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2001 Sport Trans problem.

Discussion in 'Under the Hood' started by Noslo351, December 27, 2004.

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    1. Noslo351

      Noslo351 New Member

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      About 80% of the time when I put the shifter in drive it will not engage immediately. It takes a few seconds or needs a little rev to make it engage. All fords are notorious for the mlps (Manual lever position switch) going bad. I am hoping that’s the issue. Any ideas?

      The truck is 2001 sport with a 4L. Not sure on the tranny model but it feels like a five speed automatic when you count the shifts. I have a 4/48 extended power train warranty with a $100 dollar deductible so if the problem is a common issue that can be solved for around a hundred bucks then I can do it to save on down time. Thanks for your help in advance!
       
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    3. TPLYNCH

      TPLYNCH Well-Known Member

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      You have the 5R55E (most likely). Chances are it is a loose valve body or other simple problem that is causing it not to build enough pressure to engage. Brain has posted many pics of the tranny and offending parts. Search for 5R55E look for posts by Brain, Glacier or Operahouse
       
    4. Eneurb

      Eneurb Active Member

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      I'd spend the hundred bucks... reason being that if you mess with it yourself, and don't resolve the issue, and the tech. at the dealer notices that you have fiddled with the trans, they have the power to void your warranty.
       
    5. Noslo351

      Noslo351 New Member

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      Well just for the heck of it I changed the fluid and filter, I also retorqued the valve body bolts. It still does the same thing. To elaborate on the problem it seems to only do it when shifting from reverse to drive only. If you hit the gas it will rev and then slam into gear. Going from reverse to second/first will engage correctly. Any other ideas guys?
       
      Last edited: January 4, 2005
    6. Brain

      Brain Active Member

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      Nolslo351, it sounds like the manual lever position switch. Since it goes into 1 and 2 OK, then we can rule out (at least beyond a first attempt) a bad pump, low control pressure, bad forward clutch assembly, bad seals for the forward clutch on the center support, and because you did what you said you can remove from the list low fluid, loose/tight valve body bolts, and plugged filter. I think all that is left is the MLPS and valves that are sticking/dirty. On the last note, a single bad solenoid valve can be over the $100, and that doesn't even count your time.

      I'd either spend the $100 deductible because that is why you have the insurance policy, or I'd live with shifting into 1 or 2 first and then into drive.

      How close are you to the end of the extended warranty period?
       
    7. Noslo351

      Noslo351 New Member

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      It's a 4yr 48k powertrain. We have about three years left. I talked to a tech at a local Ford dealer, he said the mlps would'nt cause that problem. He said it's more than likley a bad seal in the tranny. I am probably going to bring it in for repair. Just wanted to try before giving in.
       
    8. Glacier991

      Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Moderator Emeritus

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      I suspect that either the Digital Transmission Range sensor may be out of adjustment or you have a bad EPC circuit somehow. Otherwise it could be a bad input from the PCM. (If the PCM was getting bad inputs from the Throttle position sensor, RPMs, Vehicle speed or EPC it might cause a bad pcm input to the transmission.) Another case where the Rotunda Transmission tester would pinpoint these issues immediately.

      You COULD have a sticky valve in the valve body as well.

      (That said let me explain what the EPC does, especially since is seems to be a sore point in these transmissions somehow. The EPC can electronically control the line pressure in the transmission downstream of it. If you have the right tool [for example a FORD New Generation Star Tester] you can select the EPC and isolate it, and send it a desired pressure from 15 to 90 lbs. to the solenoid. If you had a pressure tester (I wish more people had those in their tool boxes) hooked up to that tap (they allow specific lines to be tapped in the 5R series) you could watch and see your selected pressure show up on the gauge if the EPC was healthy. It's a novel idea, and as with many novel ideas, it takes a while before all the bugs get worked out. )

      There are no aftermarket EPC solenoids I am aware of yet and they cost over $100 from the dealer. Go for the deductible.
       
      Last edited: January 5, 2005

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