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2007 4.0 SOHC Not running right after complete timing job. Starts and dies .

Discussion in 'Under the Hood' started by Mikeorci, November 3, 2018.

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    1. Mikeorci

      Mikeorci New Member

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      Spent the past week doing a timing job both sides 2007 Explorer 4.0 SOHC . After I triple checked everything, it's not running right. It'l start up one time and run for as long as I press the gas when I let up, it dies and won't start again for an hour or two. I have the special tool to hold the main crank and the overhead cams in the correct position so I don't know why the timing would be off? I hate the thought of taking the engine out again .... the only thing I can think of is that the final time I set the crank at TDC for Cylinder no. 1, I did not hook up my homemade hollowed out spark plug with a rubber glove on the end which inflates like a ballon indicating the piston is in the compression stroke. Is it likely that the piston was at bottom dead center even though the keyway in the crank was at high noon when the two cams were set? Any way to test that theory before removing the engine a g a i n arg!
       
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    3. roscoe 0202

      roscoe 0202 Elite Explorer

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      I don't think it could be at bottom dead center but it could've been in top center in valve overlap
      roscoe
       
    4. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      As long as the keyway is up and the tool is on the balancer against the block edge near oil pan it's set right. Then the cams get timed 1 at a time starting with the passenger side then driver.

      Since most of it is pressure torqued I'd check your compression before running it any longer. If you have the special tool kit for timing you can re time the engine in the truck.
       
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    5. Mikeorci

      Mikeorci New Member

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      Since most of it is pressure torqued I'd check your compression before running it any longer. If you have the special toolkit for timing you can retime the engine in the truck.[/QUOTE]

      While it is still in the vehicle? All right. Learning that just energized me to go in the garage and start pulling parts off the top to get to the valve covers. I pray I can reach what I need to reach. Perhaps that strange part in the special toolkit that looks like a small socket is welded to a bent piece of iron is what I need to tighten the left-handed threaded RS Cam while anothe4r piece attached to the front, which has plenty of room to work and no firewall.

      I intend to use used torque to yield bolts, will that mess me up down the road? Also, if using the existing torque to yield bolts, is there a lbs/f target for me to torque to or repeat the 35 lbs/ft plus the additional x degrees? Your comments on this will be helpful. Here I go, its gonna be a late greasy night for me. . Thanks again.
       
    6. Mbrooks420

      Mbrooks420 High Voltage. Elite Explorer

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      Torque to yield bolts are a one time use. Once tightened (and stretched) and removed, they get tossed, even if only in for a day.

      Positive you didn’t miss a vacuum leak?
       
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    7. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      Yes you can re time the engine without removing it. You can check the timing by a compression test or removing valve covers, setting the crank to TDC and looking at the slots at the end of the cams. The slots should be parallel to the head plane.
       
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    8. boominXplorer

      boominXplorer Elite Ranger Elite Explorer

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      The only torque to yeild bolts are crank pulley and both jackshaft bolts. The cam gear bolts are not torque to yeild.
       
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    9. Mikeorci

      Mikeorci New Member

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      Well, I decided to check the timing by pulling the valve covers, because I don't know how to do it by checking compression. Low and behold i pulled the passenger side cover only to learn that both the cam was in the exact position it needs to be when in when the crank pully 's keyway is at high noon. I thought it too much of a coincidence but I happened to start the job, unaware, everything is exactly where it needs to be. After pulling the other valve cover it looked perfect on that side as well, is so much as the cam was in the exact correct place like the L side and the crank pulley. Before I remove the valve covers I'll check my Haynes book and get the correct torque for the cam gear bolts. Next, I'll go to Harbor Freight in the morning to purchase a compression checking kit that looks like a gauge, a rubber hose and an adaptor which screws in the spark plug hole. The other day I hollowed out a spark plug for some reason. Do you think I could use one of the gauges from my AC checking kit if I can attach say the low-pressure gauge (with a good seal) to the hollowed out spark plug thereby creating a reading on the low-pressure gauge? Will that work? By the way, I really appreciate your sticking with me during my project. A couple of cold ones are on me next time you get to Vegas.
       
    10. Mikeorci

      Mikeorci New Member

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    11. Mikeorci

      Mikeorci New Member

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      Compression is zero in cylinders 2 and 3. Also, I checked 2 with a plug in 3 and 3 with a plug in 2. Still nothing.
       
    12. Mbrooks420

      Mbrooks420 High Voltage. Elite Explorer

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      Why did you change the timing chain? Did it quit running before changing it?
       
    13. 974X4BLACKSPORT

      974X4BLACKSPORT Active Member

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      Is it possible that one of the camshafts are out of phase (time) 180 degrees?
       
    14. roscoe 0202

      roscoe 0202 Elite Explorer

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      sounds like a head gasket to me
      roscoe
       

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