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List of Useful Threads 3.5L Water pump replacement - Gotchya's

Discussion in 'Stock 2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer Discussion' started by mcpcartier, June 27, 2018.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. mcpcartier

    mcpcartier New Member

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    When I have some more time I'll try to add other information, but figured I'd share some of the mistakes/thoughts from replacing the water pump last weekend.

    BTW....I have a 2013 Limited with a 3.5L Naturally Aspirated

    First off....I referenced the online video's by Robinson Auto (he did a flex) and Makuloco (F-150) extensively....those were invaluable. Even with those I managed to make several key mistakes.

    1. Main chain guide's (black)
    ----- These are installed right above the water pump. The mounting bolt for one of these is shadowed by one of the phasers. Make sure you mount those BEFORE you mount the phasers. The phaser bolts are torque to yield so if you need to take a phaser out to install the guide you need new phaser bolts.

    2. Timing Chain Cover bolts (15mm bolts in the center of the cover)
    ----- Two (2) of the 15mm bolts cannot fit between the frame and the cover (at least for my 2013 NA explorer). They must be in placed in the cover before dropping the cover into place. Or you get the joy of taking it back out and re-doing the RTV etc...

    3. Secondary Chain Tensioner Activation
    --- The melling BT7008 tensioners MUST BE manually activated. This mean nothing happens when you pull out the blue tab. I mistakenly thought that released them so they're ready to go....NOPE....what that tab does is make sure you can't inadvertently activate them by pushing the piston in by accident. Once you have it mounted remove the tab. Then install the phasers and secondary chain. After everything's in place push that piston in until you hear a click and release. The tensioner will push up on the chain like you expect. If you forget to do this you get to take your valve covers off again and do it....ask me how I know. You do have to push hard....I used a piece of wood because my whimpy hands couldn't take the pressure.

    4. Crank Pulley Puller
    ---- find the one recommended in the video's (i can't recall)...but it's tiny (narrow). The puller I borrowed from O'Reilly wouldn't fit inside the crank pulley.

    I didn't evac the AC....that would have made putting in the timing cover easier....but it's totally doable without touching the AC.

    I thought i did a great job of blocking the top of the oil pan before removing the water pump...still had about a liter of coolant end up in there. Don't know how you can avoid that.
     
    Last edited: June 27, 2018
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  3. Sixonemale

    Sixonemale Active Member

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    Not that I will ever attempt this myself, but nice write-up. What made you decide to replace your water pump, was it leaking or did you do it as preventative maintenance? Also, how many miles were on the engine/water pump? Was your replacement pump identical to the one you took off or next generation? I've seen two different pumps in this forum, but can't recall what year they changed the design slightly. Thanks
     
  4. mcpcartier

    mcpcartier New Member

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    I have 118k on mine. The original water pump was leaking out the weep hole, so I had coolant dripping out over my alternator. The water pump I took out had a single gasket so I got very lucky. The gasket failed into the weep hole area...what are the odds. I had nothing going into my oil. I bought the ac delco for replacement. It has concentric gaskets so no matter where the first gasket fails there is a path to the weep hole over the alternator. So the second I see a leak there I know i'm on borrowed time (unless the exterior gasket fails first...never really thought of that...then coolant would be in the oil and the weep hole).

    Edit

    Put a picture of the water pumps in a different thread....post #537...click on this link

    Water pump failure leads to dead engine
     
    Last edited: August 31, 2018
  5. Sixonemale

    Sixonemale Active Member

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    Excellent response, thanks. A couple of more questions, when you replaced the water pump, I assume you did it with the engine in place or did you pull the engine? About how long did it take you, again assuming you took your time. Lastly, how did the timing chain and it's guides look? Thanks again
     
    Last edited: June 28, 2018
  6. mcpcartier

    mcpcartier New Member

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    I did not pull the engine...just squeezed the timing chain cover up between the frame and the engine.

    The chain/guides all looked fantastic...no issues. I replaced them because I'm hoping to get 100k miles on this water pump and didn't want to open this up again between now and then to do the chains.

    Time...well...it took me about 20 hours. I have quite a bit of hands on experience but mostly working on my GTI and A4 (quattro). I've replaced several timing belts, cam chains, and clutches on those. I also recently (about 1 1/2 months ago) rebuilt the PTU on the explorer. I didn't enjoy that job, too much working on my back in the driveway but decided that we're going to keep this for a while and I wanted to clean it out and put in a drain plug.

