Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by jd4242, July 19, 2016.
Your pistons look a lot like my old ones. lol. Have to wonder how that happens.
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Piston slap..to much or to tight PTW clearance. .also strokers are more "prone" to it..the angle is greater on strokers and when too much PTW the basically rock and you get this on the thrust side..
If the PTW is too tight your get this on both sides,more non strokers tho..or even to much heat can cause the piston to swell and cause tight PTW
For strokers with a 2618 alloy in a aluminum block the PTW should be around .0035-.0040
For a iron block it should be around .0040-.0045
That sounds promising. After I read the previous post, I thought to myself that a piston maker might be able to refurbish those, to a usable size. If the Calico place can do that you will come out very good. They need to be refinished to a size which matches a common bore size you can put into a block. I hope that works, those sounds like nice pistons.
They told me they just sand the high spots,clean them and then put a coating on the skirts..this is as long as the pits or scratches arnt too deep and the piston isnt outa round. .they can coat up to a .0015 thickness. .they agreed the PTW was outa spec
Very good, it sounds like they are aiming for a proper PTW spec. Is that a .030 over piston, are you planning to build yours or a whole different block?
I posted the PTW specs above they call for but yes its critical to get that spec.
Yes its a .030 about max for a WAP block..im not 100% sure on block,was buying a Teksid block but im sending the heads out to livernois to be ported and checked so that will take about 3 weeks so i probably will just use my 03 WAP block now,not much point getting or building another block up for it to sit for 3 weeks
So been on the look out for a 98 cobra timing cover..my current aviator cover no vortech brackets will fit. .my current vortech bracket is for a mch 1 cover but it uses much more pieces than a 98 bracket and also a mach 1 has a one bolt tensioner thats known for tearing belts and when they do tear you have to remove the vortech bracket to change belts..
The 98 cover has a 3 bolt tensioner and uses much less brackets for the vortech, you also can change belts without removing the vortech. .
I got on on ebay yesterday for $58 with a tensioner. .there is problems that i notice right away..the power steering mounts much lower on the 98 cover.this wouldnt be much of a issue but the oil filter and bracket of the aviator is different from a 98 cobra and would hit the power steering pump if it mounts that low...also the 98 also uses a different reservoir mount..
So i want to retain the aviator PS location, reservoir and oil filter so my plan is to cut both covers in the same spot and weld the driverside of the aviator cover to the 98 cobra cover..this will let me use the 98 vortech bracket and everything on the passengers side and use all the aviator stuff on the driverside. .
Here are some pictures to better explain..
Plan to cut both on the red line,weld that upper section of the aviator to the 98 cobra..
The green is the difference in reservoir mounts.
And the blue is the difference in the power steering location. .
Ill make a jig on my welding table to make sure everything lines up and stays aligned when welding..
So, you will make the cuts, mount the two pieces to the front of a motor and tack it up really well before removing and welding solid?
Your threads are always a bit nutty. Never bolt on stuff.
Yea or was going to tack some bolts to my welding table so the cover could be bolted down to the table like if it was attached to the motor..
If it was anybody else I would think, nope not going to work (leaks or cracking).
But being that it is you and knowing how skilled you are from seeing all your past threads and builds, my thoughts are "he can do it".
I like the reasoning you are using too, belts should be fairly easy to remove if needed and they should not shred from contact with other components.
I cant take full credit for the idea. .i got it from someone who had a 5.4 and cut the 5.4 and a 4.6 cover up so he could use the passengers side 4.6 on his 5.4 so his vortech bracket would work,vortech doesnt make a bracket for the 5.4 cover anymore..
I could swap to a 2v oil filter/bracket and then use a 98 cobra power steering pump and Reservoir but thats added cost and who knows if ill run into other fitment issues. I like to keep as much aviator, know it fit type of stuff if possible. .
Ive also decided against the mach 1 lower.after seeing some dyno charts and some mods people have been doing to the aviator, its going to work better for me..again saving money and using stock Aviator parts.
Well the pistons have been checked and cleared..he said they honestly weren't that bad and as long as they were "cleaned" up and no high spots he wouldnt have thought twice about running them as is..
