2002 Explorer Sound System: NEED ADVICE! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2002 Explorer Sound System: NEED ADVICE!

Zelatio

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 4, 2008
Messages
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City, State
St. Louis, Missouri
Year, Model & Trim Level
'02 XL
Okay, first off, sorry for the annoying caps title. But it really does get attention. I will have a ton of questions, so please hang with me, I have been trying for weeks to try and get straight answers out of other people at other forums with no help. First, I would like to lay out the system I would like to put in. I am looking for a SPL(loud?) system, and this is what I have come up with. The stock speakers are fine for me, and I will unhook the stock sub.

Head Unit:JVC KW-XG500
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18419

Subs: Kicker 15"
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16276

Amp: Lanzar Vibe286
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16493

Now I haven't been able to find out if this system works. The max power of the subs is 1000w RMS. The amp says it will do 1000w RMS at 4ohm, or 1650w RMS at 2ohm. Another forum said that the amp pushes out 900w RMS max, which I can't find believable, I don't think they would lie that much. So will 1000 at 4 ohms be okay? Or can I bump it up to use 2ohms? I can get either 2 ohm or 4 ohm subs, just depends on what I get told.

Next, I heard someone else say that the explorer is stock amplified and I would need to rewire the car. What does that mean? Does that mean the stock HU amplifies the 4 speakers? I am not sure what he meant. I thought putting in the new HU would be enough. Next question, how would I wire stock speakers to new HU? Also, can I remove the stock sub and amp?

Next: What kind of wiring will be necessary and can my stock alternator handle the power that will be required?

Thanks for help in advance, I'm sure I will have more questions.
 



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Lanzar = crappy flea market brand, overrated, please don't waste your money.

The only worthwhile amps from Lanzar are the Opti series.

That amp will put out about 500-600 CLEAN watts...not kidding. Do you really expect to get 4000 REAL watts for under 200 dollars...haha I doubt it.

Save up and get something that has real power ratings

The sound from a speaker is 90% enclosure. I have single 12 in a transmission line enclosure that I built with 200-300 watts. Most people think I have two 12's or two 15s with 1000 watts.
 












Lanzar = crappy flea market brand, overrated, please don't waste your money.

The only worthwhile amps from Lanzar are the Opti series.

That amp will put out about 500-600 CLEAN watts...not kidding. Do you really expect to get 4000 REAL watts for under 200 dollars...haha I doubt it.

Save up and get something that has real power ratings

Okay, can you suggest something that will power the subs? Or the better question to ask is: will the stock electrical system be able to handle those subs or will I have to select a less powerful set?
 






Okay, can you suggest something that will power the subs? Or the better question to ask is: will the stock electrical system be able to handle those subs or will I have to select a less powerful set?

Well lets start off with...how much money do you want to invest??


My 98' exploder with the factory electrical and only one battery up front can handle a true 1500 rms amp...I'd guess a current draw between 130-160 amps.

BUT...that is because I have upgraded every ground wire possible on my explorer...A lot more than the normal "big three".

Here is a little vid with a single 12 and 150 watts.

th_MOV02263.jpg
 






Free equipment, price matching and discounts on additional purchases...

Eh, I'm a little confused. The one you suggested is $250. Since when is $190>$250? I'm actually going to get it for $150 off of amazon. Or does this have to do with the six preouts? I read and it says that it only has 2, unless I am missing something.

The preouts on mine are 2 front 2 center 2 rear... The saving is in the deal. Are your harnesses included (both)? And the kit?

(I didn't suggest the 2nd one, I was just pointing out mine)
 






The preouts on mine are 2 front 2 center 2 rear... The saving is in the deal. Are your harnesses included (both)? And the kit?

(I didn't suggest the 2nd one, I was just pointing out mine)

No but very good point. I will definitely be going with crutchfield instead.

I am looking to spend around $1000. What I had above was just my un-knowledge at work(AKA: no knowledge). What do you think I can get for $1000? I am looking for SPL, no quality. Hope I used the term right.
 






Also crutchfield sends the harness and tools you need to install the Deck so you don't have to go out and buy everything
 






Those fellas up there know... ^^ what they say is as good as gold!
 






Did a little research and I really like the XG-700, so I think I will be getting it.

So here is my list so far:

Head Unit: JVC KW-Xg700
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=105KWGX700&c=3&tp=5684&tab=review


That leaves $750 for amp and subs. I will be getting speakers later. What subs can I get that won't stress the electrical system but still have some good thump. I trust you guys to build a good system, you know a hell of a lot more than I do.
 






If you like Lanzar, the Opti line is good stuff. Head and shoulders above their other offerings. I really like the minis.
http://www.lanzar.com/citempage.asp?MODEL=RBOPTI2X300D
there's other models. These are full range class-D amps, so they can be used for anything with minimal power consumption.

You choose what sub(s) you want, and we'll help you choose a proper amplifier(s) to run them.

Oh, bang for the buck on subwoofers goes to either the Dayton RS's or the Mach5 MAW's.
 






Also crutchfield sends the harness and tools you need to install the Deck so you don't have to go out and buy everything

Their customer service is the best in the business, too. I buy all my speakers wherever I get the best pricing, but my head units always come from Crutchfield. It's the only thing I've ever had fail on me.
 






If you like Lanzar, the Opti line is good stuff. Head and shoulders above their other offerings. I really like the minis.
http://www.lanzar.com/citempage.asp?MODEL=RBOPTI2X300D
there's other models. These are full range class-D amps, so they can be used for anything with minimal power consumption.

You choose what sub(s) you want, and we'll help you choose a proper amplifier(s) to run them.

Oh, bang for the buck on subwoofers goes to either the Dayton RS's or the Mach5 MAW's.


Tried to look for Dayton and Mach5, couldn't find much.

My friend swears by Kicker, and he has a decent setup that sounds nice.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14814

Saw these, not too powerful but judging from reviews will still deliver in terms of good bass. What would I need to power two of these, or do you recommend other subs.

And yes I am open to anything. You suggest the sub and the amp if you want, I'm fine with that.
 






The Opti Mono Class D amps are the only amps I'd buy from them...that amp you linked won't put out more than 300 watts
 






The Opti Mono Class D amps are the only amps I'd buy from them...that amp you linked won't put out more than 300 watts

Yea, did some more research and that seems to be the case. So if I wanted to power two of these:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14814

What amplifiers for under $400 am I looking at? I need to get wiring, so remember that in pricing.

BTW, I'm not stuck on Lanzar, that was just one I found and I thought it was good for cheap price. I want something quality that will last a long time.
 






400 dollars for a sub amp and wiring only??

I used to run one 15 and 500 watts...it was louder than a lot of people around my area because of the box

So you are willing to give up a lot of space in the back??
 






No, I have $750 for sub, amp, and wiring. 400 was if I got those Kickers I listed above. I can give up room no problem. Only problem is is that I have a third row seat and I will have to give it up and proves difficult to mount somewhere. But that is okay, dont need third row.
 






I'm just curious... What type of sound system are you building? Or, what is the basic purpose of your sound system? This might help save a couple $$ Thanks!
 



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He's going for straight-up thump... SPL refers to Sound Pressure Level (I think?) and describes the loudness of the sound as opposed to sound quality. It normally takes substantially more money to get the system really loud and to have great quality...
 






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