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$200 96 4.0 Project

"So far so good, pretty nice truck. Scored a set of Nexen Roadian ATs for cheap.."
Good deal....just keep it for a backup vehicle.... the OHV with just under 100K is a baby still !
 



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So I got the title in my name, truck's old title came with the repo paperwork, which took four people at the DMV to figure out how to handle since apparently nobody buys repos around here, but it's arrived in my name so time to put some actual money in it.

I'm probably different but I don't generally touch a vehicle until the title is in my name, even if it's signed to me.
 






So I've started figuring it out. I started with the blatantly obvious, the GEM being a problem child. I went to the junkyard, and got one out of another 96, and it's identical, exact same numbers, and put it in. Now the fuse doesn't blow and the speedo works perfectly, it seems to shift better too. It counts miles again too.

Now we're on to step two, further tracing. The front windows click in the dash and don't go up or down, the rears do though. I think it's a window motor/regulator problem but will definitely test before tearing into a door. The rear wiper doesn't do anything, the passenger mirror doesn't either. Other than that, the bare minimum of power features seem to work. Still no AC, probably just going to swap compressor out, seems simple, it's a reman unit already so I'm not too big a fan.

Then comes my ultimate frustration of the week, the batteries in both this and my 2000 have failed, one fails load testing and the other isn't holding charge. Walmart here we come.
 






So I've started figuring it out. I started with the blatantly obvious, the GEM being a problem child. I went to the junkyard, and got one out of another 96, and it's identical, exact same numbers, and put it in. Now the fuse doesn't blow and the speedo works perfectly, it seems to shift better too. It counts miles again too.

Now we're on to step two, further tracing. The front windows click in the dash and don't go up or down, the rears do though. I think it's a window motor/regulator problem but will definitely test before tearing into a door. The rear wiper doesn't do anything, the passenger mirror doesn't either. Other than that, the bare minimum of power features seem to work. Still no AC, probably just going to swap compressor out, seems simple, it's a reman unit already so I'm not too big a fan.

Then comes my ultimate frustration of the week, the batteries in both this and my 2000 have failed, one fails load testing and the other isn't holding charge. Walmart here we come.
I'm tempted to buy the 49$ WM battery.
 






I've had two of them, they're stout, got one in a V10 truck with a box on the back and it's two years old now and still a touch of the key to crank that thing. I've got a Carquest one in the 2000 at the moment, can't say I like it much, the terminals suck.
 






Advice appreciated. So I'm now driving it, it's tagged and insured and at least for the midbit my daily driver until I find another V8, I love my V8s, and miss my 2000 for sure, I was planning on driving to 300K miles. It is surely missed. That said, first drive with this and it shows it's been sitting, it creaks and cracks and needs front wheel bearings I think, it growls up front but everything is tight. Ball joints are the OEM ones, they're actually still tight though, so that's good. End links are shot like all the originals are.

Now for the stuff that doesn't work, the vents are on defrost only, the AC compressor is bad, the heat is mildly warm but I think the thermostat is bad since the needle does whatever it pleases, comes up and goes down and never runs hot and never stays warm. Check engine light came on, haven't checked why yet.

Both front power windows do not work, the relays do not click, they are stone cold dead. The rear left does not go up all the way, it stops about an inch low. The headlights did not work, I worked the MFS back and forth and man the lights are great in this car, I haven't had lights like this in anything since Eddie. It does seem to at least leak oil, no idea how that goes, or if it is a major leak at the rear main, it's dark though, needs servicing. Otherwise it's broken interior pieces and odd and end parts away from a nice car again.
 






Just tackle the easy / inexpensive/ mandatory stuff...thermostat / wheel bearings... grab a bunch of relays from junkyard ...etc...
On window this guy is the only reasonably priced on window regulator assemblies on Ebay now- noticed our second gen assemblies are getting pricey whereas 3rd gen's are cheap (and my Jeep GC ones are cheap too - $28- $35!) -He's out of your rear/ left now - probably get it in soon.(Instead of going through hassle tearing in there to see if it's "this or that" for the price / effort I just get complete assembly and be done with it.)
Power Window Regulator Motor Assembly Front Left For Ford Mercury Mazda 741-673 | eBay
 






Go plan on the windows is first pull the door card, find the connector and test for power, I don't think the master switch is sending the power where it goes. I like the truck, it's a good spare vehicle to just have, I don't have but like $260 in the truck so far not counting my 2000's wheels and tires I swapped with until I get done putting off getting the nice ones for the stock 15" wheels mounted.
 






Do you need any more wheels? I now have spare wheels from my 93 and 98 Limited's(they are 15's), and I'm looking at another 98 Limited now. I stopped in Maryville to look it over, it's got 172, past rear damage, LF window is flaky(hopefully motor). I hope to go drive it tomorrow, and then see if they will deal.
 






I actually snagged the fourth 15" OEM one today, they're a near mint set. This truck is coming along nicely, the reverse being slow is going away, was just sticky from sitting. Motor leaks at the rear main, like they all do I was told. Apparently there's a TSB on it even for 96. I did discover the hatch opens but the back glass does not however. I haven't got that high on my radar though, I rather the hatch open and not just the glass. My 2000 the latches were stuck yet again on and the glass was all that opened.