    Next time would be way faster. For example...when I started on a Friday evening it took me 2 1/2 hours to get the intake and the front valve cover off. I didn't know what was connected to what, where the harnesses ran, and had to fight to break the cover free. When I opened it up to fix my secondary tensioners it took me 2 1/2 hours to pull off the intake, both valve covers, fix the tensionsers, and put it all back together. That's about 4 times as much work in the same amount of time. Experience is one thing...but experience working on a specific vehicle is what counts.
     
  7. Sixonemale

    Sixonemale Active Member

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    Thanks again for the responses. One last question, you are obviously very mechanically inclined, so the question is what made you notice that coolant was leaking? Was it because you saw coolant on the ground? Was it due to your checking under the hood occasionally? Did the engine get hotter than normal and trigger a check engine light? Did your temp gauge go up, if you had it displayed? Etc. Thanks
     
    Last edited: June 28, 2018
  8. mcpcartier

    mcpcartier New Member

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    Initial discovery was a small wet area under the alternator in the driveway. Took a look and it was dex-cool...orange coolant on the alternator. Took a look online and saw videos about the water pump weep hole exits over the alternator so if you have a leak there it's time to change your water pump. Filled up the coolant with distilled water and drove it for another 50 miles or so to get to the weekend. After that 50 miles every time it was parked there was a steady stream of water leaking out...it was getting bad. Had no other indications.....I check my oil/coolant levels all the time....oil never had any indication of coolant in it. By topping off the coolant the engine never over heated. Kept the display on engine temp and had a jug of distilled water in the back to keep it full until I changed it.
     
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  9. Sixonemale

    Sixonemale Active Member

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    Thanks again and pretty much what I expected. You are a very mechanically inclined individual who has replaced a water pump, not an easy task by any stretch. If it had been during the winter rainy season, or if it leaked in a parking lot toward the passenger side, or if an owner not mechanically inclined dismissed the wet area, the result could have been an overheated or maybe even a seized engine if the coolant was leaking internally into the oil. It sure seems like some sort of sensor on the coolant reservoir tank would be extremely helpful to all fifth generation Explorer owners. This sensor would trigger a check engine light with code and should be extreme in color and brightness due to the importance of what is occurring. After all it is a closed system and no fluid should be escaping.
     
    Last edited: June 29, 2018
  10. JoeMcc

    JoeMcc New Member

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    A couple of quick questions on replacing the water pump and timing chains. I have all my parts and waiting for the cam tools. First did you support the front of the engine after removing the mount, and do you have to take off the phaser to replace the main guide if i'm not replacing the secondary chains.
     
  11. mcpcartier

    mcpcartier New Member

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    I just used a jack with a piece of wood on it under the oil pan to hold it up...worked fine.

    So here is the problem. See the black guides for the main chain in the pic below....they go over the waterpump so you need to remove them to get the pump out. But only one of them can be removed without removing a phaser....I put a note there "bolt shadowed by phaser"...but I can't seem to remember if it was that one or the other one I couldn't remove with the phaser in place....but for sure you'll need to remove one of the intake phasers. Those phaser bolts are TTY....so you'll need a replacement intake phaser bolt which is p/n AT4Z6279D. I got mine on ebay for a good price.. If you decide to pull the exhaust phaser you'll need the longer bolt which is p/n AT4Z6279E. I pulled all my phasers so I needed two of each of those parts.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: August 31, 2018
  12. mcpcartier

    mcpcartier New Member

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    So my comment in RED is wrong.....that silver shaft you see in the middle of the red circle is the pivot the guide slides over and just below that you'll see the grey bolt that holds it in place. I believe once you remove that bolt you can slide the guide out from its pivot shaft no problem. But part of the other guide (the one not circled in red) is behind the phaser. You can remove the mounting bolt (grey bolt just below the phaser) but you can't pull the guide out over its pivot shaft because the phaser is in the way. You have to remove the phaser so you can slide the guide off of its pivot arm (silver shaft in the middle of the black).
     
  13. sheltonfilms

    sheltonfilms Active Member

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    Be nice to know what the hell is going on with the concentric vs single gaskets. Seems like the 11-12 Explorers had two orings, then during 2012 production they switch to a single piece oring. Then there was another change (unknown) for the 2016+ models.
     
  14. JoeMcc

    JoeMcc New Member

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    Thank you, that helps a lot. From looking at other pictures it looked like i could unbolt it and slide it out.
     
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