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2002 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0L 6Cyl-will start but almost immediately cuts off

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by 2ndcovenant, September 8, 2016.

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  1. 2ndcovenant

    2ndcovenant New Member

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    Hi Folks,

    First off, Thanks to everyone of you that have helped me get the truck to this stage. It has been almost two months of not being able to drive anywhere but the help from fellow forumers has been outstanding.

    Background: the truck was running fine, no forewarning issues at all, until I drove down the road to a grocery store. On the way back home, I took a right turn and the truck tried to die on me. I gave it some gas and got home okay. Later that night, I had to go back to the grocery store, and one again upon leaving, the truck tried to cut off when I made a right hand turn but this time it succeeded in cutting off. I turned the key to off and turned it back to start and the engine came back up fine and I got home okay. A day later, I had to drive somewhere only this time the truck would not start. At that point, I could get the alternator to make it's back to back clicking noise but the truck refused to do more than that.

    Current state: cutting through a long tale, the truck now has a new starter, new alternator, new battery, new fuel pump, and new fuel filter. Now the truck will crank and even start but almost immediately after it starts, the engine cuts off again as if it is not getting gas.

    I was able to get my father, who was visiting to help on the truck, to help me get a hold of a harbor freight tools fuel pump test kit and a vacuum test kit. I don't know how to use the vacuum test kit at all. The haynes manual says that I need to test a vacuum plug somewhere near the firewall and behind the intake manifold but the only picture that it gives says that they can't even show it exactly because there is too much in the way, a "here's as close as we can get you to it" picture. As to the fuel pump test kit, it is designed to be attached to the schraeder valve which is part of the fuel rail, which is really easy to find honestly, and should be easy to read. Attach the bigger valve hose to the gauge, attach the smaller valve hose (the one that actually fits our schraeder valve) to the bigger one (using the bigger as an adapter), and then attach the other end of the smaller hose to the schraeder valve and turn the ignition switch to on (BUT not start). The gauge should read between 33 and 37 from what I have been told. The catch is that this gauge needle isn't moving at all, and this is the replacement gauge that they had to give me because the first one leaked gas all over the place. Notice what I just said though,....it leaked gas all over the place. If I take the gauge and hoses off and use a small screwdriver tip to depress the schraeder valve, gas just sprays out like mad.

    From what I understand, this means that at least the pump and filter are getting gas to the engine but at this point I am at a loss. I don't know what could cause the engine to quit running right after starting. I actually had it run for about 10 seconds but only once. Most of the time, it cuts off right after it starts.

    I really need some help badly.
     
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  3. plasticseng

    plasticseng Active Member

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    Do you have any codes?
     
  4. 2ndcovenant

    2ndcovenant New Member

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    Strangely enough, No. No codes came up on the OBD2 scanner at all. In fact, I tried to scan several different times.
     
  5. 2ndcovenant

    2ndcovenant New Member

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    I keep hearing a lot of different things. On Edmunds site, a ton of people with various Explorers have this same problem but no one actually comes back and says that they were able to diagnose the problem and fix it. Some said that it could be the Idle Air Bypass Valve... could that be it? I have no idea where this piece even is so I am trying to research it.
     
  6. 2ndcovenant

    2ndcovenant New Member

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    I just removed the IAC and cleaned it using throttle body cleaner, and I also tested the spark plugs and I have spark although I could not tell it the spark was igniting at even intervals. Some sparks were bright and, if any were really there, others were very hard to see. I may have simply not seen the sparks due to lighting but I did not have a way to make the area darker. Also without a decent fuel gauge test kit (the one from HFT will not even move the dial on the gauge), I can tell that fuel is getting to the fuel rail but I can't tell whether it is getting enough gas. Cleaning the IAC did not make a difference.
     
  7. 2ndcovenant

    2ndcovenant New Member

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    I am going to retest the spark plugs after dark.
     
  8. plasticseng

    plasticseng Active Member

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    Maybe you already answered this, but is it throwing codes? You also need a functional fuel pressure gauge to see where you are.
     
  9. OB Mountaineer

    OB Mountaineer New Member

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    fuel rail pressure sensor?
     
  10. zerodevil

    zerodevil Well-Known Member

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    did you verify that the IAC is still in working order with a digital multimeter? cleaning it wont do any good if the coil inside that is used to control it is no good.
     
  11. 2ndcovenant

    2ndcovenant New Member

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    Sorry, I had multiple issues all going on at the same time and I posted that it was finalky fixed in the last thread. The fuel gauge read a full tank but as it turns out, after all of that work.....i replaced the fuel pump with a newer model and lo and behold the fuel gauge wasn't reading right. The tank was bone dry. The fuel gauge still isn't working and I don't know how to fix that but at least the truck is running again. Thank you though.
     
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