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08 4.6l exhaust manifold leak, snapped bolts

Discussion in 'Stock 2006 -2010 Explorers' started by pjw73nh, January 31, 2012.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. 1rosemarie1

    1rosemarie1 New Member

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    I have an 2007 mercury montaineer with a couple of problems
    1. whenever it RAINS water gets under my hood and shorts out spark plugs/ ignition coil I have to cover my hood unless I'm driving in the RAIN. as a result.....
    2. gas has leaked into catalytic converter causing engine light will not pass inspection
    3. all manifold studs / bolts heads are broken off making that repair impossible.
    HELP ME..........
     
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  3. Ornery

    Ornery Active Member

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    I've read here about water leaking on the coils by the firewall. I believe a simple cover was fashioned to shed the water away from the coil(s). No reason to cover the entire hood. Not sure if that only affected the V8 or V6.

    The heads may have to be pulled to fix the manifold problem. What is keeping them on right now? I muffler shop ought to be able to fudge a new converter on there. Tell them to get creative!
     
  4. Explorer_PL

    Explorer_PL Elite Explorer

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    The water drips on # 8 whenever it rains because there is a hole right over it where the windshield shroud (sp) is clipped to the body. I took a piece of aluminium siding and screw it right under the windshield to route the water away to the sides. All is good, before #8 was wet and had misfire.
     
  5. mes882

    mes882 New Member

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    Whats sad is this exhaust manifold is not a new problem. I had a 97 f150 with the same issue. Then I bought a 07 mountaineer. You would have thought ford would have addressed the issue in ten years. I guess ford just really don't want to admit or fix their f ups. Now I am learning about the spark plug thing. I think ford should buy these all back from there owners. Or put new heads on all of them and exhaust manifolds completely redesigned.
     
  6. NoFear06

    NoFear06 New Member

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    I am going to chime on my recent repair. The passenger side was leaking, just like everyone elses. It would tick for 60 seconds or so and go away. So for about 8 months or so I put off doing the repair. Tax return time and the wife saying she was going to keep it for awhile...I bit it and took it too a friends shop to repair it.

    Went to take the first bolt on the front...snap. Got the manifold off...had to dig out the other bolt....what a project. Then replaced that stud and reinstalled....snapped the bottom front bolt. So now he had to dig that out. He was able to get both out without removing the head. Replaced 7 of the 8 studs...said the 8 stud wouldn't come out and he didn't want to replace another stud.

    Tightened it all down...so far we put about 200 miles on it and it sounds great. Total cost....about $380. I know a deal right..........

    But the mechanic told me never to bring it back to him for that problem. He said he would never do that repair for another Explorer owner either lol. He said if it starts leaking again...warm it up and trade it in. LOL!

    Just wanted to share.
     
  7. Explorer_PL

    Explorer_PL Elite Explorer

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    NoFear06 - so what's the name and the phone # for your mechanic ?
    I'll pay him a visit with my "diesel" sounding explorer :)
     
  8. TowingExplorer

    TowingExplorer Active Member

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    You guys can add me to the list. Just got a rejection inspection sticker for my '06 Limited with just 72k miles on it due to a leak on the passenger side of the bay.

    Popped the hood when I got home and immediately noticed the driver's side heat shield had rusted and fallen away, though not loose enough to pull out and isn't rattling yet.

    Passenger side I can't even see the heat shield or manifold, but the ticking leak is definitely there as I can smell it and, judging by the rusted studs I can clearly see on the driver's side, I probably snapped a stud.

    I have the highest Ford warranty for another 3 months (bought a 4 year 48k mile at around 38k chassis miles), but I'm not clear if it is covered based on these threads I've been reading.

    A cracked manifold I could see being covered, just not so sure about just a snapped stud or two.
     
  9. steve6534

    steve6534 Active Member

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    You're actually very lucky being in MA since this should be covered under the 8/80 emissions warranty that is extended to include exhaust manifolds only in certain states.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. TowingExplorer

    TowingExplorer Active Member

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    I can't tell if it's a stud though yet because of not being able to see it. The last thing I want is to bring it to the dealer to find out it's a leaking gasket and not covered... if that wouldn't be covered.
     
  11. Flag Gibby

    Flag Gibby Well-Known Member

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    Call the warrantee number for the policy holder (Ford I believe) and they will tell you exactly what is covered. On my premium policy the only things not covered are consumables/regular maintenance items.
     
  12. scubastevesx

    scubastevesx Member

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    just a heads up they may not cover the studs just parts
    my pass side was leaking. they replaced with the tsb studs
    they also had to jack the motor over to drill out all studs
    the cost was 900.00 mine covered the manifold brand new loaner
    but not the studs. my manifold was cracked
     
  13. pjw73nh

    pjw73nh Active Member

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    Have a look here. This is the most basic of genuine ford ESPs. It CLEARLY mentions manifold (intake and exhaust) AND manifold bolts.

    http://owner.ford.com/servlet/Conte...Page/ESPPlanDetail&planName=ESPPowertrainCare

    Click on the "engine" tab in the lower part of the frame.

    There is also a clause in the fine print that says (paraphrasing) If a non covered part needs to be replaced in the process of replacing a covered part, or BECASUE of the failure of a covered part, then the non covered part IS covered.

