2006 Explorer 6 speed transmission shifting issue - update | Page 18 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2006 Explorer 6 speed transmission shifting issue - update

07 v8 tsb done

Did the update on my 07. Very happy with the smooth shifting.
 



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Took my wifes mounty to the dealership and they told me they did the newest reflash. Well its worse than ever. And the warrenty didnt cover it.
 






Very Late build 2008 V8 6 speed- Occasional Tip-in delay for 1st gear.

Hi:

Explorer was a late build 2008, think it was built in Aug., so almost the last 2008 off the line, before the 2009's.

Anyway, bought it with 40,000 miles..shortly after buying... it started doing this occasionally:

from a stop, step on gas...there is a delay and the engine revs then it lurches forward...

Is there any TSB that applies to this late 2008 6 speed...Actually still under warranty...
 






I bought my '06 V8 in 2009 with only 21k. For the first 6 months or so afterward I had the bump but it gradually went away on its own. Since then it's been probably the smoothest and most predictable tranny I've owned.

Give the tranny some time after any reflash to relearn the shift points before giving up hope. I have a new Focus with the dual clutch automatic that has an update out every couple months it seems and Ford says after each update to give it 1,000 miles to "relearn" its shift strategy. Just the nature of the software I guess.
 






Any TSB for a Aug 2008 build date V8 6 Speed?

Hi:

Explorer was a late build 2008, think it was built in Aug., so almost the last 2008 off the line, before the 2009's.

Anyway, bought it with 40,000 miles..shortly after buying... it started doing this occasionally:

from a stop, step on gas...there is a delay and the engine revs then it lurches forward...

Is there any TSB that applies to this late 2008 6 speed...Actually still under warranty...

Just curious if any late 2008's (08-08) have the problem...From a stop, once in a while, you step on the gas and it does not go anywhere for a second or two....is this a transmission issue or is the transmission telling the engine not to make power...

Help -??? Dealer said no codes and said it test drove fine....warranty is getting close to ending....
 






Just curious if any late 2008's (08-08) have the problem...From a stop, once in a while, you step on the gas and it does not go anywhere for a second or two....is this a transmission issue or is the transmission telling the engine not to make power...

Help -??? Dealer said no codes and said it test drove fine....warranty is getting close to ending....

Ride in the passenger seat with someone from the dealer driving. Make them do a quick stop and then go again, or accelerate right before you come to a complete stop. It's easy to make it do it if you know how.
 






08 LTD Intermittent Delayed trans engagement from stop.

I know there has a been a lot of posts about the 4.6 6 spd transmission.

None of them match (exactly) my symptons so I am not sure what path to take,

08 LTD 4.6L. 67k miles. When I purchased the car in April 2011 with 63k miles, I asked the dealer if TSB 07-23-2 hadn't been done, would they do it before I took bought the car. They said they would. I made the presumption that they did. How can I tell?

The car ran fine, shifted fine for almost a year. Now what happens is (usually when towing) after stopping at a red light or stop sign, as I accelerate to start up again, there is a slight delay (less than a second or so) in engagement of the drive-line. It is similar to as IF there was a LOT of backlash in the rear end, or U joint play in the drive shaft. I know this is not the case, i am just explaining what it feels like from a symptomatic point of view. It is somewhat intermittent in nature but usually happens when it is hot outside while towing my trailer (6000 lbs), but not always. Rarely happens if at all when not towing.

I have not experienced the "2-1 downshift bump" that the TSB talks about at all. That said, I don't know what the term "tip-in" means. Is tip in the delayed engagement that I am feeling ?

I also heard there was yet another TSB for the same issue. 03-3-8. I looked at it and it appears to be the same as the first but with updated code.

My questions are:

1. Is "tip-in" the delay I am experiencing?
2. Will the delay I am experiencing be helped with the new TSB?
3. Will the new TSB last longer than the first one did?
4. Or is there something else wrong with my transmission?

Thanks.

P.../NH
 






ugh... really... i guess i found the problem im having with mine.

Time to stop by a dealer and have them look at it.
 






I know there has a been a lot of posts about the 4.6 6 spd transmission.

None of them match (exactly) my symptons so I am not sure what path to take,

08 LTD 4.6L. 67k miles. When I purchased the car in April 2011 with 63k miles, I asked the dealer if TSB 07-23-2 hadn't been done, would they do it before I took bought the car. They said they would. I made the presumption that they did. How can I tell?

