1986 Ranger 2.3 gas-putting & stalling after replacing spark plugs, etc.

[RangerX]

Here's a thread on it: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255962&highlight="paper+clip"
I dunno if your 86 has the wire harness plug thing shown in the pic, but check it out.

 

[dtzogman]

Greetings,

Glad you passed smog.You don't need a code reader to pull codes.I usually use a analog volt meter.And yes I was talking about connectors with the crc cleaner.They do make code readers though for the ford eec4 system which is what you have.if you want I can explain the procedure to you w/o one.

 

[bozo4ford]

Rough Idling on a cold start

Hi,
For a 1986 ranger, I don't think there are any codes to plug in and read..think that was more in the 1990's era of these trucks.

Ok. Since the smog passed, it’s doubtful the timing was bad or incorrect. My problem with the rough idling is unfortunately still with me.

I have been told it could be a PVC, EGR, or a vacuum hose. I did remove the IACV (air bypass) cleaned it with carb cleaner, replaced it and it did run better than before, but little better, so maybe that has to be replaced after 24 years, maybe not.

When I start the truck in the morning, it has a hard time keeping an idle unless I press down on the gas, then after about ten minutes, it seems to idle a little better, and when I run it on the freeway, it runs like nobody's "bidniz".

I've been to Autozone and Pep boys looked at their Haynes repair books on the location of that PVC valve, but no one knows where it is on my truck. is it on the drivers side, all the way back behind the throttle body, close to the engine wall/windshield, below the vacuum tree somewhere?

1986 Ranger / 140 CID/ 2.3 EFI gas/ 4 Cyl. 5-speed 151,000+ miles
Thank you!

 

[Tbars4]

...I would be interested in trying to help you out as I am local to you...Maybe this weekend I could come by?..

 

[bozo4ford]

Hey All!
Well, I'm still a puttering and stalling.

Thanks Tbars4, SMALL WORLD! and that's really generous of you,and I might take you up on that,seriously, I don't wish this upon my worst enemy,because this could be opening a whole bag of worms. Besides, I've been busy with DRs. Appointments,and dealing with my Mom's car, and other stuff, but just today I was tinkering around the vacuum tree, and removed the last plug on the vacuum tree nearest the firewall, (photos below) and then the idle started getting steadier and stronger. I have the Chilton's repair manual, but no mention what these parts are. (I guess I have to remind everyone that I am not a mechanic, and not sure what these parts are) By unplugging this air hose (from the red arrow) is there a sure tell sign where the problem is, either the vacuum tree or the other pictured photo near the intake manifold? Would it be ok to run this without that hose in there until I can get to and from my doctors visits this week?

Could you tell me what these parts are? I can't believe all I did was to steam clean my engine, then it started running really rough.

 

[Tbars4]

...I can't really tell the location by the picture but I believe that is your EGR valve...:scratch:

...Does the tube it sits on attach to the exhaust manifold and is there 2 bolts holding it in place?

...BTW, I'm by Disneyland daily if that is close to you...and you could just put a cap on that tree as long as you are just driving around town...

 

[bozo4ford]

Which picture? The one with the arrow? I was thinking the EGR is to the right of the vacuum tree with that short hose branching off of that straight line.

The framed picture I've been told is my Fuel Pressure Regulator. Is replacing the FPR something I can do myself? It looks like there are only two front screws holding that in. Will there be fuel present for me to worry about, or any kind of specifications to follow??

Some have said to plug that exposed nipple off on the vacuum tree (red arrow) to eliminate excess air into the system, otherwise it could foul plugs, and ruin the o2 sensor. I need my truck to get to the doctors,but can't drive it if it's going to stall on the freeway.

Thank you again!

Is there a name for that (red arrow) nipple, or just an air hose from the Fuel Pressure Regulator to the vacuum tree?

 

[Tbars4]

...Plug the vacuum nipple...

...This is what is shown for your replacement FPR...$19

...This is your replacement EGR...$80

...I would suggest picking up a Haynes Manual at the parts store before trying to do repairs yourself...It has a lot of basic repair info and "How To" pertaining to your model...

 

[Tbars4]

...Any updates on this?

 

[bozo4ford]

Hi,
Well, beyond the existing problems I am having trying to find out why my 1986 Ranger 2.3L 140CID 5-speed 4-CYL. EFI GAS truck is stalling after about 40 seconds upon starting, No, I have been sick and haven't been able to replace any of those parts, but thanks.

In looking at both the Fuel Relay Switch (part# F1HZ9345A) and the green Multi function switch ( F8PZ14N135EA) the wires from the pig tail going into both connectors look corroded. I called area Salvage yards and Ford dealerships,and they do have the switches, but do not have these connectors so I could splice them together. I don't know if I should even attempt to replace that multi function relay switch not knowing exactly what it does.

I went to Rockauto.com and all I found was two items for the fuel relay connector...I don't know which would work, even though they look the same. They are:
1P1162 for $10.99 and
1P1102 for $11.58 To be used with 1R1294 Relays.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=6965&pictureid=27039

 

[Tbars4]

....Pic a part on Katella and the one on Beach both have early rangers in stock right now...Might be worth a trip over there to look at their connectors...

