2008 Ford Explorer XLT

[Patricia McCluskey]

I'm racking my brain trying to figure out why my Explorer suddenly won't start. I started it to back it up to get my other vehicle out of the garage, four days later it wouldn't start. I was told it was the starter so that got changed out, but still having the same problem. The dome lights light, door locks work, radio etc. The problem I'm having is when I turn the key I hear a click, but it won't start, and I lose power to the interior lights, etc. I let it sit for awhile, and the lights work again, but when I try to start it, same problem. I checked the fuse for the ignition switch, but it isn't blown. What could be going on?

 

[imp]

I'm racking my brain trying to figure out why my Explorer suddenly won't start. I started it to back it up to get my other vehicle out of the garage, four days later it wouldn't start. I was told it was the starter so that got changed out, but still having the same problem. The dome lights light, door locks work, radio etc. The problem I'm having is when I turn the key I hear a click, but it won't start, and I lose power to the interior lights, etc. I let it sit for awhile, and the lights work again, but when I try to start it, same problem. I checked the fuse for the ignition switch, but it isn't blown. What could be going on?

@Patricia McCluskey
Start with the battery terminals. Remove them and look for discoloration inside the cable ends as well as on the battery posts. Those connections must be bright and clean. If they are not, clean them with a rat tail file inside, and sandpaper around the posts. I've seen bad terminals which carried enough current to light headlights, but when key turned to start, solenoid clicked, no start, the power was being eaten by the bad terminals. Failing in getting cure:

Go to starter motor. If you can remove it, most parts stores can test it for you. Can be done
yourself if mechanically inclined. Hope this helps. imp

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

@Patricia McCluskey
Start with the battery terminals. Remove them and look for discoloration inside the cable ends as well as on the battery posts. Those connections must be bright and clean. If they are not, clean them with a rat tail file inside, and sandpaper around the posts. I've seen bad terminals which carried enough current to light headlights, but when key turned to start, solenoid clicked, no start, the power was being eaten by the bad terminals. Failing in getting cure:

Go to starter motor. If you can remove it, most parts stores can test it for you. Can be done
yourself if mechanically inclined. Hope this helps. imp

Battery cables are clean, and the battery is less than a year old. I was told it could be a bad ground wire, but I still think that it might be the ignition switch is bad. The key got stuck in the ignition a couple of times, the steering wheel was locked, and the vehicle was in park. I restarted it, shut it off, and the came came out. The starter is new, but there might be a chance that I got a bad starter. Thank you for your help. I do appreciate it.

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

Battery posts are clean, the battery is less than a year old. The key got stuck in the ignition a couple of times, but the steering wheel was locked, and the vehicle was in park. I restarted it and the key came out. I still think it could be the ignition switch that's shorting out. I was told that it's a bad ground wire. I know that the starter is new, but I also know that you can get a bad starter. Thank you for your input, I really do appreciate it.

 

[Explorer_PL]

You need to check if you getting 12v on the 87 side of the starter relay (or 30 side) when you attempt to start with the key.
I'd concentrate on that. There are 4 posts: 85, 86, 87, and 30.

85 to 86 should close when you crank the key, if that works your ignition is ok.
See if you can jump 87 and 30 with a wire to see if the starter reacts, if both above checks out, then it's the relay most likely.

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

Thank you for your help. Right now I'm getting ready to call the dealership that I bought it from, seeing that I haven't even had it for 90 days, and see what they might do for me. Heck it was less than 60 days when it wouldn't start. I have someone coming over to check it out this weekend, and I'll pass the info that you provided on to him.

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

08' Explorer still not running. I was told again that it could be a bad battery connection. HELP!

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

Went out and plugged in a code monitor, and turned on the ignition, but I couldn't start the vehicle. No codes came up, but I noticed on the dash display it said check charging system. Is the problem possibly the alternator. The starter has been changed already, but the vehicle still won't start.

 

[07EddyB]

Have you tried to jump it? If it starts then you need a new battery. Do you have a charger? Hook it up for a bit and then try.

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

Have you tried to jump it? If it starts then you need a new battery. Do you have a charger? Hook it up for a bit and then try.

We have tried to jump start it, but it still won't start. Voltage meter reads 12.1 for the battery.

 

[67FordGuy]

In your original post you said: I started it to back it up to get my other vehicle out of the garage, four days later it wouldn't start.

I know this may sound simple on my part, but did you put it back in Park? Try moving the shifter back and forth and put it in park.

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

I've tried everything. It was definitely in park though. When I tried to start it I heard a click and then nothing. Changed the starter, still won't start. Tried jumping it, won't start. I was told that I could have gotten a bad starter. All I can say is that it's driving me crazy.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Patricia-
you really need to check the voltage at the relay posts, and see if you can jump it.
Do you have a friend with some knowledge about cars ? It may be very simple issue.

 

[dacaur2]

We have tried to jump start it, but it still won't start. Voltage meter reads 12.1 for the battery.

12.1 is a dead battery.... Should be 12.6 when its just sitting there... Make sure the jumping vehicle is running, let it sit connected for 5 min or so before you try to start it.

 

[beauboy]

I've had this exact same problem with my older Exp. Every time, although it seemed like the battery, it turned out to be the Neg battery cable clamp. If yours is not the factory clamp, I'd suspect it, as imp originally pointed to.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Step 1, load test the battery. once you get back to us with results I will move on to step 2.

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

Step 1, load test the battery. once you get back to us with results I will move on to step 2.

Load test done with voltage meter showing 12.16. Where to next?

 

[Tech By Trade]

Load test isn't done with a voltage meter, its done with a load tester. If you dont have one, take it to an auto parts store and they will load test the battery.

 

[Patricia McCluskey]

Load test done with voltage meter showing 12.16. Where to next?

Used a multi-meter to test battery.

 

[Tech By Trade]

If you insist on using the wrong tool to test, at least hook up the multi-meter and take the reading when you are trying to crank the engine and report back the voltage drop. It wont be correct, but if it doesn't drop out it tells you the starter is not trying to draw current when it should be when the key is turned. It will not tell you if the battery is NFG or not. To do that you need to load test it.