2002 Ford Explorer - Won't turn over

[714JPP]

I've spent two days researching this all over and while there's a lot of great information, I couldn't find an answer for why I'm getting this in my diagnose.

I'm getting no crank at all. Terminals are clean, the battery is putting out 12Vs, lights come on with full power, radio, and interior dash works. But not crank at all and no symptoms this was coming. Parked it one afternoon and the next 30 minutes would not crank.

The starter is getting 12V at the + connection from the battery. But where I'm puzzled is the S connection is getting 12V without turning on the ignition. Every thing I've read says it should show 0 volts until someone turns on the engine. After it's turned on it still show 12Vs.

???

Does this still point to a bad starter??

I also tried starting it with the screwdriver method, it cranked but it did not start.

I have not found anything about what this could mean. ?

Thank you in advance for you help.

 

[IndianaKenny]

I have a couple of questions...

1. When you tried the screwdriver method, did you have the key in the "run" position? If not, it will crank but never start.

2. The BIG wire on the starter will always show as "hot". The smaller wire will only show hot when the key tumbler is in the crank position. This crank position will put 12 volts to the solenoid, thus engaging the starter, and hopefully starting the engine.

3. Be VERY careful, when messing around here.... Read some of the posts about the PATS system, they'll scare the heck out of you, because you're already toying with the security system, and letting the PATS system think you're stealing your own car.

 

[714JPP]

I have a couple of questions...

1. When you tried the screwdriver method, did you have the key in the "run" position? If not, it will crank but never start.

YES IndianaKelly, key was in the ON position, not like someone was turning it like when I tested the S bolt.



2. The BIG wire on the starter will always show as "hot". The smaller wire will only show hot when the key tumbler is in the crank position. This crank position will put 12 volts to the solenoid, thus engaging the starter, and hopefully starting the engine.

Right, that's what everything says about the smaller wire, S wire. But I'm getting 12V before somebody turns ignition on to get a crank. As stated it still does show 12V.

From everything I read I should not get 12V without turning on the igniation to get a crank just like you said.

Anyone know what this could be pointing to?

 

[IndianaKenny]

I would lean towards the ignition switch, not the starter. The starter is doing what it's supposed to do, when you use the screwdriver as a jumper. The ignition switch, (not the key/tumbler part), is in your steering column, on the left side, under the plastic cover. There is a YOUTUBE video, that is worth watching,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVqnmUKnoPQ
Hopefully someone else may chime in....

 

[714JPP]

Mechanic has had a look at it, says Starter is working good but my THEFT signal is blinking on the dash when the key is put in the ignition.

He went under the steering wheel looking for the PASS switch, tested it and failed. So basically the car alarm disable my car because of a bad switch.

With this no engine turnover problem, so many things could have been the culprit and yes I did see this diagnosed in one or two of the threads although most people ended up with a bad starter.

Part is $30 but labor is an additional $200.

I did go under the steering wheel looking for the Ignition switch and while I couldn't trouble shoot it, there was a faint clicking sound in there when the key is turned on, that must have been the PASS switch doing it.

Hope this helps others.

Thanks IndianaKelly for chiming in.