...I still don't know what part of Anaheim you are in but you can call Rodriguez bros. auto parts or Parts Source...They should be able to find your new parts cheap...

 

[bozo4ford]

Happy Saturday!


DTZogman,
Someone had mention that the 1986 ranger had no code reader in the truck. I was at autozone and I asked what this part was hanging on the pass fender wall near the very back near the firewall and blower heater unit, he though that was a Diagnostic port. So I gather that is where you can read codes.
I also went there to ask if anyone knew where the PCV was located on my truck. At first, he thought it was part of my oil cap bypass air back into the crankcase,but as he looked on the stamped vehicle info tag on the front of the truck, under emissions, there was no mention of a PCV device. I think I mentioned before that I did buy the $3.00 PCV part for my truck, got t home and could not find anywhere it could be, unless it's underneath the intake manifold,behind the throttle body not in plain view. I could post that vehicle info if you want.
I also bought a MAP sensor,haven't installed it yet,but thinking that may also improve my idle, and it wouldn't hurt, I don't have money to toss away, but these parts haven't been replaced since I bought the truck brand new...24 years ago. The guy at the store also recommended the Lucas Oil treatment (about $12.00) to help the seals and compression (even though a compression test five years ago showed the number 1 cyl. not up to par)

Given it's 24 year old age, bad compression on #1 cyl.,valve cover leaks,rough idling in the morning (but after it warms up it runs ok) valve job is badly needed,could not be accepted into the Clunker program because they rated my truck the same gas millage now as they did the day I bought the car, so no new truck for me.

On the relay inquiry. I found a 4-wire connector harness for my fuel pump relay and will splice together the wires to the existing wires from my wiring harness. There is another relay (green box) next to this relay. I've been told from Ford it was a multi function/purpose relay for my horn. The guy at autozone told me it could be my EFI sensor relay...does anyone know? I could do a test and disconnect, start the engine or honk my horn and get an answer, but as long as I'm here.

Stupidity question ensues.....Should I just install the MAP sensor anyway, or taken it back until I know that it is the problem? I really don't have the money for diagnostic and repair costs,no meter reader,torque wrenches,or gauges, just trying to wing it the best I can on this. Thanks!

 

[Tbars4]

...You can afford a paper clip...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255962

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147734

..Then go here to translate your code...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160035

 

[bozo4ford]

Tbars4,
Thanks for trying to make this all sound easier than it is, but for this novice of never trying to read codes on this truck,well, I don't know what to do with the paper clip. (some of you might tell me to bend over) This 1986 2.3L EFI 4 cylinder does have a TFI Module under the DistCap, and I have replaced this a few times.

With the ECC-IV, according to the Chilton book on the Ranger and Bronco II 1983-88,(pages 66, 191) The EEC power Relay is located on the passenger side,RH side of kick panel,and the ECA,Electronic Control Assembly is also in the same place. The only thing I thought was over there was something to do with the fuel inertia switch. I've never been over there, except to tap it once when I thought the fuel was not flowing.

As far as baby steps, most of the posters are more familiar with broncos and newer rangers,which for the most part are similar in some aspects,but if someone with an 1986 ranger like me could tell me how to go about where to find these parts and how to hook anything up to read codes, I could probably borrow a timing light. (oh, and a paper clip)

I also bought a MAP sensor to install, but I could wait to read codes before I Install it. $60.00.

 

[bozo4ford]

Vacuum Hose Routing & Emissions-

Misnamed relays. Fuel Pump relay is the green and Black pictured at TOP RIGHT,So what is the other one Bottom left?

SPOUT ( I guess to disconnect when setting timing so it doesn't interfere with ECU.

Under the EGR

Throttle Body-

Dithering Valve Pair? located on fender wall, passenger side

 

[Tbars4]

...I'm pretty handy, close to you, and offered to come by to help you out...

...What are you doing tomorrow?..

 

[bozo4ford]

I'm sorry. I have failed. PVC ...I keep looking in that area between the right side of the distributor Cap, and around the fuel pressure regulator,and nothing even comes close to looking like the PVC I bought at the store.

Do I have to remove the upper manifold to get to it? Or remove anything at all? Seems like a very tight fit.


The more I learn about my truck, the more I regress. Is it that white tubular plug-in looking thing that's sticking out of the manifold right above the dist. cap?
(see my picture of drivers side photo)

Knock sensor or the ECT - Engine Coolant Temp sensor...maybe that got wet, and was the problem, maybe my plug wires, which I never replaced, only the plugs. BUT....Pep Boys told me the Coolant temp sensor should be by the thermostat, over by the radiator hose going into the engine. WHAT?

I returned the MAP sensor today. If it works don't fix it. I probably couldn't hear any difference in performance anyway.

Overall, the truck now seems to be starting, self idling, and running, just ok, not great, but after 24 years,I can't expect a new truck. So I will count my blessing for now, except I also have a bad case of bronchitis...yuck.

 

[Tbars4]

...I replied in your thread over on TRS..

 

[bozo4ford]

Can anyone tell me what's going on with all this "PIZZA" Stuff ? Did I enter into the Twilight Zone, Outer Limits? Pizza does sound good anytime, but can we eat that after I fix my truck?

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's an April fools gag.