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03 lincoln aviator

To add to what Dono said,
The O2 sensors would show low voltage which is lean, then fuel trims would add fuel and the real mixture would end up rich.
A rich mixture is not good for and engine, excess fuel washes the oil off the cylinder walls and rings and even gets into the oil and thins it out which can lead to bearing wear etc.
A lean mixture is not good either, raises cylinder temperatures and leads to detonation and piston damage etc.
 



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I sure cant find a leak but definitely sounds like it on the driveside..im getting a p0430
 






The p0430 is a bad cat. Its from all the burning oil and bs thats gone through it. It might be plugged up and your hearing it hissing out.
 






The p0430 is a bad cat. Its from all the burning oil and bs thats gone through it. It might be plugged up and your hearing it hissing out.
I dont have cats..its "below efficiency on Bank 2"" code..i also have the down stream O2s turned off
 






The p0430 is a bad cat. Its from all the burning oil and bs thats gone through it. It might be plugged up and your hearing it hissing out.
Ooo wait this is a downstream o2 code...derrr guess he didnt turn both downstream o2s off?? Only bank 1??
 






When you turn off the rear O2 sensors(or other things) there is more than one thing to change in the tune.
Just ask him to turn off the P0430 code and it should go away.
If you can get a smoke machine you could pump smoke into the exhaust to find the leak when it is cold, saves you from burning hands on a hot exhaust.
 






When you turn off the rear O2 sensors(or other things) there is more than one thing to change in the tune.
Just ask him to turn off the P0430 code and it should go away.
If you can get a smoke machine you could pump smoke into the exhaust to find the leak when it is cold, saves you from burning hands on a hot exhaust.

Its jist odd only bank 2 is throwing..i use to get both banks thrown..


I think i may have a bad lash adjuster or something. .i had a really bad miss and it got much much better,not throwing a code now..but swear when that side gets noisy i feel a slight miss..sounds like an exhaust leak but might be the lash adjuster..

Going to tear into it this weekend again..
 






So it definitely has a stumble ,it had one before the rebuild also but think it feels worse now or just dont remember how it felt..

Its not throwing a code for anything and sounds like an exhaust leak but i can't find one anywhere. .i also pulled my covers AGAIN and checked all my lash adjusters and followers..all seemed good..i then soaked the upper and lower intake with starter fluid to check for any vacuum leaks and nothing ..

Now when i took my injectors down to be clean and tested..one injector is different, the previous owner replaced it when he was trying to fix the dead cylinder. .that one injector flowed different than the rest at idle and part throttle. .at wot it flowed the same..ill have to find the flow numbers and post them..it was close but definitely different. .

Could that cause my stumble/miss feeling?? If not i gotta think its electrical. .

On another note how much timing should i be running at idle?? As far as i know my tuner didnt touch timing..i was doing some data logs and noticed it was like 18-20* but then when it started to ""stumble/miss"" the timing dropped to a negative numbers..if you gave it some gas it comes back up some but dropped right back down when idle again...

Could a bad knock sensor cause all the timing to be pulled and cause the motor to run crappy and stumble? ?

Last thing i noticed is my long term fuel trims are different, bank 1 is think 0.98 and bank 2 was like 0.94

 






Is the stumble at idle or when transitioning from idle to faster engine speed?
The PCM uses ignition timing for rapid control of idle speed and the IAC valve for slow control of idle speed. Just before my engine swap my SOHC V8 started stalling at idle and when starting acceleration. I cleaned the IAC valve but it didn't help. Replacing the IAC valve also didn't help. However, replacing the driver side pre-cat O2 sensor solved the problem. How old are your O2 sensors?
Is your intake manifold runner control working properly?
 






Is the stumble at idle or when transitioning from idle to faster engine speed?
The PCM uses ignition timing for rapid control of idle speed and the IAC valve for slow control of idle speed. Just before my engine swap my SOHC V8 started stalling at idle and when starting acceleration. I cleaned the IAC valve but it didn't help. Replacing the IAC valve also didn't help. However, replacing the driver side pre-cat O2 sensor solved the problem. How old are your O2 sensors?
Is your intake manifold runner control working properly?
Its at idle..the O2s are probably a year old and the runner control is working

Im told from other forums that low of timing is not correct. .whats causing it to pull timing is the big mystery
 






injectors.jpg
here is the flow chart for the injectors..#8 is the different one
 






Yes having one injector different can cause rough running. If you ever want it to run right you need a matched set.
Timing being too low can mean you have a high idle. The pcm can pull timing at idle to lower it if it is too high. That might be why timing is too low.
What causes high idle rpm, usually vacuum leaks. I usually use fuel trims to check to see if a vehicle has a vacuum leak or not but with mismatched injectors it wont work.
I would get a matched set of injectors and then run it again and see where long and short term fuel trims are.
 






Yes having one injector different can cause rough running. If you ever want it to run right you need a matched set.
Timing being too low can mean you have a high idle. The pcm can pull timing at idle to lower it if it is too high. That might be why timing is too low.
What causes high idle rpm, usually vacuum leaks. I usually use fuel trims to check to see if a vehicle has a vacuum leak or not but with mismatched injectors it wont work.
I would get a matched set of injectors and then run it again and see where long and short term fuel trims are.
I do have a aftermark tb that i never set the idle on..i threw it on and idled fine,also have checked the tps and its at .96 so assumed the iac was within range..mybe i need to unplug my iac and set idle,then adjust the tps to .98 and then plug the iac back in and see if that helps..

I would just buy a match set of injectors but only thing is i would have to again buy a set once i put the vortech on..possibly i can just buy the set i need for the vortech l,put them and my blow through maf on and have him go ahead and change everything now..should run fine..i think the maf is setup for 48lbs which id know handled it in the car i bought the kit from
 






Sorry the maf was setup for 60lbs..idk if im even going to use this maf,i know nothing about it other than it worked on the other car and came with my kit..idk how 60lbers would run NA for now..hhmm

20161119_140904-1-1.jpg
 






I've got 2 sets of stock injectors you could try......
 






I would get a set of 60lb injectors if you are going to use that maf in the future.
But only get injectors that the information is available for, like a value file in SCT Advantage3.
The Siemens Deka 60's work great and the tuning information is available for them.

You should be able to install them and have your tuner input the injector information into the tune and probably run it as is with no boost.
Then later you can add the boost. Ask your tuner what he thinks and if he agrees get them 60's.
 






Just saw Boomin's post,
Maybe try his first to make sure you get it running right first.
 






Well history repeats itself. ..
20180714_161116.jpg

#8 has low compression ..rest look good..head is coming back off,fingers crossed its a seat or valve issue ..

****** *** ** ** * * * ** *!!!!!!
 









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Maybe a bent valve from the timing being wrong?
 






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