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Solved 1989 Aerostar. No power on the starter relay from the ignition switch.

Discussion in 'Aerostar Forum' started by kaptaindonut, August 4, 2011.

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  1. kaptaindonut

    kaptaindonut New Member

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    89 Aerostar won't start. I don't have power to the small post on the solenoid relay, and the check engine light is on. I can hot wire the relay to start it. The ignition switch shows instrument light activity in the start position. I don't think it's the key switch. What else could it be?
     
    Last edited: August 4, 2011
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  3. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Welcome to this forum! I've renamed your thread, and moved it into the Aerostar section. There is a recall on the ignition switch. Check the switch with a test light. Other possibilities are the fuses, neutral safety switch, shift cable out of alignment, fusible links.
     
  4. kaptaindonut

    kaptaindonut New Member

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    thanks for your input

    I have a new ignition switch to install, the old one isn't very smooth turning. All fuses are good on the block. Neutral switch was replaced one year ago.
     
  5. kaptaindonut

    kaptaindonut New Member

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    still won't start with key

    An ignition key switch and starter solenoid relay was installed. Can the system computer ruin my day like this?
     
  6. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  7. kaptaindonut

    kaptaindonut New Member

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    Yes I have a test light, I don't have power on the S pole on the solenoid when in the key start position. I don't know if ford made other fused links besides the fuse block. Any idea what color wire is the output wire to check. Thanks for your time.
     
  8. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  9. kaptaindonut

    kaptaindonut New Member

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    Still won't start

    I found no fuseable link on the solenoid relay. One red cable from starter to relay on one post. The other post is connected to the battery and a yellow wire and also a black/ yellow strip wire. The S smaller post has a white/ red stripe wire with a black cap plug. My next step is probably to take it in Thursday, don't know what else to do. Thanks.
     
  10. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  11. Dan Hutton

    Dan Hutton New Member

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    Did anyone come up with the resolve for the lack of power at the solenoid S post when the ignition switch is turned? I am having the same problem with my 93 Aerostar.
    I can jump the solenoid S terminal from the battery terminal and get the starter to turn but I'm not getting power from the ignition switch to the S post. Yes I have replace the neutral switch......I'm thinking there is an "starter relay" ahead of the solenoid that is being over looked.........can't come up with the exact physical location of the starter relay?

    Dan H
     
  12. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  13. Mike Lewis

    Mike Lewis New Member

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    Previously it was stated that the ignition switch could be the problem. How does one check it out other than checking the wire that goes to the starter solenoid? What if the ignition switch IS the problem, what then? Can it be repaired or should it be replaced? I got my ignition lock cylinder out easily enough but the actual switch and wires must be buried in the steering column.
     
  14. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  15. Mike Lewis

    Mike Lewis New Member

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    No crank

    I tested the starter relay with a jumper, it works. The little wire that comes from the wiring loom to the relay doesn't send any current when the ignition is rotated to the START position.

    I have the clam shell off, had the ign lock/cylinder out and in a couple times but still no signal from the switch.

    Where is the lock out switch for PARK / Neutral located? I understand it may also be the problem.

    Thanks!
     
  16. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  17. Mike Lewis

    Mike Lewis New Member

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    Back up lights work properly. One more element eliminated from the list of possibilities. All fuses in the fuse box on the driver side kick panel are good. The inertia switch on passenger side kick panel shows a red button through the slit at the base of the protruding collar but not sticking up above the collar.

    That is two more possibilities eliminated, looking more like the ignition switch or the wire from it to the start relay.

    Are there other fuse locations?
     
  18. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Connect a test light directly onto the terminals of the ignition switch, then turn the key to the crank position. You will know if the switch is bad if there's no power. You could check the continuity of the wire going to the starter relay on the fender wall by connecting a continuity tester onto both ends of this wire (ignition switch & starter relay ends).
     
  19. Mike Lewis

    Mike Lewis New Member

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    Before I take something apart that shouldn't be or doesn't need to be messed with I would like to know what to avoid and what to tackle. When looking at the steering column I see two connectors with a bunch of wires, one on the side of the column at the base of the turn sig switch, the other one is just on the upper side of the column and looks to connect with stuff in the steering wheel. Which connector is the one to check? Color codes?

    By this time of life I should be smarter but Life is what it is. This "project" is causing me to stretch my ability to comprehend electricity and automobile engineering. Thanks for all the assistance.
     
  20. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Moderator & long time member. Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  21. Mike Lewis

    Mike Lewis New Member

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    Well, I found the problem! 2 wires were severed at the connector on the transmission switch. One other wire is nearly cut through. I suspect mice or wood rat as we live on the woods here in the foothills of the Sierra mountains.

    So I'm off the the local hardware store to find some wire splices. Since I have 3 wires to repair that are 'cut' at the connector with not enough to splice I think I will cut the whole connector off about 3" from the block so I can take it into my shop and repair the very short wires in the connector, then splice it all back on and plug it in.
     

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