2013 Limited Ex not receiving fob signals. HELP!!!!

[koeniky]

I bought a wrecked 2013 Limited. Everything is fixed and ready to go but I have never been able to get the vehicle to pick up a signal. Batteries were replaced, no chargers plugged it, etc. I have spent over $200 at ford for them to literally tell me they have no idea what's going on. I have replaced the module under the center console cubby. No dice. The only function my fobs have are starting the car in the emergency slot. I was told there is a module network that a few modules use to communicate and a tire pressure module is not receiving a signal, which I replaced and they said it still wasn't working. Can anyone please give me insight as to what my problem can be. I have no idea why the fobs wouldn't work after a wreck. I feel helpless as I know more about my vehicle than my local techs at Ford.

 

[jmr061]

Still no replies to this so I will say a little. From the description your vehicle is using the IA (intelligent access system). The intelligent access system has many aspects to it. It sounds like the system is completely dead. Are you still having issues? I would think the dealer would have been able to diagnose the system but apparently not. Did they pull any error codes? There should be a step by step diagnostics chart in the service manual.

You said this was a wrecked vehicle...did any of the electronics get replaced?

 

[koeniky]

Thanks for the reply.

Well. The dealer told me their computer was telling them they cannot communicate with the TPM (tire pressure module) and the RFA (remote function actuator) is able to communicate with their computer but the network between the modules isn't working. I replaced a module underneath the center console cubby (which they told me was the TPSM) but they said it still wasn't working. Because of the wreck we replaced 3 bags (steering wheel bag, seat side bag, and drivers curtain bag) clock spring, seat belt, front bumper, and cleared SRS module. The problem just seems so weird because there doesn't seem to be anything that would cause the problem beside that damaged module under the cubby. I am able to use the number code pad and the electronic locks are working, my car is just not receiving the signal. My car starts when either one of my keys are in the emergency slot. No fucntion beyond that.

Just a side note, but we also had a problem with the occupation classification sensor on passenger seat but we eventually got the light to shut off by zeroing it out and resetting it via diagnostic tool.

 

[koeniky]

And sorry. Only code Ford gave me was U201F:31.

And the module under the cubby has two plug ins. The gray slot was never plugged in, as I read on the web that the gray slot is an optional antenna slot? Ford had no idea what the gray slot was for.

 

[jmr061]

U201F:31 External Receiver: No Signal An on-demand DTC set by the RFA module when the RFA module has lost communication with the TPM module.

Since the dealer indicated IDS can't communicate with the TPM this makes sense. I would make sure there is power and ground at the TPM. If those are good the CAN BUS wiring to the TPM may be damaged.

 

[koeniky]

First of all, thank you for having a conversation with me about this problem.

Ok. So. The TPM has one plug that goes into it which I believe is an 8 pin plug in. So do those 8 wires on the plug include both connections to the RFA and the CAN BUS?

And, how does one check to make sure there is power getting to the the TMP through the plug? The pin holes are so small that we can t even get the tester points to get any reading on the voltmeter.

 

[jmr061]

PM me your email and I can send the pinout.

 

[koeniky]

Ok. I did some adjusting and then took my ex on the highway for the first time. After getting to speeds of 70 for a while a message "tire pressure monitor fault" came on. We added air and light stayed on. Let the vehicle sit and replaced TPM. I started the car and new message came on " Tire pressure sensor fault".
Drove it for about 5 minutes. No change.

Let it sit for 1 day, started it and no lights, took it on highway for 15 minutes. Still no light. Good to go.

So my question is, is my TPM module now communicating since I got those codes?

And do I need to do master reset of MFT once I think my TPM might be communicating?

In regard to getting my keyless entry to work? Both keys are programmed to the vehicle.

 

[jmr061]

Did you do the testing I suggested?

 

[koeniky]

Yes. No luck. I have decided I will have a local audio shop install an Excalibur system to bypass all of my stock keyless entry and remote start. I'm done shoveling money in Fords useless hands.

Along that line, instead of having to carry to extra key fob around to stick in the emergency slot to start it, is there any problems I would encounter by leaving the fob in the emergency slot at all times?