    I had this issue. A caliper seized on me. They charged me for the pads and rotor. I pointed out the clause and they said that those parts don't apply because they are considered "consumable". Under normal circumstances where they just wear out. Yes, they are consumable and NOT covered. But as a result of another COVERED part failing (caliper seizing).... They ARE covered. There was no further discussion. They looked at the clause and said they made a mistake.

    If they try and claim "studs are not bolts", I'd get a lawyer.

    -W
     
  14. va2explorer

    va2explorer Member

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    I'll tell you what TowingEX, if you find out the warranty does not cover the broken studs(which it probably does not),and it does cover a cracked manifold(which it probably does) then you should take pics and document what you have seen. I have heard a few stories about the dealership trying to say there were no cracks found, when in actuality the customer took pics and documented where the cracks were. It's not all that hard to gain access to the manifolds, just remove the wheel on the side you hear the tick coming from and remove the inner plastic fender. You do not even have to totally remove the plastic, when you get most of the plastic push pins out (I want to say there are less pins towards the rear of the fender) then just bend the rest of the inner fender forward and hold with a bungee cord or something similar. If you do not see any cracks, keep looking real hard by tapping on the manifold with a hammer(hint hint) only to loosen the rust slag that may be covering the crack that you want to take pics of and document for your own records, and peace of mind.
     
  15. scubastevesx

    scubastevesx Member

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    mine is through Warranty Solutions there not that bad they have approved
    my repairs very fast. my info is just something to look out for on the studs
    the company so far is allright with me
     
  16. TowingExplorer

    TowingExplorer Active Member

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    Update. I have a small inspection camera and looked at the top and bottom of both manifolds (after ripping out the rusted and previously detached shields).

    I believe I visually saw every stud still in place. The toughest to look at was the passenger side on the bottom as the starter is in there and not much space otherwise. The driver's side bottom I was able to inspect from above as that side is nearly empty.

    Good points here.

    My Fusion conveniently started throwing a P2111 (throttle body code) on Friday so that needs to get in ASAP as my wife drives it. When the code triggers, you have no throttle response at all and have to cost over and restart the car. Happened again on Saturday. Not driving it again until it goes in to the dealer.
     
  17. TowingExplorer

    TowingExplorer Active Member

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    Okay, final update I suppose.

    Picked up the Explorer from the dealer today. The passenger manifold was either warped or cracked, either way it was replaced under my Ford ESP. Supposedly, only 3 of the studs had to be replaced which I am extremely surprised by. I have not had a chance to look at it to see how they managed to save the other studs.

    When they brought it into the garage, they immediately noticed my front passenger wheel bearing was bad by its whirring. They volunteered to fix it even though I had not listed it as an issue. To be honest, I didn't notice because I don't drive the Explorer enough to notice it gradually got louder.

    I mentioned the passenger side being colder than driver's side when dual climate is set to A/C.. they measured and said the driver's side was 10-15* warmer than passenger which is "within spec".

    Lastly, I mentioned a misfire feeling around 50mph, to which they immediately noted the wheel bearing. I haven't driven it a lot as I just picked it up today, but I think the "misfire" feeling is still there. If I confirm, I'll bring it back and refuse to pay any additional deductible as I complained about it before.

    My ESP ends in December due to time, 4 years 48k miles.
     
  18. Alan Lloys

    Alan Lloys New Member

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    Snapped studs on exhaust manifold

    I had my passenger side leak and tick last year and had it fixed at the dealer. I bought my Mountaineer as a certified pre-owned so it has a 7 year, 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. According to the dealer it this warranty covered all the work involved with the exhaust manifold and snapped studs.
    Now the driver side is leaking and I the dealer is just waiting for replacement parts before the can do the covered repair on this side.

    Hope this helps some of you as I believe the power train warranty is longer than the standard warranty.
     
  19. FStephenMasek

    FStephenMasek Member

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    Thanks for this forum and thread!

    Don't forget the tremendous negative impacts of the silly CAFE regulations. Without those, Ford might have made the manifold of thicker cast iron.
     
    Last edited: October 20, 2013
  20. pjw73nh

    pjw73nh Active Member

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    Well it's reared it's ugly head again. The passenger side that Lou's Custom Exhaust fixed last year is still holding strong. He removed the two broken studs from the #1 cylinder, replaced all 8 with new ones, and a new gasket. #1 was the culprit last time.

    NOW !!! Number 8 has snapped a stud. Same symptoms, loud ticking for the first 20-40 seconds, longer in cold Wx. I went down with an inspection mirror yesterday and sure enough #8 (not sure if it's the upper or lower) is snapped.

    So, do I call Lou's and have them do this side like they did on the other side? Or am I going to be playing ping-pong (passenger/drivers/passenger/drivers) with these snapped studs for the rest of the car's life. If that's the case I will just live with the noise. $450 every couple of years is not worth it for me.
     
  21. TowingExplorer

    TowingExplorer Active Member

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    Your originals lasted 4-5 years, so I guess if they replace them all on the second side this time, you may be good for 4-5 more years depending on the hardware they used.

    They probably used cheaper than what was supplied by the dealer studs. You could supply them with some grade 8 or stainless to try and prolong their life.
     

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