Reacher70
New Member
- Joined
- April 28, 2018
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Klamath Falls, OR
- City, State
- Klamath Falls, OR
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2007 Explorer XLT
Ok, Guys, I am ready to take this truck down to the river and toss a match inside. I'll give you a list of what I've done and the end result and hopefully, someone can point me in the direction to go next.
07 4X4 XLT 4.0L with 199k,
The engine started missing and throwing misfire codes in #4 cylinder. I pulled the plug and it was fouled up pretty well so I went ahead and replaced plugs wires and coil pack. I figured that they were all probably overdue. It ran great for about 1k miles then started to give me a check engine light with bank 1 O2 rich codes. I cleared the codes and would drive it for another thousand miles or so until the code came back after doing this a few times I decided that I should just go ahead and replace the 02 sensors. Doing this cleared up that issue and the vehicle was great for about 5k miles, this is when all hell broke loose.
I have aftermarket seat heaters that are controlled by a toggle switch, they were wired to a constant power source and I've been pretty diligent about shutting them off, however, one day I forgot and they were left on overnight and the drained the battery dead. I went out to start the car the next morning and realized that the dome light didn't come on and when I tried the key nothing. The battery was completely dead >9 volts if I remember correctly, I fast charged it with my battery charger, using the boost feature and had it fired up in about 5 minutes.
I found out right then that the TPS system loses its settings when the battery is dead, I searched forever trying to find out to to reset the tps and finally found a thread on a focus forum that instructed me to turn the key on, slowly depress the throttle until WOT is reached and then slowly release it, turn the key off, turn the key on reset the SC2110 (or whichever it is, TPS stuck open and TPS stuck closed odes) This seemed to fix the throttle issue but the car would not idle, I found a video showing that you let it idle for 10 minutes, then turn the Ac on for anohter 10 Minutes, then put it is drive with the AC off for 5 minutes then again in D with the AC on for 5 minutes. The problem with this was the thing would not idle for 10 minutes without dying.
I researched some more and thought maybe I messed up my TPS sensor with the fast charge so I replaced that and wouldn't you know it has the same issue, this time however when I go to drive it, when you accelerate from a dead stop it bucks hard, sputters, throws the service wrench and gives me a code of P0061B.
This code is a torque vector calculation error code and everything I can find is that it is faulty MAF, a faulty throttle step motor, or a faulty MAF harness, TPM Harness, TPS Harness or the CAN harness. I have replaced everything except the CAN harness and I still have this issue.
On a side note once you get it moving if you put it in N, turn off the ignition, restart it and resume from 10 MPH or higher the thing runs great. It just runs like a complete bucket of crap if you come to a stop or try to accelerate from a stop.
As a last resort, I took it into the dealer and had the PCM updated thinking maybe something was wrong with the way it communicated with one of the sensors I replaced. If anything this made it worse.
What am I overlooking here guys, I am ready to trade this one in, but lord have mercy I can't take it in like this.
Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Thanks again,
Frustrated in Southern Oregon
07 4X4 XLT 4.0L with 199k,
The engine started missing and throwing misfire codes in #4 cylinder. I pulled the plug and it was fouled up pretty well so I went ahead and replaced plugs wires and coil pack. I figured that they were all probably overdue. It ran great for about 1k miles then started to give me a check engine light with bank 1 O2 rich codes. I cleared the codes and would drive it for another thousand miles or so until the code came back after doing this a few times I decided that I should just go ahead and replace the 02 sensors. Doing this cleared up that issue and the vehicle was great for about 5k miles, this is when all hell broke loose.
I have aftermarket seat heaters that are controlled by a toggle switch, they were wired to a constant power source and I've been pretty diligent about shutting them off, however, one day I forgot and they were left on overnight and the drained the battery dead. I went out to start the car the next morning and realized that the dome light didn't come on and when I tried the key nothing. The battery was completely dead >9 volts if I remember correctly, I fast charged it with my battery charger, using the boost feature and had it fired up in about 5 minutes.
I found out right then that the TPS system loses its settings when the battery is dead, I searched forever trying to find out to to reset the tps and finally found a thread on a focus forum that instructed me to turn the key on, slowly depress the throttle until WOT is reached and then slowly release it, turn the key off, turn the key on reset the SC2110 (or whichever it is, TPS stuck open and TPS stuck closed odes) This seemed to fix the throttle issue but the car would not idle, I found a video showing that you let it idle for 10 minutes, then turn the Ac on for anohter 10 Minutes, then put it is drive with the AC off for 5 minutes then again in D with the AC on for 5 minutes. The problem with this was the thing would not idle for 10 minutes without dying.
I researched some more and thought maybe I messed up my TPS sensor with the fast charge so I replaced that and wouldn't you know it has the same issue, this time however when I go to drive it, when you accelerate from a dead stop it bucks hard, sputters, throws the service wrench and gives me a code of P0061B.
This code is a torque vector calculation error code and everything I can find is that it is faulty MAF, a faulty throttle step motor, or a faulty MAF harness, TPM Harness, TPS Harness or the CAN harness. I have replaced everything except the CAN harness and I still have this issue.
On a side note once you get it moving if you put it in N, turn off the ignition, restart it and resume from 10 MPH or higher the thing runs great. It just runs like a complete bucket of crap if you come to a stop or try to accelerate from a stop.
As a last resort, I took it into the dealer and had the PCM updated thinking maybe something was wrong with the way it communicated with one of the sensors I replaced. If anything this made it worse.
What am I overlooking here guys, I am ready to trade this one in, but lord have mercy I can't take it in like this.
Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Thanks again,
Frustrated in Southern Oregon