04 Ford Explorer mom needs help

[JessieNessie]

Evening all, new here. I have an 04 Explorer 4.0 V6. Truck started a wah wah noise when coasting at 65 and decelerating, stopped when gas or brakes applied. Gradually got worse and the started pulling to the right in sync with noise. Still stopped with gas or brakes. Looked at it, replaced inner tie rods. Looked again, jacked it up ect. Debate between CV axle or bearings. Noticed CV boot was leaking at that time. I avoided driving over 40mph to save money for repairs. 2 days ago no matter what speed or applying brakes or gas it feels like something it intermittently stopping the right side tire from turning. Almost violently. So I parked her and am now pricing parts. First question, axle or bearings and second I was asked if it required removing the front end to replace axle? I do all the work myself but at the direction of my 50+ year veteran father while he holds my beer. Looking to keep cost down and get it fixed in one shot. Thank you all ahead for advice! Hope you all are having a great day!

 

[shane10]

Can you elaborate on the "wah wah" noise? You say the noise stops when you apply gas or breaks? Front or rear of car? does the sound come off of one side of the truck?
A little confused on the symptoms but it sounds like possibly wheel bearings, if they're the fronts they're not too bad, you will need an offset wrench to make the job easier. The rears need to be pressed in and are a different story. If your CV boot is leaking I would replace at a minimum the boot, if there is a tear and debris in the boot already, change the entire axle. You do not need to remove the front end, but will need to separate the UCA from the knuckle, and I believe tie rod ends, to gain clearance, it's a tight fit.
If you end up changing both the axle and wheel bearing I imagine the axle will slip out quite easily once the bearings out of the way.

 

[Tony from NJ]

I had to change the front bearings, which it sounds like it could be, torching the factory bolts before removal is essential, pretty straight forward but those bolts had some crazy lock-tight on them. Videos on you tube, take half a day

 

[imp]

I had to change the front bearings, which it sounds like it could be, torching the factory bolts before removal is essential, pretty straight forward but those bolts had some crazy lock-tight on them. Videos on you tube, take half a day

@Tony from NJ
Most incredibly effective lock-tight I've ever seen! But got them out without heat.

 

[Tony from NJ]

@Tony from NJ
Most incredibly effective lock-tight I've ever seen! But got them out without heat.

I tried one bolt without heat, I am sure you are familiar with the noise each pull of the wrench made, that job took a lot out of me

 

[TechGuru]

I had no problem getting them loose with a breaker bar BUT they have been replaced before.

But yes, a very bad wheel bearing will cause the brake to drag because the rotor moves with the bearing while the caliper is in a fixed position.

Money no object get SKF, budget get WJB WA515050HD from RockAuto. About $55 + shipping.

 

[Tshaw88]

I'd think if it were the bearing it would continue making the noise in time with the tire speed. So braking would slow the noise and acceleration would make it sound faster. A stuck brake caliper would quiet down when braking though, I'd check the brakes first, then remove the caliper and rotor and spin the hub, if you hear the noise then it's bearings

 

[donalds]

I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat

 

[imp]

I'd think if it were the bearing it would continue making the noise in time with the tire speed. So braking would slow the noise and acceleration would make it sound faster. A stuck brake caliper would quiet down when braking though, I'd check the brakes first, then remove the caliper and rotor and spin the hub, if you hear the noise then it's bearings

@Tshaw88
Can't always feel or hear a bad wheel bearing by turning by hand. My noise had gotten pretty bad, in the back, so I 'scoped the diff and wheel bearings with driveline spinning. Loudest out by the wheel. Turned by hand, felt smooth enough.

See, the spalling on the outer race did not extend clear across it's contact surface, thus only made noise with load on it. Much more with the weight of the vehicle on it.

 

[JessieNessie]

Changed bearings, tie rod and CV axel. Front diff was leaking filled it and still getting the intermittent whine and pulling worse over 35mph. Gotta look in diff to check gears and replace pinion seal. Also noticed ABS comes on after certain speed and seems to make pulling worse.

 

[jstaif]

I had to change the front bearings, which it sounds like it could be, torching the factory bolts before removal is essential, pretty straight forward but those bolts had some crazy lock-tight on them. Videos on you tube, take half a day

Actually they are torque prevailing bolts, no lock tight is used. They are designed to an oval cross section except for the last few threads to prevent baking out. They’re a real PIA!

 

[neilpridenz]

Interesting - did this job last weekend and mine definitely had some lock-tight type residue on the bolts when I finally got them out.

Several of the replacement hubs on Rock Auto look like they have some kind of substance pre-coating the bolt threads - I just assumed they were lock-tighted to secure them.

But they were difficult enough to remove that I would surely believe there was some other force at play here!

 

[imp]

Interesting - did this job last weekend and mine definitely had some lock-tight type residue on the bolts when I finally got them out.

Several of the replacement hubs on Rock Auto look like they have some kind of substance pre-coating the bolt threads - I just assumed they were lock-tighted to secure them.

But they were difficult enough to remove that I would surely believe there was some other force at play here!......

@neilpridenz
Mine ('04) had it too. Mighty hard to break loose, then MIGHTY hard to unscrew, all the way out!
It may be that several different types of retaining may be in use by Ford. imp

 

[neilpridenz]

4lb club hammer was my friend! Have to buy a new wrench now, perhaps...

 

[drdoom]

What's the tire situation on your vehicle? Also are the calipers in good shape?

 

[Drewmcg]

I had no problem getting them loose with a breaker bar BUT they have been replaced before.

But yes, a very bad wheel bearing will cause the brake to drag because the rotor moves with the bearing while the caliper is in a fixed position.

Money no object get SKF, budget get WJB WA515050HD from RockAuto. About $55 + shipping.

+1 WJB Heavy Duty. I've used them twice with good results; seem a quality part.

 

[Drewmcg]

Changed bearings, tie rod and CV axel. Front diff was leaking filled it and still getting the intermittent whine and pulling worse over 35mph. Gotta look in diff to check gears and replace pinion seal. Also noticed ABS comes on after certain speed and seems to make pulling worse.

To clarify: You changed BOTH front wheel bearings? That ABS fault is precisely what happened with me for both my failed front wheel bearings. I don't understand why a bad front differential would affect ABS (the sensor is at the wheel, in the hub assembly).....

 

[Drewmcg]

If not the wheel bearing, could be the half shaft (cv joints). they're not too expensive/hard to replace.