He mic them to make sure they didnt over heat and get outa round,then "smoothed" out the high spots and coated them ""dow corning brand MolyKote D-10-GBL""...he coated the one with the worse pits pretty heavy so that once the coating worn down it would be pretty smooth.he suggested to run them all at the same PTW and break them in good before running alot of boost to prevent the piston from swelling and wearing off to much on the heavy coated ones..i asked if best to hone the cylinder of the heavy coated ones slightly more and he said that the coating wasnt that much thicker to make it outa specs..that they would all wear to a pretty close PTW clearance. .he didnt want the coating to wear to much and then those cylinders become outa spec for PTW for the uncoated part of the piston. .
Also the 2 brand new pistons were 5 grams heavier than the old 6..the old 6 he said it also appears the vlave reliefs had been polished or ""opened"" up some..i assume the guy who i bought them from,his machinist cleaned them up some from where he had contact with his valves..he said they were not any CC different from the old ones though so it wouldnt effect compression at all..he then made all 8 identical and same weight..he said there is some coating on the ring grooves but he didnt want to clean them up,said when i fit/file my rings it would be best to clean them and make the grooves all to my machinist/ring suppliers specs
Charged me $150 including shipping,should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. .saved me a ton of money..
The worse ones but said it will smooth out some and is fine either way..
Say JD, what might be useful to look for on a 2003 Aviator in a JY? I've got one I see here that turned up a couple of weeks ago. I'm hoping to get there some day this week coming up, with a friend. I just checked their site to see what may be there to look at, I did a general search for Lincoln.
Depends what you or anyone else needs..main thing is heads,they are worth a pretty penny.About $500-750,mustang guys eat them up.Everything else really is only worth something if you know someone who needs that part..
I see, the heads for sure but not much else. I think this Pull A Part here has plenty of people who go straight to the heads and intake for a lot of popular Fords. The 302's are quickly without heads/intake. I'll try to get there next week, I'm in the middle of my sister's Wrangler suspension, and my dad is back in the hospital.
The front spindles and control arms can be made to fit the explorers also to get the 13" brakes..i dont know all the details though
Those would probably still be there for a while. Was that for 3rd gen's only, the 02-05's?
Dont know to be honest. .i seen a thread on here somewhere
Found someone parting out a aviator so grabbed some parts..got a 3.73 ls rear end,passenger axle (i tore my boot) and a tailight..paid $140
Going to throw new seals and some carbon fiber clutches in it..should help some ""down low"" i got 3.55 open right now.
Good parts, you will love the 3.73 gears versus the 3.55's. Those should have had 3.73's stock, and 4.10's should be an option. You will not lose any fuel economy with that gear set. The older 4.0 OHV Explorers get best mileage with 3.73's, and the OHC engines run more rpm.
You might want AWD before long if you get the blower going in it.
I found an old Ford tech who had switched dealerships, and he has a newish 3.73 front carrier I've wanted for a long time. I'm planning the limited slip differentials now, before the boost.
No awd..bought this because of 2wd..lol less stuff to break,less weight,better mpg and more power to ground
I really appreciate the AWD in the snow. I bet it will be similar with 500hp.
Well went to install the rear end today and cracked it open to replace the clutches and it was a open diff not a LS...
So now im looking for a ls IRS carrier or just the side gears from a LS IRS carrier? ? Anyone??
I also decided to order bearings and 4.10 gears as this 3.73 open is basically worthless,im going to have to set gears up if i find a LS carrier so might as well just get the gears i want and set them up if i gota set any up
Well i got everything in and went to find my ls 8.8 carrier i had from a old solid 8.8 i had and turns out i gave it one of my buddies who gave it to someone, who gave it to someone,who gave it to someone they cant remember. .
So i went to America muscle and found a 8.8 31 spline ls carrier with carbon fiber gears that says it fits both solid or irs for $180
So going to send back the carbon fiber clutches i got from summit for $112 and the side gears i got from rock auto for $136..
i got new 4.10 gears from a member on here for $80,then got a timken master bearing kit for $101 and all new seals
Saved me some money so lets hope it fits!! Mann this has been a PITA!!
But to confirm there is a difference in a irs and solid side spider gears..here is a picture of both..notice how the splines dont go all the way to the end on the irs where they do on the solid..the irs still has a groove for a c-clip from a solid axles also so they will accept both types of axles..