2000 Mountaineer - Whine on acceleration - Quiet as a mouse on deceler

[pjfsail]

That sounds good, it's not hard at all to R&R the pan and gear oil. Get a hand oil pump made for quarts, that makes filling much easier. I hope it doesn't shows any more material the next time, but replacing the axle bearings and seals is not that bad, if the cross pin bolt loosens without breaking.

I use Amsoil also, their Severe Gear is excellent, though it's gone up a dollar or so($14ish for the 75W-140).

Finally some good weather in the High Desert and I was able to pump and pump and pump gear oil into the rear differential and I added the modifier. My plan is to run this and I have I have Royal Purple to refill the differential after I have driven a few miles. I filled the transfer case with ATF and let the Mountaineer down off it's blocks. NOW IT WONT' START! IT TURNS OVER BUT DOESN'T START. What do I do? I think it must have something to do with the anti theft system. There is a light on the dash that blinks on and off that says THEFT. The driver's door lock acts weird too. It doesn't lock with the rest of the doors. Once I got it to lock some how and then couldn't get it to unlock. What is a guy to do? Go up to the mountain top and cry out for help. Guys and Gals I:m on the mountain top. HELP

 

[Mbrooks420]

The theft light blinks rapidly when trying to start? If so you have a PATS issue. Have a second key?

 

[donalds]

Test your battery and reset the computer

 

[pjfsail]

The theft light blinks rapidly when trying to start? If so you have a PATS issue. Have a second key?

Yes, I have 2 keys both have the fob where you can lock the doors remotely. I have tried both of them and clicked on the key fob a number of times. The engine will turn over but will not start with both keys.

 

[pjfsail]

Test your battery and reset the computer

I know how to test my battery for proper voltage, 13.4 volts the last time I tested, is that what you mean? I don't know what you mean by "reset the computer". How do I do that?

 

[Mbrooks420]

Unhook the battery for several minutes.

 

[CDW6212R]

When you insert the key and turn it to RUN, don't go to the crank position until you see if the THEFT light flashes. If that light flashes, don't crank the starter, that just wastes battery power.

It will not ever start if the THEFT light flashes initially. Be sure the battery is good and the keys are the right ones. Has the trim ever been off from underneath the column, below the key cylinder? That is where the PATS receiver/transmitter is. It has a fragile connection to the key cylinder, if that come off or breaks, the key code will not be received.

Turn the key to on until the THEFT light does not flash, turn it off and then on until you get the THEFT light to stay on, which means it accepted the key code. Only then can you crank it and have it start.

 

[pjfsail]

When you insert the key and turn it to RUN, don't go to the crank position until you see if the THEFT light flashes. If that light flashes, don't crank the starter, that just wastes battery power.

It will not ever start if the THEFT light flashes initially. Be sure the battery is good and the keys are the right ones. Has the trim ever been off from underneath the column, below the key cylinder? That is where the PATS receiver/transmitter is. It has a fragile connection to the key cylinder, if that come off or breaks, the key code will not be received.

Turn the key to on until the THEFT light does not flash, turn it off and then on until you get the THEFT light to stay on, which means it accepted the key code. Only then can you crank it and have it start.

I will go do that this morning. Thanks. I have only had the Mountaineer for a short time so I don't know it's history. Both keys look to me like the original keys and each one has a key fob that locks and unlocks the doors. I had driven it about 400 miles (no problems with either keys) until I jacked up the vehicle to level it and to make room so I could slide under to change the oil in the differential. When I finished changing the oil in the transfer case and differential I let the truck down and tried to start it and no start. This is the first time there was a no start issue.

 

[fast_dave]

Intermittent Door Lock/Unlock Problems = Very carefully check the Driver Door Wiring from the Large/Black/Cylinder (attached to the driver door) to Cabin.

Specifically, what you're looking for is cracked electric door lock wires/insulation caused by the drivers door being cycled a billion times.

Water gets inside of the cracked insulation and "corrodes" the wire with blue fuzz, and the wire eventually breaks - sometimes obvious, sometimes not so obvious within the confines of the cracked insulation. Go slow and check each wire.

This is a well documented problem - should be easy to find on this site utilizing search feature - hope that helps!

 

[gmanpaint]

Might not be Pats, for grins, Check the fuel pump cut off safety switch. It might have triggered it when you was working on the rig. It's under the dash, against the firewall, passenger side. It has a reset button, push it and try to start it again.

I doubt the chip in both keys failed. Not sure how the wires just broke under the column or in the door jamb when working under the rig, and the inertia switch sounds more reasonable to me here. Did you drop it off the jack? lol

 

[Mbrooks420]

I actually triggered the cutoff switch once hammering under the truck with a mallet

 

[pjfsail]

When you insert the key and turn it to RUN, don't go to the crank position until you see if the THEFT light flashes. If that light flashes, don't crank the starter, that just wastes battery power.