The car ran fine, shifted fine for almost a year. Now what happens is (usually when towing) after stopping at a red light or stop sign, as I accelerate to start up again, there is a slight delay (less than a second or so) in engagement of the drive-line. It is similar to as IF there was a LOT of backlash in the rear end, or U joint play in the drive shaft. I know this is not the case, i am just explaining what it feels like from a symptomatic point of view. It is somewhat intermittent in nature but usually happens when it is hot outside while towing my trailer (6000 lbs), but not always. Rarely happens if at all when not towing.

I have not experienced the "2-1 downshift bump" that the TSB talks about at all. That said, I don't know what the term "tip-in" means. Is tip in the delayed engagement that I am feeling ?

I also heard there was yet another TSB for the same issue. 03-3-8. I looked at it and it appears to be the same as the first but with updated code.

My questions are:

1. Is "tip-in" the delay I am experiencing?
2. Will the delay I am experiencing be helped with the new TSB?
3. Will the new TSB last longer than the first one did?
4. Or is there something else wrong with my transmission?

Thanks.

P.../NH

I have the exact same symptom you describe. I got the TSB done, but it didn't help at all. The only thing is that I have no way of knowing if the dealership did the procedure properly and I don't really trust them.
 






stopped by my dealer today after work. they are going to check it out and do the updates next weekend. Im still under warranty so even if its not the problem im gonna make them fix it anyway they can lol

Ill update everyone after next weekend.
 






stopped by my dealer today after work. they are going to check it out and do the updates next weekend. Im still under warranty so even if its not the problem im gonna make them fix it anyway they can lol

Ill update everyone after next weekend.

Lucky! I wish mine still had the warranty. :D
 






well its been almost 2 weeks now and about 1,000 miles and its a little better in the morning when its cold and much better when its warm. also the Bump when coming to a stop is gone.

Now far as the lag/slipping when coming to a stop and taking off right away again. thats still there.

Some other changes iv notice is it seem they changed the throttle response when first taking off. I have a little more control when trying to take off slow and also seems more sharp/responsive when i jab it quick.
 






Hi. My 07 EB begun with shifting issues more than a year ago, and now is ok, so I want to give my 2 cents:

1) Having in mind the TSB about the issue, the 6R60 TCM was updated, but the issue persisted.

2) Since Ford says the 6R60 is a "sealed" unit, I started to look for a new valve body. IDS software showed P0731, P0741 and P0735 DTC´s, so many, so diverse, at the same time. BTW, I almost get ripped by a guy named Scott Yaslow from Tampa, Fl., he offers rebuilt valve bodies through many ebay scam companies. Even has signed an AVC with Florida´s AG´s office, he keeps scamming with Ford Transmission Parts, Quality Transmission Parts and some other websites.

3) No valve body, shifting issue worstening, I read this thread from Adam06Mount, and found it useful (Thanks buddie, whoever you are!):

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251043&page=2

4) I bought 11 quarts of MERCON SP oil, and a new pan gasket. Prior to draining the trans, I found that the salesman gave me a 5r55 gasket, and he had ran out of 6R60 ones. No gasket, no pan uninstalling.

5) When we started to pump out the oil (hand pump, never "flush"), only pumped less than a quart (¿?). Trans was almost empty!!! Why? I never saw any oil leak below my Ex! Well, at the rear right corner of the pan, I noticed a drop by drop leak which landed over the exhaust pipe cross section, vaporizing almost inmediately and never reaching the floor. The transmission ran empty, drop by drop, along more than a year.

6) Once it was filled up, DTC´s vanished, shifting became softer than ever, no valve body needed. After filling and testing, noticed one leak at the left cooling hose where it attaches to the radiator. D...ng "easy hoses"!!!

Conclusion: First check the oil level, fill if needed. Bought my Ex brand new, dealer services done, never touched trans, and it was leaking!!!

Changed my opinion about 6R60´s, they are very strong units, this one had a hard time and still runs fine. I´m planning to install a better cooling system (hope no "easy hoses"), and, needless to say, an oil pan with drain plug. Seems this units may last a long time with periodic oil changes (Mine has some 50K miles). Dealer says "no flushing", I agree, but "no maintenance" or refill is just an easy way to have customers knocking the door for transmission replacements.

Best regards, hope this help!
 






