How I built it
Tools needed to rebuild diff
Impact gun / half inch drive
Breaker bar
Impact gun / 3/8 drive
Breaker bar
12mm 12point socket
Basic 8mm-19mm 3/8
Basic 12mm-24mm 1/2
24mm wrench
3/4 1/2 drive socket
Punch set
Pry bars
2 blocks of wood
Dial indicator
Jack and stands
1/2 torque wrench
3/8 torque wrench
Thread sealer
Steel hammer
Rubber hammer
8.8 case spreader
New ring bolts
New carrier bearings and races
Shim set in case
Dielectric grease
4oz friction modifier
2 qts 75-140 full synthetic
Tool to add fluid pump style with hose
Sealer
Gear marking compound
Scraper or razor blade
2 cans brake clean
Paper towels
I started with raising the vehicle and taking off the rear tires.
I then took brakes off. However this is how the manual tells you to do but I recommend the first thing you do is after the wheels remove the driveshaft with the 12mm 12 point socket cause if you do this last when you put car in park or neutral to lock the drive shaft to get it out you may over extend the rear brakes cause they are removed so do that first. Then remove the rear discs.
After remove the connectors going to the rear abs sensor let them hang loose around the hubs.
Then remove the 3 bolts securing the trailing arm to the knuckle the top one and the 2 bottom ones
Then slide out the rear axles enough to get them past the c rings and swing the whole assembly till its out of your way and the axles can slide out and be out of way.
Next drop spare tire.
Then remove spare tire heat shield.
Then drain diff fluid
Now place floor jack snug under diff and undo the 4 bolts to the diff.
Lower diff and remove from truck.
Place on bench and remove cover bolts. Place pry bar in a suitable place and be very careful light prying and use rubber hammer to tap side of case it's aluminum it will crack if too much force.
Once cover is off place in a stand up position by using special tools to hold it to bench if you have if not will be difficult but still manageable. Place the case spreader on the diff and spread case to .030 inch use a dial indicator and do it twice undo pressure and reapply to .030.
Next take the carrier bearing caps off and mark them which way they go and which side each is and which direction each one is and keep bolts inside of cap so they don't get mixed up.
Next grab 2 pieces of wood to pry against and use 2 pry bars might need 2 people I had to and pry up till it pops out also mark one side of the shims in case they all fall out so you know which side is witch if you need to you also can remove dowel screw in carrier and slide the pin out and remove the spider gears and side gears to have more room for leverage.
Once out inspect casing for any damages etc. remove from bench or flip over and clean out thoroughly and dry with towels. Also clean off old sealant.
Next get carrier and press on new bearings till the bearings hit side of case make sure you press on where the inside diameter ring and not outside or you will damage bearing.
Once on put little oil on bearings and races to keep them lubed.
Next remove old ringbolts from carrier and use rubber hammer to knock off ring make sure your hand is under it so you don't damage teeth.
Next place ring on new carrier and use new bolts and tighten in cris cross pattern to spec 94 lb-ft and then place carrier with new races into the assembly first place original shims in place and slowly drop it into place it's tedious but it will go in if its stubborn you can put caps on both sides and slowly tighten each bolt a little at a time on both sides to force it in and then remove caps and check to make sure it's all the way down and tap shims in with a punch lightly.
Once in place put caps on and tightens both sides till snug and torque to spec 82 lb-ft
Then make sure the bolt for the carrier pin is tightened down.
Now check for backlash. Place gauge on ring and case and check for .008-.012 and not vary more than .004 between points measured, if in spec move to checking ring pattern if not take apart again and shim accordingly.
If in spec place gear marking compound on ring gear on both sides of teeth and on 3 teeth and rotate 5 revolutions and look at pattern it should show the compound in the middle contacting not to one side etc.
Once checked out place sealer on the cover and tighten to spec 24 lb-ft
Add 1 quart of oil with friction modifier to ease having to put it in while in truck and then reverse procedure for reinstallation.
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Bolts requiring thread locker any that have it on when you removed it like the drive shaft bolts.
Use dialectic grease on the 2 abs sensor connectors and apply a light coat of it on the wire for the spare to keep it lubed so when you use it in 10 years it will move again.
Make sure lug nuts are torque to 100 ft-lb
Make sure front axle bolts are torqued to 76 lb-ft and rear are torqued to 111 lb-ft
Fill rear diff to proper level with a special tool to suck and force fluid out.
When done perform a figure 8 and do it 8 times in an abandoned parking lot to work in the modifier.
Then bring to a shop to perform an alignment it will be out.
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Here are pics that i put on a drive idk how to upload pics here if you even can.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxwABT1ITWImbHozaWtuNjc2aGc&usp=sharing
and here is the word doc of clips and instructions from a manual.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxwABT1ITWImTHAyR2hnOFkxcW8&usp=sharing
Hope this helps someone doing the same thing I did!
Tom
