there. I say clear unless you can pull off pin stripping so it doesn't look ricey. In other words elegant other wise just clear.
Yea i was thinking just doing the ""fins"" or just the ""logo"" kind of like i did my plug covers..im really busy though so probably will just get a clear
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I like that deeep pan. I had mine clear powder coated, and it isn't as good as you'd expect. It made it look like a more dull silver than the original, lighter etc. I wanted to keep it cleaner, so not porous. I have a polished one I don't know what to do with, the bare AL will oxidize of course.
 






Yah that same look would look nice. As far as clear powder coat would definitely make it dull. I think if you shot a adhesion promoter and the a good 2k urethane clear you would be good. My only fear would be that clear is meant to bond with base but a adhesion promoter should allow it to bond. Just go a little heavy on the hardener ratio.
 






Yah that same look would look nice. As far as clear powder coat would definitely make it dull. I think if you shot a adhesion promoter and the a good 2k urethane clear you would be good. My only fear would be that clear is meant to bond with base but a adhesion promoter should allow it to bond. Just go a little heavy on the hardener ratio.
I use clear engine paint with a top coat of dupont clear effects
 






Right on I've only painted panels never any engine accessories
 






Done..just did the logo and clear.

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I like the idea of the clear engine paint. What brand did you use, and are there any reviews to say it will survive for years on the car? I might try that with my polished pan, I'd rather not try having it powder coated, plus that would make the cost even higher for a pan that cost too much to start with.
 






I like the idea of the clear engine paint. What brand did you use, and are there any reviews to say it will survive for years on the car? I might try that with my polished pan, I'd rather not try having it powder coated, plus that would make the cost even higher for a pan that cost too much to start with.
Dupli color engine gloss clear (DE1636) .rusto makes it also..I use it on EVERYTHING and its held up great.helps protect the paint some and makes everything look ""wet""..i typically spray the DuPont clear effects on it also,gives it a multi color speckle in the sun..the blue is dupli color old ford blue (DE1621)

Here is a old video i made of that color combo.

 






That looks great, and it's painted really well. Thanks, I'll try that on my shallow pan, which is for my Lincoln. If it turns out great, I'll buy the polished deep pan for my Black Coal truck, and paint it too.
 






That looks great, and it's painted really well. Thanks, I'll try that on my shallow pan, which is for my Lincoln. If it turns out great, I'll buy the polished deep pan for my Black Coal truck, and paint it too.
Thanks..it looks really really good in the sun..i use that combo on all my engine parts and its all held up really well.
 






Sexy. Turned out really nice and not overdone. You know like some parts you see on say a Honda Civic.
 






Well yesterday was my birthday and i put all my parts in or on my tranny..they all went in easy but the Ypipe had to be removed to get the pan up to bolt in..it clears fine once bolted in..

First impressions . .it doesnt clunk going into reverse and shifts super fast and smooth..i was really exspecting it to shift harder but it doesnt,you can't even tell when it shifts if your not watching the tach...i havent gotten on it yet as im letting it reprogram but have a very bad feeling it didnt fix the slipping..it pulls out and drives just fine but i went up a hill last night and it felt like it was struggling to get up it like it was slipping..i didnt push it or make it downshift though . .

We shall see after some miles and i can get on it,fingers crossed ! !

I also put the 75mm tb on it..it fit no problem but the manifold needs porting..i took and ported the lip/edge down where it mounts but it needs more going into the manifold..the stock tb cant be 70mm,the 75mm is much bigger..ill measure the stock one sometime soon..definitely made it more responsive and louder..

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Well it didnt fix it...im ordering the level 10 kit with the PATC torque converter and having my buddy rebuild it..going to have to wait 2 weeks before i can order the tq converter . .

Guess my rangers motor gets pushed back another month or so
 






Have you done o ring servo bore fix or at least checked overdrive or immediate band adjustment. How about swapping in old solenoid pack unless it didn't ohm out correctly on bench? You most likely have a pressure issue so a complete overhaul would be ideal but a few things to check first
 






Have you done o ring servo bore fix or at least checked overdrive or immediate band adjustment. How about swapping in old solenoid pack unless it didn't ohm out correctly on bench? You most likely have a pressure issue so a complete overhaul would be ideal but a few things to check first
Yea i did the Oring servos first,i did band adjustments after the servos. Back on page 4 when i did the heads..i just swapped to a new solenoids and valve body yesterday . .

I agree it that it sounds like a pressure issue but everything is new except bands,clutchs and tq converter . .

Thing pulls out like a bat outa hell and cruises just fine..only under load and above 3k does it slip

@BrooklynBay have any input or suggestions ?
 






Sorry haven't read the whole thread but I suggested the solenoid because I've heard nothing but bad things about the rebuilts. If your stock ohms out correctly I would at lest try that before the rebuild. I'm no expert but if your not leaking everything for the most part is new that leaves servo bore wear in l/r band or pressure plate. Like I said your better off rebuilding but I'm better off with a new car and thats not feasable right now.
 






Sorry haven't read the whole thread but I suggested the solenoid because I've heard nothing but bad things about the rebuilts. If your stock ohms out correctly I would at lest try that before the rebuild. I'm no expert but if your not leaking everything for the most part is new that leaves servo bore wear in l/r band or pressure plate. Like I said your better off rebuilding but I'm better off with a new car and thats not feasable right now.
The bores weren't really worn at all...i did them at that time as preventive maintenance..i didnt really have any issues at that time..2 weeks later it started slipping

It was slipping with the stock solenoids and the new ones..switching back to the stock ones i wouldn't see doing anything,unless they both are bad but not having any signs of it being bad otherwise
 






Or your valve body could of been the culprit and you got a bad solenoid. Just an idea most likely not the case though. Again I apologize for not reading the thread but any issues with reverse or low gear? There is a separate servo that is not addressed in the servo bore o ring kit. It's inside the pan.
 



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Or your valve body could of been the culprit and you got a bad solenoid. Just an idea most likely not the case though. Again I apologize for not reading the thread but any issues with reverse or low gear? There is a separate servo that is not addressed in the servo bore o ring kit. It's inside the pan.
Its 2wd ..it slips in any gear when under load
 






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