5) When we started to pump out the oil (hand pump, never "flush"), only pumped less than a quart (¿?). Trans was almost empty!!! Why? I never saw any oil leak below my Ex! Well, at the rear right corner of the pan, I noticed a drop by drop leak which landed over the exhaust pipe cross section, vaporizing almost inmediately and never reaching the floor. The transmission ran empty, drop by drop, along more than a year.

6) Once it was filled up, DTC´s vanished, shifting became softer than ever, no valve body needed. After filling and testing, noticed one leak at the left cooling hose where it attaches to the radiator. D...ng "easy hoses"!!!

Conclusion: First check the oil level, fill if needed. Bought my Ex brand new, dealer services done, never touched trans, and it was leaking!!!

Changed my opinion about 6R60´s, they are very strong units, this one had a hard time and still runs fine. I´m planning to install a better cooling system (hope no "easy hoses"), and, needless to say, an oil pan with drain plug. Seems this units may last a long time with periodic oil changes (Mine has some 50K miles). Dealer says "no flushing", I agree, but "no maintenance" or refill is just an easy way to have customers knocking the door for transmission replacements.

Best regards, hope this help!

This would explain why when I had the fluid changed and no TSB done my bump went away. The dealer did the job so it would not be a surprise if they didn't tell me "it was near empty" as I had an extended warranty.

Not surprising at all. I'll have to get under there and inspect the gasket to confirm it is not still leaking like you mentioned where I may not see it on the ground.
 






Working in the cooling line leak: I´ve found that the right and dependable tool to disconnect the cooling lines is the Lisle 39660 (metallic scissor type). Lost my time with the burgundy plastic Lisle and, didn´t want to try OTC white ones, identical to Ford 307-569, because they seemed to be too fragile and were a way more expensive than the metal tool.

The cooling line showed polished zones at the tip, where it contacts the coupler o-ring, which means friction and wearing. This (Left side) cooling line is a complete unit which includes both main lines coming from the transmission assembly. The right one is shorter and connects to the trans cooling radiator.

Not sure if I fixed the leak. Time will tell. Wrapped some duct tape at the line tip, to make a thicker surface to contact the coupler o-ring. Duct tape doesn´t cover the line crimp. Not leaking after one hour, but still not sure.
 






Duct tape at the line tip didn´t work (Curious thing, I believe that some day duct tape will save the life on earth, don´t know how), the next day it started to leak oil.

My new attempt has been to extract the coupling gray o-ring, which appears to be too thin, and replace it with a little thicker one. It´s easy, just pull out gently the old one (Did it with my swiss knife) making it incline towards you, and once is out then start to insert the new one pushing it around its borders, just a question of patience.

O-ring and line were oiled, and carefully started to push the line into the coupling with a slight round movement, to avoid cutting the o-ring. After some slight resistance, the line took its position.

No leak until now, hope it stays that way. If it doesn´t work, I already have two 3/8 NPT-1/2 hose fittings, clamps, 1/2 hoses and taper drill to convert it to something more dependable. Lol.
 






More than a month later, new o ring did its work. No oil leaks. Trans works fine. IMHO, problem was solved.

Conclusions:

1) When transmission starts bumping, FIRST check oil level and leaks, specially at the pan section above the exhaust pipe cross section.

2) If oil level is low, seal any leak and refill. Test drive.

3) Oil leak at cooling lines connections at radiator couplings may be solved changing the internal coupling o ring.

4) The best tool for cooling lines disconnection is Lisle 39660 (metalic scissors type).

5) If with right oil level and no leaks bump is still present, THEN update A/T´s software and diagnose with Ford IDS.

Best regards
 












More than a month later, new o ring did its work. No oil leaks. Trans works fine. IMHO, problem was solved.

Conclusions:

1) When transmission starts bumping, FIRST check oil level and leaks, specially at the pan section above the exhaust pipe cross section.

2) If oil level is low, seal any leak and refill. Test drive.

3) Oil leak at cooling lines connections at radiator couplings may be solved changing the internal coupling o ring.

4) The best tool for cooling lines disconnection is Lisle 39660 (metalic scissors type).

5) If with right oil level and no leaks bump is still present, THEN update A/T´s software and diagnose with Ford IDS.

Best regards


What is the proper method to check the trans oil level? Engine on, trans in park?
 



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Anyone know if this a problem on the 2010 models? I had this problem on my '08 and had it flashed at a dealership, and that seemed to help. But then I bought a tuner from Henson when I flashed it, that brought the bump back. Now I have a 2010 and would like to buy a tuner kit for it, but don't want the bump
 






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