It will not ever start if the THEFT light flashes initially. Be sure the battery is good and the keys are the right ones. Has the trim ever been off from underneath the column, below the key cylinder? That is where the PATS receiver/transmitter is. It has a fragile connection to the key cylinder, if that come off or breaks, the key code will not be received.

Turn the key to on until the THEFT light does not flash, turn it off and then on until you get the THEFT light to stay on, which means it accepted the key code. Only then can you crank it and have it start.

I followed your instructions to the letter and with both keys. When I get in and sit down in the drivers seat the THEFT light is flashing. When I put the key in and turn it to the ON position and wait until the light quits flashing, it quits flashing right away, and turn it off and then did that a few times to make sure I was getting it right. The THEFT light quits flashing but it still will not start.

 

[pjfsail]

Unhook the battery for several minutes.

I removed the ground cable from the battery cleaned it and the post and reinstalled the cable. Still will not start.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I actually triggered the cutoff switch once hammering under the truck with a mallet. Did you check that as suggested by Gmanpaint?

 

[Turdle]

I removed the ground cable from the battery cleaned it and the post and reinstalled the cable. Still will not start.

Please back up, take a breath and let's try this from the beginning.

Follow this procedure here, follow it exactly and let us know if you have an issue with the steps or have a result.

How to: - Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

 

[pjfsail]

I actually triggered the cutoff switch once hammering under the truck with a mallet

Might not be Pats, for grins, Check the fuel pump cut off safety switch. It might have triggered it when you was working on the rig. It's under the dash, against the firewall, passenger side. It has a reset button, push it and try to start it again.

I doubt the chip in both keys failed. Not sure how the wires just broke under the column or in the door jamb when working under the rig, and the inertia switch sounds more reasonable to me here. Did you drop it off the jack? lol

I looked for the switch but did not find it. On the passenger side firewall is a large orange wire (10 gauge) and one small black wire (14 gauge) that goes to a little black (don't know what to call it) connector of some sort but there was not a switch on it. That is all that is on the firewall.
No, did not drop it. I gently jacked the truck up and set it down on jack stands. Once it was up in the air it did not move until I gently let it down
I did not hammer or do anything like that. I removed the rear cover, let the oil drain out, cleaned up the cover, inspected the carrier, ring gear and pinion, glued the cover back on, and filled it with oil. There was no reason to do anything loud.
Here is something to consider. My shop is covered and open on 2 sides (I live in the desert). It sits on a gentle slope. In order to make sure the differential and transfer case were level when I filled them I had to jack the back of the Mountaineer up about 4" higher then the front end. Is it possible by doing this I have triggered something that has nothing to do with the anit theft system?

 

[pjfsail]

I actually triggered the cutoff switch once hammering under the truck with a mallet

Might not be Pats, for grins, Check the fuel pump cut off safety switch. It might have triggered it when you was working on the rig. It's under the dash, against the firewall, passenger side. It has a reset button, push it and try to start it again.

I doubt the chip in both keys failed. Not sure how the wires just broke under the column or in the door jamb when working under the rig, and the inertia switch sounds more reasonable to me here. Did you drop it off the jack? lol

I looked for the switch but did not find it. On the passenger side firewall is a large orange wire (10 gauge) and one small black wire (14 gauge) that goes to a little black (don't know what to call it) connector of some sort but there was not a switch on it. That is all that is on the firewall.
No, did not drop it. I gently jacked the truck up and set it down on jack stands. Once it was up in the air it did not move until I gently let it down
I did not hammer or do anything like that. I removed the rear cover, let the oil drain out, cleaned up the cover, inspected the carrier, ring gear and pinion, glued the cover back on, and filled it with oil. There was no reason to do anything loud.
Here is something to consider. My shop is covered and open on 2 sides (I live in the desert). It sits on a gentle slope. In order to make sure the differential and transfer case were level when I filled them I had to jack the back of the Mountaineer up about 4" higher then the front end. Is it possible by doing this I have triggered something that has nothing to do with the anti theft system?

 

[pjfsail]

Please back up, take a breath and let's try this from the beginning.

Follow this procedure here, follow it exactly and let us know if you have an issue with the steps or have a result.

How to: - Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

Jon, as soon as I eat some breakfast I will be right on it.

 

[Turdle]

Ok yeah, you better have some breakfast.

Another thing, is the fuel level over , or, is it under 1/4 tank indicated? Sometimes low fuel level will do this. especially if the truck is parked on a "downwhill" incline, front lower than rear.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, parking on a downward slope with little gas in the tank will often not let the fuel pickup get any gas.

The PATS isn't the problem if the THEFT light is going out, so your keys are fine.

The inertia switch is easy to find by feeling around behind the glovebox, on the firewall. It's a small 1x1x2" device with a top that has little depression/valley in it. The switch is a red button in that valley, push it down. Flipping the car displaces that switch up to the top, stopping the pump from running.

If it's full enough and near level, the fuel pressure may be down. How well does it crank, you said the voltage was good before?