2004 4.0 vin k motor swap with 2003 vin k 4.0 HELP

[2004exlporer4.0]

I bought a 2004 exlporer knowing that the 4.0 sohc motor was overheated. Instead of resurfacing the heads and trying to retime it i figured i would head to a pick n pull and grab the long block closest to mine in year and eighth vin number. I ended up grabbing the whole motor out of a 2003 with the k vin number matching mine. The only difference is one year so....

What do i need to use on the 2003 long block from the old 2004 motor?
The intake manifold and valve covers is what i know to be true. Do i need to do the fuel rails? Flywheel? Exhaust manifold? x? y? z?

From what i have read almost all 4.0 sohc motors will work for what i am doing i just need some extra guidance because i will be dropping in the 2003 motor in the next couple of days and need some expert ford advice

 

[2000StreetRod]

electronic throttle control

The 2004 uses electronic throttle control but the 2003 has throttle cable control. The 2004 PCM controls the fuel pump and pressure with a pulse width modulator and there is a fuel pressure/temperature sensor on the fuel rail. I think the fuel pressure is about 40 psi. The 2003 has an intank fuel pressure sensor and a fuel pressure damper on the fuel rail. The fuel pressure is about 65 psi. You should determine if both engines have the same type (flow rating) injectors. You probably should use the 2004 fuel rails and engine wiring harness.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Easier to go the other way, what can you leave. Leave the oil pans, heads and timng cover. everything else must go including pulling the valve covers to check the guides on the replacement engine.

 

[IndianaKenny]

Use your old bolt-on sensors, injectors, rail, intake, and you'll be fine.

 

[2004exlporer4.0]

Easier to go the other way, what can you leave. Leave the oil pans, heads and timng cover. everything else must go including pulling the valve covers to check the guides on the replacement engine.

So basically just use the heads down out of the 2003. What do you mean by check the "guides"?

 

[2004exlporer4.0]

Use your old bolt-on sensors, injectors, rail, intake, and you'll be fine.

The need for using the old fuel rail with injectors is because the ecu is programmed differently and will only recognize the proper fuel ratio out of the 2004 before it throws something off?

The valve covers should also be changed as well, right?

Is the starter interchangeable?

 

[IndianaKenny]

I assume you bought the junkyard motor to drop in, instead of any rebuild?
I've successfully swapped engines on two separate Explorers, with junkyard motors. You are fine with taking everything off of your old motor, swapping them, and then putting your stuff back on the junkyard motor. Yes, we can make this swap sound intimidating, but at the end of the day, with the two motors you have, all you need to do, is swap them out. Your existing plumbing, wiring, the nuts and bolts, are going to be reused. Trust me, just do it! Some recommendations I would offer are: Don't open the a/c system, the heavy aluminum bracket can be unbolted from the engine, and slung out of the way. Same with the power steering pump. Pull the radiator, as it gives you that extra couple of inches to get the engine out and up. Everything is metric, EXCEPT the flywheel-to-torque converter nuts. The rear torx head bolts on the intake are a PITA if you don't have the correct extensions on your socket wrench. Swivels and wobble socket extensions are your friends when you unbolt the motor mounts. P B Blaster is an unsung hero of helping remove exhaust manifold nuts, just make sure you let it work, coat them often. Make some guide pins to help slide the motor back in place, (Saw the heads off a couple old bolts, they will save alot of frustration).

I know there are many people who can offer additional thoughts.... ideas... prayers, and I hope they chime in.

 

[Tech By Trade]

So basically just use the heads down out of the 2003. What do you mean by check the "guides"?

No no no, Take the wrecker engine down to a long block (remove everything you can without removing the valve covers, the timing cover, the oil pan, and tensioners. Then pull the valve covers off and inspect the inherent issue from the factory with this engine, the timing guides, for damage (not much point in putting in an engine to pull it right back out.) Then install all sensors, valve covers on the replacement if all looks kosher with the guides. Then drop in the engine. Next install the injectors, rails, exhaust and intake manifolds, starter, fan and anything else you took off the old engine.

