1997 "white" 4.0 SOHC primary and D side secondary chain guide repair-Fill neck hose replace-

[allmyEXes]

I have been working on removing the upper half of my intake manifold today and have disconnected a bunch of stuff attached to it and removed 7 T-30 bolts from the upper threaded in to the lower. It still feels as if it connected and I am wondering if I have another bolt, that I cant see yet to undo. If anyone has done this recently please enlighten me. I have searched here and Google and have even read 5 months of post titles looking for info. I would like to lift it off tonight so that I feel like I finished.... Even though there is much more to do after this. Thanks in advance.

UPDATED: I found the eighth bolt hidden in the middle. The access bore is so small that I need a 1/4 drive T-30 torx bit or hand driver style to remove it. I guess that is it for the night. Next step, Pick up tools and close the hood !

 

[410Fortune]

8 bolts

 

[allmyEXes]

Thanks ! That is the best picture that I have seen of the intake tonight. Everything else that I looked at was obscure. I couldn't even find a torque sequence pic to count the bolts. Thanks again !

 

[allmyEXes]

2nd Update:I couldn't quit until the 8th bolt was out. In my small/under-equipped tool box at home, I found a flat blade/tip screw driver that fit snuggly into the T-30 torx head. I was concerned that I could strip the tip (Made in C Hina) or the Torx bolt and then have trouble with the proper tool, But I kept it square and tight and took 1 shot at it and it broke a loose. Now I'm done for the night.

 

[donalds]

Don't torque the intake bolts they will strip the lower intake bolt holes just snug them up
Trust me

Someone will chime in and give a more eloquently put statement as it's 440 in the morning and my brain is not working all the way

 

[410Fortune]

that is actually correct, these screws are not threaded bolts, just screws into plastic, so snug is the key

For that rear most bolt I have a 1/4" drive extension that is flexible, I put my torx 30 bit on that sucker and I can get right at those back screws

How did your O rings look? Nice and flat and dried up?
Make sure you do the lower O rings as well, the lower plenum where it meets the metal intake
Probably have a mouse nest in there too above the knock sensor.........

 

[allmyEXes]

It was real dark when I un-did the last bolt. It is getting all new O-rings on the upper and lower. I am going to be removing the drivers side valve cover to get a look at the secondary chain. I also will replacing the front hydraulic tensioner. There is a very loud timing chain noise coming from the front of the engine. I thought I had a socket to fit the HB but apparently 18mm is not what size it is. This is the newest 97 4.0 SOHC that we purchased a few weeks ago with an existing rattle. It will be getting new gaskets whenever something has been un-done. The truck only has 140K commuter miles on it.

 

[410Fortune]

if the rattling is in the front of the engine down low you may need to remove the timing cover to get at the main tensioner and balance chain
Now is the time to fix it if that is the case
Only use FORD brand hydraulic tensioners Do NOT install anything else, unless you are gonna do the manual tensioner swap

 

[allmyEXes]

I did the manual tensioner swap on the rear chain on my other '97 but I don't see a way to adjust it if I were to use on the left front. I guess I will use a MOTORCRAFT one on the left front since I have it that far apart.
The best that I can tell is I need a 19mm or 3/4" socket to remove the damper bolt. I have 2 different chain wrenches to hold the HB damper but I will remove the CPS in order to have room for the chain wrench.

 

[410Fortune]

yes I think you are right 19mm on 4.0
The bolt should come loose without needing a chain wrench, just hold the damper with your hand
You will need a 3 jaw puller or other style crank puller to get that damper off

 

[allmyEXes]

Monday Evening Update: I was unable to remove the harmonic balancer/damper bolt with tools that I have at home. I'm assuming that I will need to use a 1/2 drive impact to break it a loose. I did remove the drivers side valve cover and found what I was hoping to find. The left front secondary timing chain was "sloppy" loose and I found a little tan colored plastic "chard" that I assume is from the chain guide. The shiny end of the hydraulic tensioner was sticking out about 10mm. If it wasn't for the damper, and timing cover, I could look at all the front chains, pieces and parts. Bringing home 1/2 impact tomorrow. I just hope that it has enough "umph" left in the wore out tool. Fingers crossed!

 

[drdoom]

I am liking this thread, because I have the same model truck, and parked it a few months ago due to a problem with the front cassette. I have partially disassembled, down to the valve cover removal.

 

[allmyEXes]

Mine is so noisy and the chain is so sloppy that I am assuming that the valves are hitting the pistons. I wish that I had scope to look inside the cylinders and then debating between a few new valves or a good JY head to use or pull valves out of to repair my existing drivers side head...

 

[drdoom]

Mine is so noisy and the chain is so sloppy that I am assuming that the valves are hitting the pistons. I wish that I had scope to look inside the cylinders and the debating between a few new valves or a good JY head to use or pull valves out of to repair my existing drivers side head...

What has happened to mine is, the plastic guides have worn out and the chain jumped one tooth, puncturing the valve cover. 270,000 miles. So I need to pull the timing cover and at least replace the cassette.

 

[allmyEXes]

I don't think that mine has jumped a tooth, it runs to good, just noisy, very loud! I wish that I had access to a scope to look down at the top of the pistons on the drivers side. I will be purchasing a cam alignment toolset very soon.

 

[410Fortune]

the noise up front is likely from the balance chain and or main tensioner, can be repaired with engine in the truck.
I like to remove the balance chain completely (pry it apart no cutting) and its tensioner. Replace the main front chain tensioner with the newer updated 3 spring style and button it all back up.....

 

[allmyEXes]

UPDATE: I finally had time, light and tolerable temperature to remove the water pump so my "KING SIZE" chain pipe wrench would fit around the smooth part of the HB/damper. The bolt came out without much trouble and it took a deep well socket to do it. Tomorrow it will be a high of 50 degrees and before then I should have the damper and timing cover off of the engine. I will put the damper back on to get a look at where all of the chains etc are currently positioned.
During the last work session before this one, I did remove the left side valve cover and could move the sloppy secondary chain with a finger or screwdriver. Since this is a bit by bit project I put the valve cover back on and reconnected the harness connector and PCM connector to keep moister out of them too. I'm bagging the bolts in groups in ziplock bags written on with a Sharpie.
More tomorrow.

 

[drdoom]

Where I am on my '97, upper intake off, left valve cover off, fan & shroud off, right accessories & bracket off, power steering reservoir & bracket off (broke the reservoir removing hose), power steering pump off, battery tray off, left accessory bracket loose, working on detaching the AC compressor from the accessory bracket. Just still clearing the way to get to the timing cover.

 

[allmyEXes]

So far I'm leaving the PS pump and AC on the bracket with hoses hooked up. I have been able to move it a bit here and there. I guess that the AC hoses are supporting it. I'll know on the morning if it is in the way of the timing cover. I hope not...

Added: Is your radiator out? I disconnected the fan shroud, hung it on the fan. I took out the radiator, then the shroud and fan assy. I seem to have quite a bit of working room in there. Make sure that all of your timing cover to block and the oil pan bolts threaded from the bottom up in to the timing cover are out before you knock or pry on the T-chain cover!

 

[drdoom]

Radiator is still in place. I plan to leave compressor in also, just removing bracket.