*Edit* I'm taking the trailer hitch off my 2000 tomorrow, I sprayed the less than great bolts down today, they look like they should turn. There's no light harness but I never pull our covered trailer so no worries, biggest I have is a 5x8 Carry-On. I did notice today it'll go 70 MPH with the 16" wheels and tires off my 2000 and not turn 2,500 RPMs. Reason why? This is one of the rare trucks with 3:41 rear axle gears. I'm not a fan but man it's GREAT on gas.
 






Good Deal! SOHC? I paid $400 with 2 year old tires and it had a left side timing chain problem. I have spent several hundred since acquisition and still not running. Is South Carolina a "salt free" state as Alabama is? That issue alone is worth many $$$$.
 






Nope, 96 is a 4.0 OHV, and it runs like it's a brand new motor. This truck is perfect underneath, and when I say perfect, the stickers are still under there. Even if I get another V8, I like this truck enough to just keep it, I like the truck in all honesty, and I like it a LOT. This truck I would go far enough to say is a A grade example of a 96, if I wanted to buy a 96 anywhere, this is what I'd set out to buy. Paint is faded but it's dark green, the interior is pretty clean, could use some covers on the cloth seats is all I really plan on doing inside of it.


My Eddie Bauer is just this clean, and is why I ultimately V8 swapped, I wanted to keep that truck the rest of my life, it's like a first truck to me. My 2000 was rusty.
 






Does it have 4.10 gears?
96 with a 4.0 is a bomb proof setup
The 4r55e is the weak point, still I have seen almost 400K miles out of the 95-96 trucks with original engine more then once.
Super score! If it has 4.10 gears you could sell the rear axle for $4-600
Lets see some pics!
Id buy $200 gen II's all day long, especially with 98K miles!!!
 






It's got 3:41s, I think, I'll have to double check. I'm loving the truck so far, I should upload a video online of this engine running, it's the quietest 4.0 I've heard in YEARS, it's silent driving down the road. I put some 5w30 Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft filter, it's got a ton of new already on it, dealer serviced appears to me like. Definite score, no plans to sell it.

Speaking of axles, I have a pair of 3:73 LS ones here, I think I'm going to get rid of one and keep a spare, what's a decent price on em?
 






The gears in that should be a 3.73 or 3.55, the 4.10 gears were still rare in 1996. Check your door VIN tag, for the axle code.

I just got another 98 Limited, that one with 172k on it. I drove it and looked at it longer today, it will need plenty of work. The appearance is good, past new paint with some front/rear body damage hints(new grille and plastic access cover above lights). I expect this one to need plenty of basic care, the upper BJ boots are gone. Hopefully nothing will go bad too fast for me to keep ahead of things, while working it. I just ordered more Amsoil ATF, I'll do that and the TC fluid first thing, rear gear oil if I have time.
 






That's the main thing I struggled with on my 2000 is when the alternator died, it just overcame me, it got to where every single drive, something new popped up. I don't doubt if I go through with what I posted on about it, I'll end up putting pretty well a whole new truck under the hood and in the doors. It's a decision to be made for sure. I hate to just toss a V8 because they're hard to get anymore, I had to build my Eddie Bauer to get one that clean.
 






3.73 explorer rear axle is worth $300-500 depending on your local market
Front diff is worth about $75-150
v8 drivetrain is worth $500-1200 depending on the condition
A non running or bad 5.0 is worth $2-400 as a core, the 4r70w trans is worth $100 or so as a core
4 ea cat converters from the 5.0 can fetch you about $30-60 each depending on the market prices for palladium and platinum
good tires and wheels, battery, seats, and scrap metal, aluminum and copper are the rest of the ways to recoup your $$$ from a non running exploder. (You can see why the scrap business is lucrative)

Some 96 with the 4.0 had 4.10 gears, rare yes, but they do exist.
 






I wish the market here was better for Fords, selling odd stuff here isn't as good as some other areas. I have the old 93 Limited engine and trans still, the wheels, and now two sets of 96-98 Limited wheels. I drove my new 98 to work, it is going to need plenty of TLC, likely it'd strand me if I drove it on route as it is. The alternator whines a lot, that's the loudest noise so far, and I think I feel/hear the front hubs. Checking fluids is first to do, see what other things turn up.

I see some new off parts in this truck though. It has a new right switch on the steering wheel, radio bezel, cluster surround trim, grille, trim just under hood at grill top edge. I wish the interior was grey so I could use the rug and headliner, and other minor items. It will be a nice truck when I get it right and my Mountaineer running again. Then it can be for sale, a friend wants this kind of Winter vehicle.
 






The selling market down here in north Alabama is weak too for used cars and parts.
 



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listen fellas I moved to within 60 miles of Canada the closest town has a population of 7500 people with the biggest city of Spokane Washington being 1.75 hours away.
This is rural America, alot less money and customers then my old stomping grounds....but I have found that people here will come from even further away and are even more careful with their money and they keep their trucks ALOT longer...parts and work may not sell as quickly, but the people still find a way. Parts still sell, trucks still sell and people will come from 6-10 hours away to buy stuff/get things fixed if it is at a good price.
I was not going to raise my kid and grandkids that near 7 million people with all the corruption, gangs, pressure....I wanted them to grow up more like we did, back to our roots!
Parts market strong or not....if you post it they will come.
 






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