Also, like he said, you don't have to pop the AC or remove the rad. You have about 6 inches to a foot of space if you just pull off the fan. Just tie the compressor to the wall when you pull the engine. I just put a piece of cardboard in front of mine, in case of flying tools and such. It will save you a couple hundred bucks.

Also make sure you have about 6 feet of wobble sockets to get those 2 nasty little bolts at the top of the bell housing. They were my arch nemesis during the process.

 

[IndianaKenny]

Those two nasty bolts can be gotten to, by unbolting the motor mounts from the engine, lowering the motor a couple of inches, then put a ratchet wrench on them from the top. I've done it, and my fat stubby fingers had little trouble getting them out or in. After you lower the engine, you'll have to support the transmission with a jack, but that's gotta be done anyway. The rubber mounts on the transmission crossmember has enough "give", to let the Tranny drop. This was done before putting the intake back on.

I did skip the part about the valve cover removal, to look at the cassettes, my mistake. You also need to drop the oil pan to see if there is any cream/tan/white colored pieces of plastic, that USED to be part of the cassettes.

Keep up up on your progress!!!

 

[2004exlporer4.0]

No no no, Take the wrecker engine down to a long block (remove everything you can without removing the valve covers, the timing cover, the oil pan, and tensioners. Then pull the valve covers off and inspect the inherent issue from the factory with this engine, the timing guides, for damage (not much point in putting in an engine to pull it right back out.) Then install all sensors, valve covers on the replacement if all looks kosher with the guides. Then drop in the engine. Next install the injectors, rails, exhaust and intake manifolds, starter, fan and anything else you took off the old engine.

Also, like he said, you don't have to pop the AC or remove the rad. You have about 6 inches to a foot of space if you just pull off the fan. Just tie the compressor to the wall when you pull the engine. I just put a piece of cardboard in front of mine, in case of flying tools and such. It will save you a couple hundred bucks.

Also make sure you have about 6 feet of wobble sockets to get those 2 nasty little bolts at the top of the bell housing. They were my arch nemesis during the process.

Thanks for the good information! The guides are intact which was a huge relief but as i turned the motor over manually and was checking the valves i found air coming out, but that wasn't the only thing, unfortunately I had some coolant hiss back out at me and then when i stopped on cylinder 2 a little pool of coolant stayed around the valve stem. When i transported the motor i didn't have it tied down since i had to borrow my friends van and left my straps in the truck (trucks fuel pump went out a couple days before), so, i know that coolant was sloshing around the motor because some left in one of the hoses.

Is this a sign of a bad head gasket or can i pray that coolant somehow found its way to the stem since the motor was sitting on its side.

 

[2004exlporer4.0]

Those two nasty bolts can be gotten to, by unbolting the motor mounts from the engine, lowering the motor a couple of inches, then put a ratchet wrench on them from the top. I've done it, and my fat stubby fingers had little trouble getting them out or in. After you lower the engine, you'll have to support the transmission with a jack, but that's gotta be done anyway. The rubber mounts on the transmission crossmember has enough "give", to let the Tranny drop. This was done before putting the intake back on.

I did skip the part about the valve cover removal, to look at the cassettes, my mistake. You also need to drop the oil pan to see if there is any cream/tan/white colored pieces of plastic, that USED to be part of the cassettes.

Keep up up on your progress!!!

Seriously good information my friend!

Thanks for the good information! The guides are intact which was a huge relief but as i turned the motor over manually and was checking the valves i found air coming out, but that wasn't the only thing, unfortunately I had some coolant hiss back out at me and then when i stopped on cylinder 2 a little pool of coolant stayed around the valve stem. When i transported the motor i didn't have it tied down since i had to borrow my friends van and left my straps in the truck (trucks fuel pump went out a couple days before), so, i know that coolant was sloshing around the motor because some left in one of the hoses.

Is this a sign of a bad head gasket or can i pray that coolant somehow found its way to the stem since the motor was sitting on its side.

 

[IndianaKenny]

I'd have to go with the bad head, head gasket, or any one of the other bad things we don't like to talk about.

 

[2004exlporer4.0]

I'd have to go with the bad head, head gasket, or any one of the other bad things we don't like to talk about.