 

[jmr061]

So the TPM has correct/good power and ground and the CAN bus lines checked ok? Its the dealer that you have been paying, not Ford. You could try another dealer or someone else who is more in tune with how systems like that operate. Leaving the key in vehicle means someone could break in and drive away with your vehicle.

 

[koeniky]

12 volts for the power lines and 3 ohms for the module tested right?

 

[peterk9]

Along that line, instead of having to carry to extra key fob around to stick in the emergency slot to start it, is there any problems I would encounter by leaving the fob in the emergency slot at all times?

The only thing that comes to mind is that you will have to use the 7*8, 9*0 keys on the Securicode keypad to lock the vehicle with a key inside. The key is supposed to 'deactivate' after about 20 seconds once the vehicle alarm system activates. To activate it again, the 'Unlock' button on the fob must be pressed so I'm not sure what will happen once you then unlock the vehicle if you are relying on the key in the slot to start the vehicle since that key theoretically is 'deactivated'.

Peter

 

[jmr061]

I don't have the service manual in front of me but if it were me for testing the TPM, I would check for voltage with the TPM hooked up probing power and ground with the vehicle turned off. Then check the same with the TPM disconnected. You should see little to no difference between the two readings. For the CAN bus lines I would pull negative battery cable and let the vehicle sit for 15 minutes then check for continuity of the can bus lines between the TPM and another network device on the same network...probably the RFA. I would suggest getting access to the service manual. The official testing process is located in the manual.

 

[koeniky]

Ok. So I pulled the panel back off and I was examining the pigtail that contains connectors for the TPM and what appears to be a 2 wire antenna connector. And FYI my TPM connector has 5 wires, not 4 as the diamgram I got earlier showed. Anyways, I could not get a hot reading on either connectors in that pigtail. Other wires (rear climate and power plug ins) got a hot reading. I followed the wires back a bit and it looks like the potentially problematic pigtail is bundled in with other wires that look like the run to into a massive connector on the passenger side near the front , with maybe 50 or so wires.

In your guys opinions, am I onto finding a problem?

 

[koeniky]

I guess I'm just going to get a new connector and cut the old one off and reconnect the new connector. Beyond that, I don't know what else to do beyond replacing the entire harness which I can't afford to do.

 

[sheltonfilms]

I guess I'm just going to get a new connector and cut the old one off and reconnect the new connector. Beyond that, I don't know what else to do beyond replacing the entire harness which I can't afford to do.

Get it figured out?

 

[koeniky]

Get it figured out?

Nope. Had someone try to install an aftermarket bypass keyless entry. Got everything to work besides the autostart. He worked on it for 6 hours and he said there is a problem with the wiring.

It was wrecked on the front left side. Radiator had to be replaced and fog light and ambient temperature harnesses were ripped off. Not sure if that would cause the problem, but I have no more ideas besides going to the obvious which is where the vechile was damaged. Would damage to any harnesses on the front left side cause the car to have a defective remote keyless entry system?

 

[sheltonfilms]

Let me make sure I got everything right:

What works and what doesn't?

Remote unlock/lock (?)
Remote start (?)
5 digit keypad (works)
Keyless push button starting. (doesn't work)
Key in console starting. (Works)

Haven't seen where the first two are mentioned.

 

[koeniky]

Let me make sure I got everything right:

What works and what doesn't?

Remote unlock/lock (?)
Remote start (?)
5 digit keypad (works)
Keyless push button starting. (doesn't work)
Key in console starting. (Works)

Haven't seen where the first two are mentioned.

Sorry

Before the bypass:

The 5 digit keypad works.
Push button starts
Fob in emergency slot allows it to start.

Intelligent Acess on door handles does not work. No key fob actions work including remote start.

After Bypass:

Aftermarket fobs work including Lock/unlock and trunk hatch. Remote start will not work unless car is in Acessory Mode ( which defeats the purpose).

I have to leave the original key fob in emergency slot at all times to avoid entering my console every time I want to start the vehicle. Which leaves me having to lock the doors with the 7-8 9-0 keys because the car recognizes the fob in the emergency slot and won't let me lock my doors with my aftermarket fob. It auto unlocks.

Even though I have a bypass system,
I am still frustrated because the hoops I have to jump through to simply lock/unlock and start my vehicle. I would like to find the original problem to be able to use my factory IA system.

Thank you very much for your input. It's a weird problem and very frustrating.