That is what i have come to terms with as well, super unfortunately. I will be updating this thread with whatever changes and I still plan to pull a motor from the pick n pull (since I got the year warranty), wish me luck!

 

[Tech By Trade]

Dig around for the newest SOHC you can find. Don't limit yourself to explorers. Check mustangs, rangers, sport trac's, and land rovers if you come across one. They are all the same beast. Newer the better.

 

[2004exlporer4.0]

Dig around for the newest SOHC you can find. Don't limit yourself to explorers. Check mustangs, rangers, sport trac's, and land rovers if you come across one. They are all the same beast. Newer the better.

Any 4.0 SOHC long block matches up with my 2004 4.0 SOHC explorer's? The reason i ask is because i am using everything besides the block and heads from my explorer and would like to find a mangled 96 ranger (for example) and pull the block and heads and just dump it in with the 04 plumbing...

 

[Tech By Trade]

Blocks are the same, Heads are a bit different but they will work. Pans are the same. Just gotta swap everything else. Your ranger wont work though. It would have been OHV not SOHC.

 

[2004exlporer4.0]

Blocks are the same, Heads are a bit different but they will work. Pans are the same. Just gotta swap everything else. Your ranger wont work though. It would have been OHV not SOHC.

SOHC[edit]
The SOHC version was introduced in 1997 in the Ford Explorer, alongside the original pushrod version. It features a variable length intake manifold and produces 210 hp (157 kW) and 254 lb·ft (344 N·m)f. It uses a jackshaft in place of a camshaft to drive a timing chain to each cylinder head. Three timing chains are used, one from the crank to the jackshaft, one in the front of the engine to drive the cam for the left bank, and one on the back of the engine to drive the cam for the right bank. Ford has since phased out the engine in favor of the more powerful and efficient Duratec 37.[4]

A version of the engine is used in the Land Rover LR3 in Australia and Canada, producing 216 hp (161 kW) and 250 lb·ft (339 N·m) of torque at 3,000 rpm. The Land Rover version of the engine became unavailable in the United States for the 2008 model year.[5]

Applications:

2001–2011 Ford Ranger
2001–2010 Mazda B4000
1997–2010 Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer
2005–2010 Ford Mustang
2005–2009 Land Rover LR3

Don't know why i didn't do this before... I am sure this will help somebody else.

 

[2004exlporer4.0]

I went to the pick n pull and found several vin x and vin e that looked to be perfect candidates because of severe body damage. All of the 4.0 SOHC motors i am looking at are out of a 1997 explorer and up, rangers mountaineers etc dont are hard to come by at the yard.

All that i need is the block and heads so will my intake manifold from my 2004 line up with an 01? What about with a 97? The reason i ask is because the mounting bolts at first glance look a little off, since i was going from memory.

Will the fuel rails and injectors be compatible with the 01 block and heads? What about with a 97?

Will the flywheel from a vin e or vin x match with my vin k torque converter?

AGAIN, all that i need is the block and heads, so, will my 2004 plumbing, alternator bracket, power steering pump and headers all work with a block from a vin x or vin e? Keep in mind that the eighth vin digit on my 2004 is vin k.


I assume that i will need to swap everything onto the new block/heads over to the 2004 for reasons regarding wire harness and vacuum lines... etc

 

[2000StreetRod]

vin E

You want an engine with the 8th digit in the vin an E for SOHC V6. An X is for the OHV V6. I think all of the SOHC V6 engines have the 8 bolt crank flange that should mate with your flexplate.
The 2nd generation has a spacer that fits between the crank and the flexplate to make up the thickness difference between the flexplate and a flywheel.

Since you have a different transmission I don't know if the flexplates are the same.

It will be easier if you follow the shop procedure and install the cassettes before installing the heads. if you PM me your email address I'll send you a copy of the engine assembly instructions.

 

[Sedition]

All sohc v6 engines will work in their "Long Bare" state. Just use your original parts to cut out the guess work. Or man up, surface the heads and grind the valves and install a new chain kit as the chances are the junkyard engine will have dodgy chains anyway. While you're at it get the machine shop to take 0.020" thou off the cylinder head surfaces for extra power.